





_ 








mek A V ELS 


THROUGH THE 


INTERIOR PARTS OF AMERICA 


IN TWO VOLUMES 


VOLUME I 


FIVE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY-FIVE COPIES OF THIS 
EDITION WERE PRINTED AT THE RIVERSIDE PRESS 
IN CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS, U.S.A., IN SEP- 
TEMBER, 1923, OF WHICH FIVE HUNDRED AND 


TWENTY-FIVE ARE TO BE SOLD. 


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tee A V E LS 


THROUGH THE 
INTERIOR PARTS 


OF 


oe | UCR U6&Ed OC. A 


BY 
THOMAS ANBUREY 


LIEUTENANT IN THE ARMY OF GENERAL BURGOYNE 


| WITH A FOREWORD BY 
MAJOR-GENERAL WILLIAM HARDING CARTER 


VOLUME I 





BOSTON AND NEW YORK 
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY 
The Riverside Press Cambridge 


1923 





FOREWORD 


EVERAL years ago while delving in Virginia 

history, I found in the Library of Congress 
“Travels through the Interior Parts of: America. 
By an Officer.” Upon examining the work I was 
amazed to find it embraced in a series of letters an 
intimate and detailed account of Burgoyne’s ex- 
pedition, including the experiences of the captured 
British and Hessian soldiers during their march 
to Boston, and thence to Charlottesville, Virginia, 
where they were held as prisoners of war until 
the close of hostilities. The author, Lieutenant 
Thomas Anburey, recorded his observations of 
Canadians, Indians, and Americans in turn, and 
his impressions make most interesting reading 
nearly a century and a half later. 

Considering that Lieutenant Anburey had been 
trained for the Army, it is remarkable how cleverly 
he appraised America, its forests, lands, animals, 
game, fruits, and foods, its roads, or lack of roads, 
and the qualities and habits of its people. His pen 
has preserved for us, in fascinating detail, the per- 
sonal observations and incidents of the writer’s 
travels on foot for more than a thousand miles 
from Montreal to Virginia. 

Lieutenant Anburey’s book first appeared in 
England in 1789. A French translation was pub- 


v1 FOREWORD 


lished in France in 1790, and republished in 1792 
and in 1793 with very definite reference to the 
disaster incident to paper-money issues. A Ger- 
man translation was published in Berlin in 1792. 
In those days it was regarded as a mine of cur- 
rent information. Now, after lying dormant for 
considerably more than a century, it has been re- 
discovered, as 1t were, and presents us with a vivid 
picture of America in Revolutionary days. The 
republication of Lieutenant Anburey’s letters 
should be welcomed by all students of early 
American history. 
WILLIAM Harpinc CarTER, 
Major-General United States Army. 


ARR Te A0SS Shae Wiehe 
THROUGH THE 


INTERIOR PARTS OF AMERICA 
IN A 7 | 
SERIES OF LETTERS 


BY AN OFFICER 


IN TWO VOLUMES 


‘5 A , a 
Ti ovv, av Tis elrot, Tatra NEyets Huy vuv; 
A , 
“Iva yv@re, Kat aicOyobe apporepa. 


DemosTH. OLYNTH, 


VOLUME I 








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TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE 


EARL OF HARRINGTON, 


VISCOUNT PETERSHAM, 
AND 


COLONEL OF THE TWENTY-NINTH- 
REGIMENT OF FOOT. 
MY LORD, 
AVING had the honor to serve under your 


Lordship, it was my fortune, in common 
with all who were in the same situation, to become 
attached to your Lordship by personal obligations; 
and it is a consequence which I hope will be thought 
equally natural, that I should take this occasion to 
acknowledge them. 

In laying before the Public uncommon scenes of 
difficulty, danger and distress, I might be further 
tempted, had I talents for the undertaking, to par- 
ticularize the unremitting fortitude, which, in sev- 
eral of the most trying instances, distinguished 
your Lordship’s conduct: but examples of bravery, 
though none can be more conspicuous than those 
your Lordship shewed, abound in every class of a 
British army: more rare though not less worthy 
of imitation, is the sort of attachment your Lord- 
ship has always shewn to your corps. 


x DEDICATION 


It has been your praise, my Lord, when out of 
the field, to forego the pleasures which high rank, 
fortune, youth, and accomplishments opened to 
your view, and to brave the severity of climate, 
through tedious winters, in mere military fellow- 
ship. 

In retired quarters, you found the care of your 
men to be at once the true preparation for your 
country’s service, and a most gratifying enjoyment 
to your own benevolence: while on their parts, they 
considered their leader as their best friend and 
benefactor. Discipline was thus placed upon a 
basis that mechanical valor can never establish, 
upon a principle worthy of troops who can think 
and feel, confidence and gratitude. 

Duly impressed with these and many other of 
your virtues — many more than you would permit 
me to enumerate; I have the honor to be 

| My Lord, 
Your Lordship’s most obedient, 
And most devoted 
Humble Servant, 


THOMAS ANBUREY. 


mee s C RIBE-RS 


TO 
THE WORK 


HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS —— THE DUKE OF YORK 

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY 
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — THE DUKE OF GLOUCESTER 
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS — THE DUKE OF CUMBERLAND 








, A 
His Grace The Duke of Argyle 
The Right Hon. The Earl of Altamont 
The Right Hon. Lord Audley 





The Hon. Lady —— Harriet Ackland 
His Excellency Baron D’Alvensleben 





THE ROYAL REGIMENT OF ARTILLERY. 

Lieut. Col. Walker 
— Johnston 
Major Williams 

— Lemoine 
Blomefield 
Captain Houghton 
Dysart 
Willington 
Whitworth 
Collier 
Remington 
Howarth 
Hadden 
Lieut. Reed 
Neville 
Sutton 
Surgeon Mr. Wild 



































Xu 


SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


Major Affleck, Portland-Street 
Capt. Armstrong, (8 Regt. of Foot) 
James Abel, Esq. —— Cloak-Lane 
John Adams, Esq. 
























































Alexander Adair, Esq. Pall Mall 
Mrs. Towers Allen, Queen’s-Square 
Mr. A. C. Arnold, Lowestoft 
Mr. Rd. Aldridge, Bristol 
Mr. Wm. Austin, Idol-Lane 
Ainsley’s Library, Edinburgh 
Andrews’s Library, Worcester 
Mr. Axtell, Cornhill 
James P. Andrews, Esq. 
Amicable Society, Northampton 
B 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Buckinghamshire 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Barrymore 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Balcarres 
The Rt. Hon. The Countess of Balcarres 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Breadalbane 
The Rt. Hon. Viscount Barrington 
The Rt. Hon. Viscount Beauchamp 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Brownlow 





Braddyll, Esq. 

Mrs. Braddyll 

Sir Robert Barker, Bart. 

Sir William Augustus Brown, Bart. 
Richard Benyon, Esq. M.P. 

General Burgoyne 

Dr. Brocklesby, Norfolk-Street 

Lieut. Col. Bowyer, (66 Regt.) 

Capt. Bell, (19 Regt.) 

Lieut. Col. Baillie, Edinburgh 

Capt. Bowen, Independent Comp. 

Capt. Barrette, Doncaster, (100 Regt.) 
Lieut. Budworth, (72 Regt.) 

Richard Barwell, Esq. M.P. 

Blomfield, Esq. 

John Bax, Esq. 

















Preston, Kent 


SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


John Benjafield, Esq. Parliament-Street 











Thomas Beardmore, Esq. Temple 
Mr. John Berry, Canterbury-Square 
The Rev. Mr. Bowcher, Piccadilly 





George Biggins, Esq. Essex-Street 
Ynyr Burgess, Esq. East India House 
The Rev. Dr. Bate, Walton 
Lieut. Bartlet, (Royal Engineers) 
Mr. Broughton, Treasury 
Mr. John Breadhower, Portsmouth 
Mr. Barnikle, Plymouth 
Mr. Burtenshaw’s Library, 
Thomas Bowes, Esq. 
Mr. Bull’s Library, Bath 
Mr. Thomas Batchelor, Bristol 
Mr. Beazeley, Black-Friars Road 
Mr. J. B. Becket, Bristol 
John Bourchier, Esq. Ipswich 
Mr. Barrukel 
Rob. Barrett, Esq. 
Capt. Arthur Buttell, 
James Betts, Esq. 
Wm. Butler, Esq. Gresse-Street 
Mr. Baker’s Library, Southampton 
Mr. Barry’s Library, —— Hastings 

C 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Chesterfield 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Carlisle 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Cholmondeley 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Camden 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Cavan 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Craven 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Clifford 
. The Rt. Hon. Lord Carberry 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Cathcart 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Fred. Campbell 
Sir Wm. Clerke, Bart. 
Sir Hy. Gough Calthorpe, 
Sir Henry Clinton, K.B. 














Chatham 














Brighthelmstone 




















London 
Marines 
Essex-Street 






































X111 


xiv SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 





General Christie, Leicester-Square 
Major Campbell, (24 Regt. of Foot) 
Capt. Cotter, (103 Regt.) 

Bryan Cooke, Esq. 

Mrs. Cooke 




















Wm. Cowden, Esq. Meuse 

Ralph Clayton, Esq. 

Richard Crofts, Esq. Pall Mall 

The Rev. Mr. Cove, Helstone 

Mrs. Casement, ditto 

James Crowdy, Esq. Swindon, Wilts 
Mr. Jos. Colborne, Surgeon, —— Brentwood 
Mr. Edm. Cotterell, Cold Bath Fields 
Mr. James Cooper, —— Swithin’s-Lane 

Dr. Cockall 





Mr. Thomas Conder, Aldersgate-Street 








The Rev. Mr. Crutwell, Oakingham 
James Cobb, Esq. East India House 
Mr. Crawford’s Library, Brighthelmstone 





Jos. Chew, Esq. Sec. for India Affairs, North America 
William Curtis, Esq. London 
Lieut. Crichton, (31 Regt.) Gosport 


J. Croft, Esq. 














D 
His Grace The Duke of Devonshire 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Derby 





The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Dartmouth 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Donegal 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Countess of Darnley 


The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Duncannon 
The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Dalrymple 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Ducie 





The Rt. Hon. Lord Dorchester 

Colonel Dundas 

Lieut. Will. Dalton, (Royal Navy) Rotherhithe 
Lieut. Col. Delancey, Margaret-Street, Cavendish-Square 
Major Dalrymple, (49 Regt. of Foot) 

Capt. Duncan 


Richard Dowding, Esq. —— Shadwell 








SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK xv 











Mr. George Dixon, Wooburne 
Mr. John Dew, Shenfield 

Mr. B. U. Dowson, Geldeston - 
The Rev. D. Davies, Macclesfield 








Dulot and Owen’s Library, Brighthelmstone 
Mess. Downes and March, Yarmouth 

The Rev. H. Bate Dudley, Bradwell 

Rich. Jles Dimsdale, Esq. 





E 


The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Effingham 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Eglingtoune 











The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Euston 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Elphinstone 
Sir James Erskine, Bart. —— Cavendish-Square 


THE ROYAL ENGINEERS. © 


Major General Sir William Greene, Bart. 
Lieut. Col. Moncrief 

Capt. Twiss 

Capt. Rudyard 

Lieut. Beatson 

——— Courture 

Bartlett 

Mrs. Edgar, 
Mrs. Edwards, 
Mr. Thomas Evans, 








Percy-Street 
Savage-Gardens 
Minories 








rE 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Fauconberg 
The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Falmouth 
The Rt. Hon. Viscount Fielding 
The Rt. Hon. —— Charles James Fox 
The Rt. Hon. —— M. Fitzpatrick 





FIRST (OR KING’S) REGIMENT OF DRAGOON GUARDS. 
General Sir George Howard, K.B. 
Lieut. Col. Vyse 
Capt. Trotter 


xvi SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


Lieut. Hawley 
Syer 

— Beckford 
Serjeantson 
Need 


Cornet Hamilton 











FIRST REGIMENT OF FOOT GUARDS. 


Colonel Bertie 

Strickland 

— Hon. Francis Needham 
Hon. H. F. Stanhope 
Sir Charles Asgill, Bart. 











FIFTEENTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Lieut. Gen. Sir Wm. Fawcett 
Lieut. Col. Myers 
Capt. Madden 

Ditmas 
Paumier 
Spencer 

Gordon 

Brown 
Cockburne 
Lieut. Ball 

Stopford 
Ensign Barnard 

Mc Donald 
Qr. Master Watkins 
Surgeon Mr. Anderson 























FORTY-SIXTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Lieut. Col. Hon. Colin Lindsay 
Major Leighton 

Capt. Bell 

Wale 

Lieut. Lloyd 

James 


Dallas 











SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK — xvii 


FORTY-SEVENTH REGIMENT OF FOOT, 


Lieut. Col. Irving 
Major Coote 

Alcock 

Aubrey 

Capt. Sir Henry Marr 
Featherstone 
Lieut. Johnson 

Hill 

Baldwin 

— Mc Lean 

















FORTY-EIGHTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Lieut. Col. Hedges 
Major D’Arcy 
Major Campbell 
Capt. Jones 

Lieut. Jones 
Roberts 
Ensign Beevor 
Power 
Colonel Forbes, Arlington-Street 

Lieut. Col. Forster, (66 Regt. Foot) 

Thomas Forsyth, Esq. New Bond-Street 
Cuthbert Fisher, Esq. Tower 

J. Flint, Esq. Shrewsbury 

Mr. Fletcher, Liverpool 2 sets 

Mr. Forrest, St. Martin’s-Lane 

Rose Fuller, Esq. Wigmore-Street 

Walter Farquhar, Esq. Great Marlborough-Street 
Mr. Firmin, Strand 

Thomas Fortune, Esq. 
Mr. Fenno’s Library, 






































London 
Colchester 





G 
His Grace ———— The Duke of Grafton 
His Grace ————— The Duke of Gordon 
The Rt. Hon. Earl Grosvenor 





xviii SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 























The Rt. Hon. Earl of Glasgow 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Gage 

General Gordon 

Capt. Gwynn 

Lieut. Gordon, Parliament-Street 
Grant, Esq. 

Richard Gray, Esq. Pall Mall 

Mrs. Gibson, Hertford-Street 

Samuel Greaves, Esq. Manchester 

The Rev. Mr. Gryll, Helstone 





Mr. T. Gryll, ditto 
Thomas Glynn, Esq. 





The Rev. Mr. Gilbert, Helstone 
Mr. Gardner, —— London 
H 
His Grace ——-—— The Duke of Hamilton 


The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Huntingdon 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Harrington 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Harcourt 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Hertford 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Howard 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Hawke 

The Rt. Hon. —— Lord Hawkesbury 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Heathfield 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Hood 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Archibald Hamilton 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Spencer Hamilton 
Sir Watts Horton, Bart. 

The Hon. Mrs. Horton 

The Hon. Lady Horton 

The Rev. Mr. Horton 

The Hon. Mr. Heneage 

Mr. Harman, Princes-Street, opposite the Mansion-House 























THE ROYAL REGIMENT OF HORSE GUARDS. 
The Rt. Hon. General Conway 
Col. Balthwayt 
Capt. Milnes 





SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK _ xix 
Capt. Chaplin 


Jefferson 








Col. Harnage, Parliament-Street 

Major Hawker, —— ditto 

Capt. Hanchett 

Capt. Hardy 

Major Haines, Hampshire 

Mr. Hall, Surgeon, (51 Regt.) 

The Rev. Mr. Hornby 

Mrs. Hindes, Hertford-Street 

John Hawkins, Esq. Helstone 

James Watson Hull, Esq. Belvedere, Ireland 
Trevor Hull, Esq. Greek-Street 

Mr. Hinckes, Great Portland-Street 

Mr. John Harding, Strand 

Mr. Hollyoake, Red Lion-Square 

Mr. Harris, St. Mary Axe 

Anthony Highmore, Esq. ditto 

Edward Heylin, Esq. Islington 

Mr. Hope, Upper Seymour-Street, Cavendish-Square 
Benj. Henshaw, Esq Hodsdon ; 
Thomas Hodgson, Esq. Bristol — 

Mess. Haydon and Sons, Plymouth 

The Gentlemens Book Club at Helstone 
Col. Hill, (late of the gth Regt.) Helstone 
Capt. Richard Hill, Helstone 

William Hoste, Esq. Barwick 

Mr. George Hall, Star-Office, Exeter-Street 


I 


The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Jersey 

Lieut. Col. Jacques, (51 Regt. of Foot) 

Sir John Johnson, Superintendant to the Indians in Canada 
Col. Jessop, Fludyer-Street 

Lieut. Jones, Lower Brook-Street 

Gen. Johnson 

Alex. Irvine, Esq. Berner’s-Street 


Mr. Richard Johns, —— Helstone 




































































xx SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


Mr. Johnson, Piccadilly 
Mr. Samuel Johnson, Bristol 


K 


The Rt. Hon. Lord Kensington 

Lieut. Col. Kingston, (28 Regt. of Foot) 

Capt. Kempthorne, Helstone 

Kellett, Esq. —— Russel-Street, Covent-Garden 
John Keene, Esq. —— Mansion-House 

Mr. James Kerby, London 

Mr. Charles Knight, —— Windsor 

Mr. Frederic Kanmacher 









































L 
His Grace -——-— The Duke of Leeds 
The Rt. Hon. The Marquiss of Lansdown 
The Rt. Hon. The Marquiss of Lothain 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl Ludlow 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Lovaine 
The Hon. Robert Lindsay 
The Hon. Capt. John Lindsay 
The Hon. Hugh Lindsay 





Sir Michael Le Fleming, Bart. Hertford-Street 
General Lambton, Harley-Street 
Paul Le Mesurier, Esq. — M.P. — Walbrook 














Charter Layton, Esq. Drayton 
Mr. Loxley, Poultry 
Mr. Losack, Wigmore-Street 





Mr. John Lee, - Black-Friars 











Mr. Leigh, Thorndon 
Mr. John Lees, Brentford 
| M 
His Grace The Duke of Marlborough 
His Grace — The Duke of Montrose 





The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Mount Edgecumbe 











The Rt. Hon. Viscount Molesworth 
- The Rt. Hon. Viscount Melbourne 
The Rt. Hon. Viscount Mountstuart 


The Rt. Hon. Lord Milford 





SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK xii 


Richard Master, Esq. M.P. — Charles-Street, Berkley-Sq. 
J. Madocks, Esq. (Coldstream Regt. Gds.) Bedford-Street 
Major Money, Norwich 











Capt. Mc. Kinnon, (63 Regt.) Ireland 
Capt. Robert Mc. Crea, Guernsey 
Cuthbert Mashiter, Esq. Romford 





Edward Mason, Esq. Spital-Fields 
The Rev. Mr. Mingin, Golden-Square 
Mr. Mackreth, Scotland-Y ard 

Mr. Joseph Mitchell, Helstone 

J. Milbanke, Esq. 

The Rev. Dr. Morgan, 
James Madden, Esq. St. Albans-Street 
Thomas Maude, Esq. Temple 

Mr. Mc Leish’s Library, Edinburgh 

















St. James’s-Square 








N ; 
His Grace —— The Duke of Northumberland 


THE NINTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Lieut. Col. Campbell 
Major Ritchie 
Capt. Baillie 

Hoey 
Buchannan 
== spencer 
Vincent 
Timms 
———— Virray 
Piercy 

Rose 

Mc Lean 
Lieut. Reynolds 
Mitchell 
Fatio 

Ensign James Rose 
Duffe 
Dalziel 
Burbridge 






































xxii SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


Ensign O’Connor 

Keightley 

Wolfe 

Chaplain — The Rev. Mr. Clewlow 








THE ROYAL NAVY. 
Admiral Montague 
Capt. Dacres 
Hardy 
Schanks 
Lieut. Wm. Dalton 
Wm. Bentick 
Mrs. Newberry, 














St. Paul’s Church-Yard 


O 
Sir George Osborn, Bart. Charles-Street, Berkley-Square 








James Ormsby, Esq. Dublin 

P 
His Grace The Duke of Portland 
Her Grace The Dutchess of Portland 





The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Plymouth 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Powis 
The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Palmerstone 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Pelham 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Petre 





























The Hon. Mr. Petre, Grosvenor-Square 
The Hon. Mr. G. Petre, Sonierset-Street 
The Hon. Thomas Pelham, Stretton-Street 
The Hon. General Parker 

Gen. Pitt, Tenterden-Street 

Capt. Peacock, (17 Regt. of Foot) 

Mr. Pugh, Poultry 





Mrs. Piozzi, Hanover-Square 

Mr. Phillips, Somersetshire 

Mr. Thomas Powell, Terace, Buckingham-Street 
Mr. Parnell, Church-Street, Spital-Fields 

Capt. Walter Prosser, Ireland 

Palmer and Merrick’s Library, 














Oxford 


SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK xxiii 


Mr. Powell, Newgate-Street 
Punchard and Jermyns’s Library, Ipswich 
Thomas Boothby Parkyns, Esq. 

Thomas Paulk, Esq. 























R 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Radnor 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Rivers 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Rodney 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Rawdon 
Sir Matthew White Ridley, Bart. Portland-Place 
Capt. Reed, (103 Regt.) 
Mr. Robson, Princes-Street, Hanover-Square 








Mr. Alexander Roberts, 
John Rogers, Esq. 
E. Read, Esq. Chester 

George Rome, Esq. Mount-Street 
John Le Chevalier Roome, Esq. 


Red Lion-Square 


Helstone 





London-Road 























Mr. Rush, Fountain-Street 
Alexander Raby, Esq. Cobham 
Mrs. Raby 
Mr. Robinson, Cornhill 
S 
His Grace The Duke of St. Albans 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Suffolk 
The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Shaftesbury 


The Rt. Hon. —— The Countess Dow, of Shaftesbury 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Scarborough 

The Rt. Hon. —— The Ear! of Stanhope 

The Rt. Hon. Earl Spencer 

The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl Stamford 














The Rt. Hon. Viscount Stormont 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Say and Sele 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Stourton 
‘The Rt. Hon. Lord St. John 





~The Rt. Hon. Lord Scarsdale 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Southampton 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Robert Spencer 











xxiv SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


The Rt. Hon. Lady Ann Simpson 

The Hon. — Mr. Sandilands 

Thomas Stanley, Esq. M.P. Pall Mall 
R. B. Sheridan, Esq. M.P. —— Bruton-Street 











SECOND (OR ROYAL N. BRITISH) REGT. OF DRAGOONS. 


Major Ramsay 
Capt. Seaford 
Smith 
Boardman 
Lieut. Fortescue 
Cornet Wigley 
Bothwell 
Leigh 














SIXTEENTH (OR QUEEN'S) REGT. OF LIGHT DRAGOONS. 


The Hon. Major General Harcourt 
Major Gardner 

Hon. H. Bennett 
Howell 

Capt. Boyce 
Carmichael 
Lieut. Hawker 

Smallett 

Archer 

Munro 

Cornet Ashton 

Lee 

Pennyman 
Anson 


Deering 



































SIXTY-SECOND REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Major Gen. — Matthews 
Lieut. Col. — Campbell 
Major Howe 

Capt. Banbury 

Sotheron 

—— Wypbrants 

Blackall 






























































Simmons and Kirby, Canterbury 
John Seleer, Esq. London 
Mr. Stalker, London 

Mr. Sollors, Blandford 

The Rev. Mr. Salmon 


























Mr. J. F..Souel, Guernsey 
John Secker, Esq. Windsor 
Stell’s Library, Hastings 

at . 
The Rt. Hon. The Marquiss of Titchfield 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Torphichen 


SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK — xxv 

Capt. Matthias 

Bromhead 
—— Blacker 

Vallancey 
Lieut. James 

Brudenell 

Gourlay 

Batchelor 
= Kerr 
Ensign Kent 

Garden 

Major Skene, Chelsea 
Lieut. Stuart 
Mr. Seddon, Aldersgate-Street 
John Sawrey, Esq. Lancashire 
Edw. Spike, Esq. 
Mrs. Spike 
Miss Spike 
Mr. John Slade, Camberwell 
Daniel Seton, Esq. Stratford-Place 
Mr. Shiercliffe, Bristol 
Mr. Charles Spitta, College-Hill 
John Scott, Esq. Wigmore-Street 
Capt. Scott, (53 Regt of Foot) 
Mr. Scott, Jun. Norwich 
Miss Smiths, Percy-Street 
James Simmonds, Esq. Banker, Canterbury 


xxvi SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


The Hon. Mr. Twisleton Thompson 
Sir Charles Thompson, Bart. K.B. Bond-Street 
Sir John Thorold, Bart. Cavendish-Square 








THE THIRD REGIMENT OF HORSE, OR CARBINEERS. 


Colonel Longfield 

Major Wilford 

Willey 

Capt. Smith 

Tisdale 

Ross 

Lieut. Daniel 

French 

| Templeton 

——— Hitzgerald 

Sir Thomas Chapman 
Cornet Cramer 
Gillespie 

Longfield 

Hon. Geo. Pomroy 
Duncombe 
Surgeon James Wallace 
































THE THIRD (OR PRINCE OF WALES'S) REGT. OF DRAG. GUARDS. 


Major Gen. Phillipson 
Col. Mansell 

Capt. Milbanke 
Charlton 

Lieut. Charlton 
Cornet Dotten 





TWENTIETH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Colonel Lind 

Major Hon. S. D. Strangeways 
—— Rollinson 

Capt. Winchester 

Norman 

Lieut. Bateman 

Brooke 

Ensign Wynyard 








SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK xxvii 


TWENTY-FIRST REGT. OF FOOT (OR RN B) FUZILEERS. 


Colonel Hamilton 
Major Lovell 

Capt. Petrie 
Brodie 

Lieut. Grant 
Dalgleish 
Congalton 
Or. M. Geo. Lauder 











TWENTY-FOURTH REGIMENT OF FOOT. 


Lieut. Gen. Wm. Tayler 
Lieut. Col. England 
Major Pilmer 
Campbell 
Capt. Blake 

Stiel 

W. Doyle 
Lieut. Leybourne 
Short 
Hollings 
Ensign Meyrick 




















General Trapaud, Berner’s-Street 
Col. Anstruther Thompson, — (late of 62 Regt.) Edinburgh 




















Samuel Toulmin, Esq. Walbrook 
Mr. James Turner, Jun. Milbank 
Thomas Trewin, Esq. Helstone 
John Trevener, Esq. —— ditto 

Mr. William Terwin, Haymarket 
Mr. Templeman, Size-Lane 
Edward Thornycroft, Esq. Chester 
Mr. William Truston, Brentwood — 





Mr. John Thomas 

Rey. Mr. Hen. Hawkins Tremayne, A. M. Heligan, Cornwall 
Mr. Leigh Thorndon, 

Thomas Fortune, Esq. London 

Mr. Thurgood, Fenchurch-Street 

David Thomas, Esq. — Pay Master in America 








xxvil SUBSCRIBERS TO THE WORK 


U 


The Rt. Hon. The Earl of Upper Ossory 
Mr. Benjamin Uphill, — Mount-Street, Grosvenor-Square 
Cornelius Vanderstop, Esq. Princes-St. Hanover-Sq. 








Ww 


The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Westmoreland 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Winchelsea 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Waldegrave 
The Rt. Hon. —— The Earl of Warwick 

The Rt. Hon. —— Viscount Weymouth 

The Rt. Hon. Lord Willoughby de Broke 
The Rt. Hon. Lord Walpole 

Sir Watkin Williams Wynne, Bart. — St. James’s-Square 
Sir George Warren, K.B. Grafton-Street 
Miss Warburton 

General Warde 

Capt. Willoe, (8 Regt. of Foot) 
Wiseman, (53 Regt. of Foot) 
Edward Wilford, Esq. —— Chelsea 
































Williamson, Esq. Temple 
Richard Whatley, Esq. Parliament-Street 
Rev. Mr. Whatley, ditto 
Rev. Mr. Wills, Helstone 








Mr. John Whitehead, Basinghall-Street 
Mr. Thomas Wagstaff, —— Highgate 

Mr. John Winpenny, Bristol 

Robert Woodriff, Esq. Temple 

Mr. Matthew White, St. Swithin’s-Lane 
Woodmason and Page, Leadenhall-Street 
James Woodmason, Esq. Bond-Street 


Y 

















Major William Young 


How bo AC UK 


HE following letters were written to gratify 

private friendship, and would never have 
been intruded upon the Public, but from the en- 
treaties of some of the most respectable Subscribers 
to the Work, who flattered the Author, that as they 
contained much authentic information, relative to 
America, little known on this side of the Atlan- 
tic, they could not fail of being interesting to the 
Public. 

Their style and manner will clearly evince them 
to be the actual result of a familiar correspondence, 
and by no means void of those inaccuracies neces- 
sarily arising from the rapid effusions of a confes- 
sedly inexperienced Writer, which will scarcely be 
wondered at, by those who consider how widely 
different are the qualifications necessary to form 
the Soldier and the Author. 

Every thing the Reader may meet with will not 
appear strictly zouvelle; but this is a circumstance 
unavoidably attending the writer of a tour through 
a country, which has been already the subject of so 
much discussion; but there are certainly many new 
circumstances related, which will serve to point out 
the true character and manners of the Americans. 

The facts came within his own knowledge, or are 


xxx PREFACE 


supported by some honourable authority; and his 
motto has ever been, 





Nothing extenuate, 
Nor set down aught in Malice. 


They will strike every man with the greater 
force, after the evident partiality of a late Author, 
who has been led to represent the Favorers of Inde- 
pendence as possessed of every amiable qualifica- 
tion, and those who espoused the rights of the 
Mother Country, as destitute of common feelings, 
and humanity itself. 

The Author, sensible how much those Subscrib- 
ers, whose generosity has exceeded the limits of the 
subscription, would be hurt by a particular distinc- 
tion, cojointly renders them those thanks, 


“Which the tried heart that feels alone can give.” 


fk AV E LS 
DHROUGH THE 


Pee tOR PARTS OF AMERICA 





ane AV E LS 


THROUGH THE 


INTERIOR PARTS 


OF 


peep Ee RK. 1 Cc A 


Deke ok oT 


Cork, August 8th, oe 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

RECEIVED your letter, dated the 2d instant, 

and surely nothing can be more flattering than 
the warm testimony of regard and friendship every 
line of it speaks. — It was with great reluctance 
you consented to my going into the army, but a 
dull inactive life neither suited my circumstances 
nor my inclination, and an early love of a military 
one, soon determined my choice. My time and poor 
abilities cannot be so well employed, as in the serv- 
ice of my King and country. 

I have no regrets at quitting England, but the 
loss I must sustain in your pleasant and improving 
conversation; and am persuaded you will alleviate 
as many of those painful reflections as possible, 
by taking every opportunity of writing to me. — 


53 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


None shall be omitted, on my part, of assuring you 
how often I think of you, and the implicit attention 
I shall ever pay to your commands, in giving you a 
description of persons, places, and various occur- 
rences — and should I sometimes be too particular 
on trivial subjects, you must excuse it, and remem- 
ber the two prevailing motives you assigned for 
this kind of correspondence — the pleasure you 
was so obliging to say it would afford you, and the 
utility you thought it would be of to me, by calling 
my attention to whatever became in the least wor- 
thy of observation. 

This is the last you must expect from me on this 
side the Atlantic, as in a few days we sail, with the 
care of some recruits for the 47th regiment. 

I once more intreat you, my dear friend, to take 
every opportunity of writing to me, and believe 
that time and distance can never abate the respect 
and friendship with which I am, 

Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 3 


al ely Te ERe Lil 
On board the Howe, on the ‘ Sept. 11th, 
Banks of Newfoundland. 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


T would be very ungrateful indeed not to em- 

brace the opportunity, by a ship that is bound 
for England, now lying too for letters, to send you 
a hasty account of the events that have happened 
since my departure from Ireland. 

You know I had the care of some recruits for the 
47th regiment; and as they were composed of that 
nation, no less famous for their characteristic er- 
rors, than their spirit and unbounded hospitality, 
let me relate a casual occurrence or two, in place of 
novelty, which cannot be expected, situated as I 
am, between sky and water. 

There were continually some little disputes 
among these Hibernians. One day, on hearing a 
more than usual noise upon deck, I went up to en- 
quire the occasion of it, and learnt it was a quarrel 
between two of them. Upon asking the cause of 
him who appeared the transgressor, he exclaimed, 
“Oh! and plaise your Honor, I did nothing to him 
“at all, at all’? — when the other hastily replied, 
“Oh yes, and plaise your Honor, he said as how he 
“would take up a stick and blow my brains out.” 
The peculiar manner in which it was vociferated, 
was so truly comic, that I could not refrain from 


é INTERIOR TRAVELS 


laughter, and merely reprimanding them, over- 
looked the offence. 

The weather has been very pleasant, ’till a few 
days previous to our coming on these Banks, when 
there ensued a most dreadful storm. The ship was 
unable to carry the least sail, being left to the fury 
of the driving tempest, it was impossible for any 
one to keep the deck, and the helm was lashed hard 
of weather. 

About the third day the storm began ¢ to abate, 
and the evening became almost calm. But there 
was such a prodigious swell of the sea, that the ship 
was expected every moment to roll her masts over- 
board: she had driven so much to the leeward, that 
although we could not discern land, the yards and 
rigging were covered with birds, that were blown 
from it by the storm. 

At this time, one of my recruits coming upon 

deck, not observing any one there, and the sea so 
tremendous, immediately went below, and cried 
out to his companions, “Oh! by my soul, honeys, 
“the sea is very dreadful, and we are all sure to be 
“drowned, for the ship’s a sinking. However, I 
“have this consolation, that if she goes to the bot- 
“tom, the Captain must be accountable for us 
“when we get to Quebec.” And his fears operated 
so powerfully, that he gave a groan, and fainted 
away. 

A few days after this the sea, which before had 
been so tremendous, and to use the technical 
phrase, run mountains high, was now become as 


THROUGH AMERICA 5 


calm as a mill-pond. It is customary, on such 
weather, in a fleet, for one ship to invite the Cap- 
tains and passengers of others todinner. The mode 
of invitation on these occasions, is by hoisting a 
table-cloth to the ensign-staff. 

We hung out this signal, and the Captain of 
the nearest ship, with an officer, came on board. 
After dinner, so sudden and strong a breeze sprung 
up, as to render their return very unsafe, and 
it was two days before they could venture, when 
even then they accomplished it with imminent 
danger. | 

This is a little anecdote I cannot help wishing to 
be much noticed, as it might be a caution to young 
officers and captains of ships, how they make 
nautical visits, or upon any occasion quit their 
vessels, i | 

These Banks may be ranked amongst the many 
surprising and wonderful works of nature, being a 
mountain formed under water, by the slime that is 
continually washing away from the Continent. Its 
extent has never yet been ascertained, but is gen- 
erally reckoned to be about 160 leagues long, and 
go broad. About the middle of it is a kind of bay, 
called the Ditch. The depth of water varies consid- 
erably, being in some places only five, and in others 
sixty fathom. The sun is scarcely ever to be dis- 
cerned, a cold thick fog generally covering the whole 
atmosphere, which renders it extremely dangerous 
to a fleet; for it is at times a state of total darkness, 
where a continual firing of guns, or incessant noise 


6 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


of the drum, can alone prevent the ships running 
foul of each other. 

The winds around these Banks are generally 
very impetuous; the constant agitation of the 
waves, I am informed, is occasioned from the sea 
being driven by irregular currents, that beat some- 
times on one side and sometimes on the other, 
striking with great force against the borders of these 
Banks, which are every where almost perpendicu- 
lar, and repel them with equal violence: and yet, 
on the Banks themselves, a little from the coast, 
it is as quiet as in a bay, except there happens to 
be a strong and forced wind coming from a great 
distance. 

When we found we were upon these Banks, which 
is perceptible without sounding, as the water 
changes from an azure blue to a white sandy color, 
we laid too in order to fish for cod, the process of 
which is no less entertaining than surprizing to 
Europeans. 

After baiting the hooks with the entrails of a 
fowl, in a few minutes we caught a fish, when the 
sailors made use of some part of the entrails, as 
being a better bait, and then drew up the cod as 
fast as you can possibly imagine; for though we re- 
mained there only half an hour, we caught as many 
as would serve the ship’s crew the rest of the voy- 
age. 

You may wonder by what means they are certain 
of having caught a fish, with so many fathom of 
line out. When it has been a little while in the 


THROUGH AMERICA - 


water, they gently pull it with the finger and thumb, 
and if there is a fish, the struggling of it occasions 
a vibration of the line, which is very perceptible, 
though so many fathoms deep. They then haul it 
in, and as soon as the fish comes in view, the water 
magnifies it to such a size, that it appears almost 
impossible to get it on board; and indeed it requires 
some dexterity, for on hauling them out of the 
water they struggle with such violence, as fre- 
quently to work themselves off the hooks, by en- 
tangling the line in the rigging, before they can be 
got up the ship’s side. 

But those vessels which particularly follow this 
business, avoid the inconvenience by erecting gal- 
leries on the outside, from the main-mast to the 
stern, and sometimes the whole length of the ship, 
in which are placed barrels with the tops struck 
out, and the fishermen get into these to shelter 
themselves from the weather. Their stay, I imag- 
ine, cannot be long, as the method of curing is 
equally as expeditious as the catching them; for as 
soon as the cod is caught, they cut out its tongue, 
and give it to one who immediately strikes off its 
head, plucks out its liver and entrails, and giving it 
to another, the bone is drawn out as far as the na- 
vel; it is then thrown into the hold of the ship, 
where it is salted and ranged in piles. The person 
who salts it is careful to leave sufficient salt be- 
tween the rows of fish, to prevent them touching 
each other, and yet not too much, as either excess 
would spoil the cod. 


8 INTERIOR TRAVELS 
The right of fishing upon the Great Bank, by the 


law of nature, ought to have been common to all 
mankind; but England and France, being the only 
two powers that had colonies in North America, 
made no scruple to appropriate to themselves, what 
Spain certainly had the greatest claim to, as the 
original discoverers of it; and who, from the num- 
ber of her monks and priests, as well as her religion, 
might have pleaded the necessity of keeping. Yet 
at the conclusion of the last peace, they entirely 
gave up all pretensions to it: since which time Eng- 
land and France are the only nations that fre- 
quent those latitudes, and both have frigates con- 
tinually cruizing, to prevent the encroachments of 
other nations. 

The produce of this fishery is certainly a most 
inexhaustible wealth to both countries, and it is 
no wonder they are so very tenacious of it: yet it is 
surprizing what a large circuit the ships are obliged 
to take before their voyage is compleated, and the 
profits resulting from this fishery returns to either, 
nearly traversing by water half the globe: for, in 
the first instance, they sail from their respective 
ports in Europe to these Banks, from whence they 
proceed with their cargoes to the Mediterranean 
and African islands, where they dispose of their fish 
for the produce of those islands, then go to the West 
Indies to exchange that cargo, and return home 
laden with sugars and rum. 

It appears a very singular circumstance, that 
these Banks should abound with cod, and no other 


THROUGH AMERICA 9 


fish; and that the greatest philosophers have never 
been able to account for it. 

The Captain of the ship that is waiting for our 
letters growing impatient, obliges me to make a 
hasty conclusion, with wishing you health and 
happiness, and assuring you that you shall hear 
from me as soon as I arrive at Quebec. I am, 


Yours, &c. 


IO INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LE EER ET 
Quebec, Oct. 8th, 1776 

DEAR sIR, 

FTER a fatiguing passage of eleven weeks, at- 

tended with no little danger, we are safe ar- 
rived at Quebec, which before I proceed to give you 
any description of, it will be more methodical to re- 
late the occurrences that befel us the remainder of 
our voyage. 

I told you in my last, that we had frigates cruiz- 
ing on the Banks, one of which informed us, that 
there were several privateers in the river Saint 
Laurence. Had we been less attentive to them, 
and more apprehensive of the shoals and sands 
that river abounds with, rendering its navigation 
difficult and dangerous, it would have been better 
for us; for a few days after we had passed Cape Ro- 
sier, a favorable wind springing up, the Captain 
crouded all the sail he possibly could, in order to 
get the next morning to the isle of Bec, where he 
might find a pilot, being very uneasy, as he had 
never been up that river before. 

But to our great surprize and astonishment, 
about one o’clock in the morning, we run right 
upon a shoal (which is called Mille Vache) with 
amazing violence. 

A ship belonging to the fleet that had gone a head 
in the day time, and perceived the shoal, (being 
low water) had immediately brought too, to warn 


THROUGH AMERICA II 


us of our danger, which they did, by firing signal 
guns. But the Captain mistaking them for those 
of a privateer, returned the shot. 

The ship beat with great violence, and was every 
moment expected to go to pieces; but the tide 
soon turning, she rested upon the ground, and to 
our great astonishment, at the break of day, we 
found ourselves so near the shore, that, to use 
a sea phrase, we could almost chuck a biscuit 
on it. 

Upon the clearing up of a fog, a ship was dis- 
cerned, which proved to be the same that had fired 
guns in the night time: she was then about three 
leagues distant. We immediately fired guns of dis- 
tress, of which she took no notice, and imagined 
she had, as too frequently is the case, deserted us, 
because we were in distress and stood in need of her 
assistance. 

However, we found friends in a quarter we little 
expected, for a canoe with three men paddled from 
the shore, one of whom came on board and told us, 
we were very fortunate to have struck at the time 
of spring-tides, or there would be no probability of 
the ship’s being got off. He directed us, when the 
tide was coming in, to carry out the bow anchor 
the length of the cable, and then made no doubt, 
but at the full, the ship would float again, and we 
might warp off. 

After having given every proper instruction, he 
took his leave, requesting, at the same time, that in 
case we were so unfortunate as not to effect it, we 


12 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


would come ashore to his house, offering every as- 
sistance to save the cargo, and with a sloop of his to 
take us up the river. 

At the return of the tide some men were sent out 
with the anchor, according to the directions given; 
at the heighth of it we floated, and to the joyful 
satisfaction of every one, got clear off, sustaining 
no other damage than the loss of two anchors: yet 
such was the Captain’s care and anxiety for his 
owners, that, I am persuaded, he would not have 
expressed half the concern for the loss of the whole 
ship’s burthen and company, that he did for his an- 
chors: as with Captains of hired transports, the 
crew and the cargo are but secondary objects. 

This is one instance of the numberless accidents 
that await transports, by which, I am convinced, 
the service is retarded, and many operations, how- 
ever critical, which depend on troops and provi- 
sion, are often frustrated, either by design or negli- 
gence. For only figure to yourself what a situation 
an army of so many thousands as that we have 
upon the Continent, and those chiefly fed with pro- 
visions from the Mother Country, must be in, ups 
the slightest delay. 

It is much to be lamented, therefore, that all 
transports are not commanded by King’s officers, 
or at least the master made more subject to con- 
troul, when under convoy, or naval orders; as it 
would prevent the inconvenience and hazard that 
is continually happening to the King’s service. 

You will suppose it surprizing that this has never 


THROUGH AMERICA 13 


been noticed and remedied by those in power. I 
should have thought the affair of the powder- 
ship that went into Boston, would have occa-. 
sioned a thorough investigation of this iniquitous 
business. 

The Captains of transports in general, are a set 
of people who have their own interest much more 
at heart than the welfare of their country; and it is 
well known that many of them are disaffected to 
Government, which was the case of the Captain of 
the ship just alluded to, but where the blame is to 
be imputed, is not for me to say. As in all proba- 
bility you may not have heard of this affair, or the 
real truth of it may not have reached you, I shall 
relate the matter, as I had it from a Captain of a 
ship who sailed in the same fleet, whose veracity 
can be relied on, and from the amazing strange cir- 
cumstances which attended the loss of that ship, 
you may form your own opinions. 

It seems this vessel was an immense charge, con- 
taining 1500 barrels of gunpowder, besides a great 
quantity of other warlike stores. Several persons 
well disposed to Government, and who were per- 
fectly acquainted with the Captain’s principles, in- 
formed those who had the direction of transports 
at Cork, that thisman would, the very first oppor- 
tunity, leave the convoy and join the Americans, 
but no attention was paid to the information; upon 
which they expressed their apprehensions to the 
Captain of the frigate who was to convoy them out, 
who promised to take all possible care of that ship 


14 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


during the voyage: and every one in the fleet 
thought he was not the man represented, as he kept 
close under the stern of the frigate. 

When the fleet came off Boston harbour, a frigate 
that was cruizing for the purpose, informed them, 
that the King’s troops had evacuated Boston, and 
gone to Halifax; and in the fleet’s sailing to that 
place, in one of those fogs that I have already de- 
scribed to you, the Captain of the powder-ship 
seized the opportunity, left the fleet, and sailed 
back for Boston, at the mouth of which harbour 
was stationed a fifty-gun ship, to prevent any ves- 
sel from going in, that might have escaped any of 
the frigates that were cruizing. 

Upon the Captain of the transport’s being inter- 
rogated by the man of war, he acknowledged him- 
self bound for Boston, that he had not heard of the 
troops evacuating it, and several more excuses; but 
some doubts and suspicions arising from the man’s 
conversation, and she being found a ship of such an 
immense treasure, an officer was sent on board her, 
and as the evening was coming on, lashed her to his 
main-mast, intending to sail her the next morning 
for Halifax, under the best convoy he could afford. 

But to shew you what a determined villain the 
Captain of the transport was, in the night time, he 
confined the Lieutenant, who was sent on board, 
cut away from the man of war, and under cover of 
the night, made all possible expedition to get into 
Boston. 

The tide would not answer his purpose that time, 


THROUGH AMERICA 15 


and the man of war could not come up to her, for 
want of a sufficient depth of water. The Captain 
manned his pinnace, and sent another Lieutenant 
on board her. Upon the officer’s attempting it, the 
Captain struck a harpoon into his skull; he fell into 
the boat, and the rest finding a great resistance, 
and that they were likely to be overpowered, rowed 
back again. 

The tide now turned, and he got the ship safe 
under the cannon of the Americans, before a greater 
forcecould be dispatched toretake possession of her. 

The loss on our side was great indeed, but the ad- 
vantage to the Americans was tenfold, as they were 
in the utmost distress for those materials, and which 
event may in some measure procrastinate this un- 
fortunate war. 

Two days after our late accident, we arrived 
off the isle of Condre, where we got a pilot, and 
three days after anchored safe in the bason of this 
city. 

Fearful of being too late to send this by a ship 
that is just sailing for England, there is only time to 
assure you, that I shall embrace every opportunity 
of convincing you, with how much sincerity and 
friendship I am, . 


Yours, &c. 


16 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


TE LGA py. 


Quebec, October 15th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 
EFORE you have any account of this city and 


its environs, I shall describe to you the river 
Saint Laurence, which, upon their first sailing up 
it, is the astonishment and admiration of every Eu- 
ropean. In forming an idea of a river, people in 
general are apt to judge by comparison: those who 
have made the tour of Europe, instantly call to 
mind the Rhine and the Danube; those who have 
not, the Thames. What will you say, when you 
are informed that these, though very noble and 
beautiful, are but mere rivulets, when put in com- 
petition with that of Saint Laurence. 

This river issues from lake Ontario, taking its 
course north-east, washing Montreal, where it re- 
ceives the Outtuais, forming many fertile islands, 
and a lake which is called St. Pierre. It continues 
the same course, and meets the tide 400 miles from 
the sea, where it is navigable for large vessels. 
After receiving in its progress innumerable streams, 
this great river falls into the ocean at Cape Rosier; 
it is there go miles broad, where the cold in general 
is severe, and the sea rather boisterous. In its prog- 
ress it forms variety of bays, harbours and islands, 
many of the latter being extremely fruitful and 
pleasant. | 

The river Saint Laurence has ever been looked 


THROUGH AMERICA 17 


upon as a good defence to this province, for in the 
neighbourhood of Quebec, it abounds with hidden 
rocks, with strong currents in many places, which 
force the ships to make various windings. From 
the time that Quebec was besieged by Sir William 
Phipps, in the year 1690, who was obliged to retire 
with a great loss of shipping, this river was very 
little known to the English till the year 1759, when 
Sir Charles Saunders, with a fleet of 50 English 
men of war, and near 300 sail of transports, arrived 
off Quebec, without the loss of a single ship, which 
clearly proves those dangers were not so great as 
had been represented. Since that time it has been 
better known; and though we have not at present 
at this place so many men of war, yet there are near 
as many transports, notwithstanding the naviga- 
tion up this river from the sea is rendered very dan- 
gerous, by the strength of the current and the num- 
ber of sand-banks, which frequently arise in places 
where they never appeared before; the fatal conse- 
quences of which several vessels have experienced 
this war. 

There are abundance of porpoises in the river 
St. Laurence, which are mostly white, and when 
they rise to the surface of the water, have the ap- 
pearance of an hog swimming. At night, if I may 
be allowed the expression, without being accused 
of an Iricism, they cause most beautiful fire works 
in the water: for being in such abundance, and 
darting with amazing velocity, a continued stream 
of light glides through the water, and as shoals of 


18 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


them frequently cross each other, the luminous ap- 
pearance is so picturesque, that no description can 
reach it. 

On our entering the river St. Laurence, we saw, 
off the island of Anticosti, a great number of seals, 
one of which we caught. This animal is generally 
ranked amongst the class of fish, although produced 
on land, and living more there than in water. Its 
head resembles that of a mastiff, it has four paws 
which are very short, especially the hinder ones, 
serving rather to crawl, than to walk upon, and re- 
sembling fins; but the fore feet have claws; the skin 
is exceeding hard and covered with short hair; 
they are first white, but as they grow up turn to 
sandy or black, and some of them are of three dif- 
ferent colours. 

There are two sorts, the larger weighing near two 
thousand pounds, and have a sharper snout than 
the others. I have been told that the Indians have 
the art of taming these creatures, so as to make 
them follow like a dog. 

I am led to imagine they couple and bring forth 
their young on the rocks, from this reason, wherein 
the powerful instinct of nature shewed itself very 
predominantly: one day, several large ones that 
had got their young on their backs, dropt them now 
and then into the water and took them up again, 
which no doubt, as being brought forth upon land, 
was to teach them to swim; it is not very surpriz- 
ing, when it is considered this animal is amphibi- 
ous: but the mode is exactly the same, only chang- 


THROUGH AMERICA 19 


ing the element, with that of the feathered crea- 
tion, whose little ones flutter from spray to spray, 
before they venture to fly abroad. The eagle car- 
ries her young, to train them up to encounter bois- 
terous winds. 

These animals are caught on the coast of Labra- 
dor. The Canadians go to this frozen and almost 
uninhabitable coast, in the middle of October, and 
remain there till June; their mode of catching them 
is by placing nets between the continent and a 
few small islands, where coming in shoals from the 
east, in attempting to pass these straights, they are 
caught; they then convey them to land, where they 
remain frozen till the month of May; the oil is then 
extracted from them, and it is said that seven or 
eight of these animals will yield a hogshead. The 
use of its skin is so generally known, it needs no 
description; its flesh is allowed to be very good, but 
if you had partaken of it, as I have done, you would 
coincide with me in opinion, that it turns to better 
account when converted into blubber. 

The tide goes a league beyond Trois Rivieres, 
which is thirty leagues higher up the river. The 
difference of the tide at this place is generally be- 
tween forty-five and forty-eight feet, but at the 
new and full moon, from fifty-four to fifty-seven, 
which is very considerable. 

The river is three quarters of a mile broad here, 
and as the sea water, though it does not come up 
immediately to the town, renders it somewhat 
brackish, the inhabitants make use of it only for 


20 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


culinary purposes, having spring water for their 
beverage. 

In sailing up the river St. Laurence, the first 
plantations you meet with are about fifty leagues 
on the south, and twenty on the north side of the 
river, below Quebec: they are but thinly scattered, 
and their produce very indifferent. The fertile 
fields commence near the capital, which I am in- 
formed grow better, the nearer you advance to 
Montreal. 

About half way up the river, we came to the Js/es 
aux Oiseaux, and passed them about the distance 
of a cannon shot; they are two rocks that rise up in 
a conical form, about 60 feet above the surface of 
the water, the largest of which appeared to be 
about two or three hundred feet in circumference; 
they are very near one another, and there does not 
appear a sufficient depth of water between them 
for a small shallop. It is difficult to say what color 
these are of, as both surface and banks are entirely 
covered with the dung of the birds that resort 
thither; however, there were discernable in places 
some veins of a reddish cast. 

One of the mates of the ship said he had been on 
them, and had loaded a small shallop with eggs, 
which were of different sorts, and that the stench 
arising from the dung was almost insupportable. 
Besides the sea-gulls, and other fowls from the 
neighbouring lands, there is found a species that 
cannot fly. It appears to me wonderful, in so pro- 
digious a multitude of nests, how every one finds its 


THROUGH AMERICA 21 


own. At my request, the Captain of the ship fired 
a cannon shot, which spread the alarm over all this 
feathered commonwealth, when there arose over 
the two islands a thick cloud of fowl, at least two 
or three leagues in circuit. 

One material circumstance I forgot to mention 
to you, happened in our voyage to this place. In 
the middle of August, after we had been incom- 
moded for several days with excessive heats, one 
morning, soon after we got up, we felt such an in- 
tense cold, that both the Captain and myself were 
obliged to put on our great coats. We could by no 
means imagine the cause of this alteration, the 
weather being extremely fine, and particularly as 
the wind did not blow from the north. But on the 
third morning, just before day-break, a sailor 
called out with all his might, “luff, luff,’ which 
_ the man at the helm had scarcely done, when an 
enormous piece of ice passed along-side of the ves- 
sel, which infallibly must have dashed her to pieces, 
had she struck against it. At day-break we saw it, 
when it appeared to be about six times as large as 
our ship, and twice the heighth of its masts. You 
well know that only one third of ice, while swim- 
ming, appears above water, and when that is 
considered, I do not wonder that the ignorant 
should not readily assent to the relations given 
by travellers, of these frozen productions of 
nature. 

Having already swelled this letter beyond its 
intended limits, and wishing to avoid, as much as 


22 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


possible, being too diffuse on trivial subjects, I shall 
conclude it with my best wishes for your welfare 
and happiness, assuring you that I am, with friend- 
ship and esteem, 

Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 23 


op edit bid Bod sie RGA 


Quebec, Oct. 24th, 1776 
DEAR sIR, 


GREEABLE to my promise in a former letter, 

I shall now proceed in the description of the 
river St. Laurence, with some occurrences which 
befel us, previous to our arrival at Quebec. 

One of the finest bays to be met with in going up 
the river, is that of St. Paul, and as we were under 
the necessity of anchoring opposite to it, till the 
return of tide, I prevailed on the Captain to go 
on shore. 

Upon our landing, the Priest of the parish came 
and invited us to his house, treating us with much 
hospitality. He was a man rather advanced in 
years, a native of France, and possessed of great 
Jearning; he had been recommended by the French 
Court to the Bishop of Quebec, while this province 
was under their government, and, as I am afraid is 
the case with too many well deserving characters, 
was poorly rewarded, by being made Priest of this 
small parish, for some essential services he had 
rendered the French, which, however, has many 
privileges annexed to it. 

From the great veneration and respect that was 
shewn him, one would naturally conclude he was 
much beloved by his parishioners, and his conver- 
sation turned upon making them happy, by in- 
structing them both in religious and moral duties, 


24 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


encouraging industry, and divesting them of those 
innate savage dispositions, which, he observed, the 
lower sort of Canadians are but too prone to. 

It was impossible to say which should be most ad- 
mired, his smile of welcome, the neatness of the re- 
past, or the hilarity of his conversation; all of which 
gave me the greater pleasure, when put in contrast 
with the other French Priests I have met with, who 
are austere and contracted, and so disgusting, that 
rather than sit down with them, I would eat hay 
with my horse. 

This bay is about eighteen leagues below Quebec, 
containing only this small parish, which is some 
distance from the shore of the bay, on a low plain, 
formed by the river. It is surrounded with exceed- 
ing high mountains on every side, excepting one 
large gap, which runs parallel to the river. The 
farms are at some distance from each other, and the 
church is reckoned one of the most ancient in Can- 
ada, which seems confirmed by its bad architec- 
ture, and the want of ornaments; the walls are 
formed of pieces of timber, erected at two feet dis- 
tance, which support the roof, and between these 
timbers the space is filled up with a kind of lime- 
slate. The church has no steeple, its roof is flat, 
and above this roof a bell is fixed in the open air. 
Most of the country around this bay belongs to the 
Priest, who lets it to the farmers. 

The inhabitants chiefly live by agriculture, and 
the profits arising from their commerce in tar, 
which they extract from the red pine, by making 


THROUGH AMERICA 26 


an incision into the tree in the spring of the year, 
when the sap is rising, and before the tree has 
stopped running, it will produce several gallons of 
turpentine, which they easily manufacture into tar. 

It may be conjectured, that the country situated 
upon the bay of this river being low, it was orig- 
inally part of the bottom of the river, and was 
formed either by the decrease of water, or increase 
of earth, carried from the brooks, or thrown on it 
by storms, as a great part of the plants that grow 
here are marine. But in order fully to inform my- 
self whether it was really as I apprehended, I en- 
quired of several of the inhabitants, if ever they had 
found any shells in digging, who answered, that 
they had never met with any nae but different 
kinds of earth and sand. 

There is one thing very remarkable, of which we 
had a proof: the wind is generally different in the 
bay to what it is in the river, for upon sailing into 
the bay we had as favourable a wind as could blow, 
but in the moment of entrance, it was directly the 
reverse, which is thus accounted for: the bay being 
surrounded on all sides, except one, with high 
mountains, and covered with tall woods, when the 
wind comes from the‘river, it strikes against some 
of these mountains, where it is repelled, and con- 
sequently takes an opposite direction. 

The people who inhabit this bay, as likewise 
those settled lower down the river, seem very poor; 
they have the necessaries of life in abundance, but 
debar themselves of the comforts that should arise 


26 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


from them, living chiefly upon bread and milk, and 
carrying their other provisions, such as butter, 
cheese, flesh, poultry, eggs, &c. to market, where 
having disposed of them, they purchase cloaths, 
brandy, and dresses for the women. Yet notwith- 
standing their pauvre manner of living, they are 
always chearful and in high spirits. 

Our object on going on shore was not so much 
to gratify our curiosity, as to procure some vege- 
tables; and as the Captain of the ship could not 
speak a word of French, as indifferent a Frenchman* 
as you know me to be, I was obliged to be the in- 
terpreter on this occasion. I however made the in- 
habitants understand me very well, till I asked for 
some potatoes, by the usual school term of pommes 
de terre, and by which I understand they are called 
in France; yet, notwithstanding the Canadians 
are allowed to speak as pure French as at Paris, 
I could not make them comprehend what it was I 
wanted, the man continually saying, Monsieur, je 
suis bien faché de ne pouvoir comprendre ce que vous 
souhaitez; at the same time expressing great un- 
easiness, as I repeatedly assured him, gue jetots 
bien sur qu il en avoit, which seemed to vex him 
still more. However, in walking over his planta- 
tion, I happened to see a parcel in the corner of a 
shed; pointing to them I said, Voila ce que je de- 
mande, upon which, with great joy in his counte- 
nance, he exclaimed, Oh! Monsieur, ces sont des 
putat, putat; adding, with great heartiness, Qu’d/ 
etoit bien aise d'etre en etat de me satisfaire. Upon 


THROUGH AMERICA 2 


my telling him, in England we called them pommes 
de terre, he added, with a remark which I should 
not have expected, Que ce nom leur convenott mieux 
que tout autre. As 1 paid him very liberally for the 
vegetables we had of him, he said, with great ex- 
pression of gratitude, 44! Monsieur, je me sou- 
viendrai toujours de vos bontés et des pommes de 
ferre. 

Canada, from the fertility of its soil, and the sa- 
lubrity of its climate, you would naturally imagine, 
contributed greatly to its own prosperity; but these, 
as in most other situations, are counterbalanced by 
its disadvantages. Canada has only one river for 
its exports and imports, and even this is so blocked 
up with ice, as not to be navigable during six 
months, while heavy fogs render the navigation 
‘slow and difficult the remainder of the year. And 
although the produce of Canada is superior to that 
of the other provinces, still the latter, not having 
similar impediments to encounter, will always have 
a decided advantage over this, in the convenience 
of almost uninterrupted navigation. 

The farm houses are mostly built of timber, con- 
sisting of three or four rooms, and in one they have 

an iron stove, which is rendered so hot, as to com- 
municate sufficient warmth to the rest. The roofs 
are covered with boards, and the crevices and 
chinks of the timbers are filled with clay, and ae 
out buildings are thatched with straw. 

Below the bay of Gaspey there is an island, called 
Isle Percée; on your approach to it, it has the ap- 


28 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


pearance of the fragment of an old wall, being a 
steep rock of about thirty fathoms in length, ten in 
heighth, and four in breadth, which the pilot told 
us was reported formerly to have joined Mont Foltz, 
which stands opposite to it upon the Continent. 
This rock has in the center of it an opening, in the 
form of an arch (through which a small schooner 
might pass in full sail); from which circumstance, 
you will easily imagine, it derives its name of Js/e 
Percée. 

The last object that attracts your attention be- 
fore you enter the harbour of Quebec, is the isle of 
Orleans, a most beautiful large island, situated in 
the middle of the river St. Laurence. It is seven 
leagues and a half long, and two broad, in the wid- 
est part, very high, with shores extremely steep 
and woody, though in some places there is a grad- 
ual descent to the river, and where that is the case, 
it is entirely free from woods, and upon these spots 
there are farm houses close to the shore. 

The isle itself is well cultivated, and the eye is 
continually amused with large stone houses, corn 
fields, meadows, pastures and woods, with the 
addition of several good stone churches, some of 
which stand so close to the river, and it being Sun- 
day when we passed the island, that we heard them 
at mass. 

The river St. Laurence, till you come to this 1s- 
land, is mostly four or five leagues in breadth, but 
after you pass it, suddenly narrows, so as to be no 
more than a mile broad at Quebec, and from which 


THROUGH AMERICA 29 


circumstance this city derives its name, from the 
Indian word Quebeio, or Quebec, which signifies a 
strait or narrowing. 

Shortly after we had passed this island, and 
turned Point Levy, we entered the harbour, which 
has the appearance of a large bay, for Point Levy 
stretches itself out towards the Isle of Orleans, so 
as to hide the south channel; and that island pro- 
jects so as to conceal the north. 

On entrance, you are struck with the grandeur 
and confusion and variety of objects that present 
themselves: fronting is the city; on the right is the 
beautiful fall of Montmorency, and a view up the 
river St. Charles; on the left there is an extensive 
view up the river St. Laurence, and over the falls of 
Montmorency; a delightful prospect of several 
leagues round the country, interspersed with the 
villages of Beauport, Charlebourg, &c. a particular 
account of which I shall give you in my next. 

I am, yours, &c. 


SOs INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Be eis ey aL 
Quebec, October 27th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 
N my description of this province, you must 
not expect a tiresome detail of distances, or 
a romantic description of the country, but a 
few general observations, as I shall pass through 
the different parts of it, which are deserving 
notice. 

This city, the capital of Canada, from the singu- 
larity of its situation, boasts of having that which 
no other city in the known world possesses, a fresh 
water harbour, an hundred and twenty leagues from 
the sea, capable of containing an hundred ships of 
the line; it is built in the form of an amphitheatre, 
on the declivity of a peninsula, formed by the riv- 
ers St. Laurence and St. Charles, and commands a 
prospect over extensive fields, which appears rich, 
lively and beautiful. 

This city suffered so much during the long siege, 
last winter, that it will by no means answer the 
beautiful description given by that elegant writer 
Mrs. Brookes, in her Emily Montague, for many 
houses were destroyed for fuel, others to prevent 
harbouring the enemy, and shot and shells contin- 
ually defacing and burning the rest, you must eas- 
ily imagine, greatly contribute to destroy all ideas 
of regularity. 

The city is divided into two towns, distinguished 


THROUGH AMERICA a1 


by the upper and the /ower, which, during the siege, 
were separated by a strong stockade, which proved 
extremely fortunate for us, as the enemy got into 
the lower town, but not being able to keep posses- 
sion, they set it on fire, and nearly destroyed the 
whole of it. 

There are two communications from the lower to 
the upper town, the one for carriages, by a serpen- 
tine road up a very steep ascent, and the other for 
foot passengers, up a flight of steps cut out of the 
rock. 

The carriage road to the upper town, as well as 
the streets in general, are almost impassable for 
either man or beast, never having been paved since 
the siege, when the pavement was entirely torn up, 
that the shells might bury themselves in the ground 
before they burst, whereby they were rendered less 
dangerous. 

The distresses of the inhabitants in a besieged 
town, at all times are very great; but here they were 
rendered particularly so, from the extreme severity 
of the weather, being deprived of fuel, and com- 
pelled to reside in their cellars, as the only place 
that could afford them the least shelter. 

_ The Governor’s house stands upon an high emi- 
nence, and being bomb-proof, the family thought 
themselves in perfect security: from its elevation 
too, it was imagined to be out of the reach of can- 
non shot. One evening, however, they were rather 
unpleasantly convinced of their error, by a shot 
passing through an adjoining room to that in which 


32 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


they were playing at cards; this threw them into no 
little confusion, and obliged them to retire to that 
part of the house in which the other inhabitants 
were compelled to reside. 

You may remember, some months before my 
departure from England, that Mr. W ywho is a 
bon vivant, jocularly remarked, if he were confined 
to any single room, it should be the cellar; he was 
then at the Governor’s, enjoying his favourite wish, 
happy as good company and good wine could make 
him, the sound of every cannon being the signal 
for a bumper. 

A Major who was here during the siege, expressed 
his astonishment to me that the place held out so 
long, having an amazing severity of weather, and 
numberless other difficulties to encounter; and that 
its safety was entirely owing to the great exertions 
of General Carleton, who continually encouraged 
the inhabitants to action, for they chiefly composed 
the strength of the garrison. , 

The suburb of St. Fauxbourg is entirely destroyed, 
but that, as well as the lower town, is now rebuild- 
ing, and when compleated, must add greatly to the 
beauty of the city. There are several quays, and a 
convenient place for heaving down ships to be re- 
paired, called Cul de Sac, where the King’s ships lay 
up during the winter, to preserve them from dan- 
ger upon the freezing and breaking up of the ice, 
which is more hazardous than you can imagine; for 
unless the ships are got into this Cu/ de Sac in proper 
time, they are very much damaged, and sometimes 





THROUGH AMERICA 33 


totally lost, by the amazing islands of ice that 
float down the river. 

This city is at present badly accommodated as to 
taverns, there being but one in the upper, and an- 
other in the lower town, both of them in the worst 
state imaginable; for although they provide good 
dinners, the rest of the accommodations are such 
as would disgrace the meanest public-house in Lon- 
don. No attendance whatever from servants; no 
separate apartments, and fifteen or twenty people 
are obliged to sleep in one room, about a yard 
apart from each other; usually deprived of natural 
rest in such vile dormitories, one scarcely feels re- 
freshed the whole day, and let me assure you, since 
I have been here, I have not enjoyed a good night’s 
repose, from the sonorous music I am surrounded 
with, arising from that natural and almost uni- 
versal wind instrument, the nose. The owners of 
these taverns imagine, if they give good dinners 
and good wine, they perform wonders. This, how- 
ever, may be said in their favour, as to accommo- 
dation, that this city has been for many months 
past in a very deranged state, owing to the late 
siege. 

The Canadians of the higher class are very polite 
and attentive to strangers; a few days since, I was 
invited to dine with one of the principal merchants, 
chez Monsieur Roberdeau; the dinner was entirely 
after the French fashion, and displayed with much 
taste, but such was the perverseness of my English 
stomach, that it could not relish one of their made 


34 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


dishes; and although I endeavoured to eat, out of 
compliment, the master of the house perceived I _ 
did not do it with any gusto; he then said, 4h! Mon- 
sieur, vous ne faites qu’arriver dans ce pays; quand 
vous aurez été avec nous un certain tems, vous aimerez 
beaucoup notre cuisine. Fe suis bien faché que dans 
ce moment il ne se trouve rien a@ votre gout, mais quand 
vous me ferez ’honneur de venir une autrefois chez 
mot, f aurai soin d avoir du ROAST BEEF ét du PLUMB 
PUDDING que les Anglois aiment tant. When the 
desert came, which was before the cloth was re- 
moved, I made amends for my not being able to 
eat at dinner, which the master of the house ob- 
serving, said, 4h! Monsieur, ce n'est pas que vous ne 
vous Soucte% pas des viandes, mais c'est que vous etes 
un peu comme les enfans, vous aimez les friandises; 
when, fearful lest I should be displeased at his rail- 
lery, with a politeness truly French, he filled his 
glass, and added, 4//ons, Monsieur, versez et vive le 
Roi a’ Angleterre. 

Fearful of losing the opportunity that now pre- 
sents itself of conveying this to England, I have 
but just time subscribe myself, 

Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 35 


Poe leh BE RAVI 


Quebec, October 30th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


HE hasty conclusion I was obliged to put to 

my last, having prevented me from entering 
so fully into the description of this city as I had 
intended, I now transmit to you some further par- 
ticulars relative to its siege, and the religion of its 
inhabitants. 

The causeway by which General Montgomery 
made his attack, is not more than twenty-four feet 
wide; on one side is a lofty perpendicular rock, and 
on the other a steep precipice, without any fence, 
down to the river; this causeway was defended by 
two strong barriers, and were I induced to give an 
opinion, nothing but a desperate effort could justify 
the attack. The event fatally proved it; for upon 
the advance of the enemy, the first barrier was 
abandoned, which, after they had broke down, 
flushed with success, and the hopes of easily gain- 
ing the upper town, they rushed on (with an in- 
trepidity that might expect every thing from their 
valor) to the second barrier, where two pieces of 
cannon were concealed, and upon their approach 
were immediately fired, when great numbers of 
them were killed and wounded, and in their retreat 
many fell down the precipice; this defeat greatly 
contributed to put an end to the siege, the termi- 
nation of which, had nearly been frustrated, by the 


36 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


eager impetuosity of the sailors, who were posted 
with those guns, as they could scarcely be re- 
strained from firing them when the enemy attacked 
the first barrier, which, if they had done, the slaugh- 
ter would not have been so great, nor the enemy 
perhaps have lost their brave Commander. But by 
the threats of the officers upon duty at that post, 
the guns were not fired till the enemy were within a 
few yards of them; and as they advanced abreast, 
as many as the causeway would admit of, you may 
easily conceive what havoc there must have been 
amongst them. 

In this daring enterprize fell a man, who lived 
long enough to establish a reputation, Quod nec 
Fovis ira nec ignis, nec poterit ferrum, nec edax abo- 
lere vetustas, as no doubt it will be handed down by 
the Americans to the latest ages. He died too soon 
for the support of that unnatural faction, to which, 
from mistaken principles, he was deeply attached; 
and being a man worthy of some notice, you shall 
know the little history I have been able to collect 
of him. 

In the last war he was an officer in our service, 
and distinguished himself in several instances. At 
the peace he came over to this country, and mar- 
ried an American lady, where by his conduct and 
agreeable manners, he was respected as much as if 
he had been a native; and being, from his marriage 
and long residence in the country, considered as a 
man fit to be trusted with a command, he was ap- 
pointed Brigadier General by the Congress; this 


THROUGH AMERICA 37 


commission he wished to decline, feeling a com- 
punction, as a native of Great Britain, and once in 
the King’s service, to bear arms against his Sov- 
ereign. His wavering inclination was unfortu- 
nately subdued, by the overpersuasion of a fond 
wife, whom he loved most affectionately, and the 
importunate solicitation of his relations and friends. 
When he had taken a decided part, his conduct 
fully corresponded with the high opinion that had 
been formed of his abilities and fidelity. No one 
who lived so short a time in their employ, could ren- 
der them more important services, or do their cause 
more honor. 

When he had been induced to sacrifice the hap- 
piness he enjoyed in private life, and enter into the 
service of the Congress, he was then absolved from 
all views adverse to their party (of which he had 
been suspected) and considered as a man who took 
a part in the cause from conscience and principle. 
In this light he was viewed while living, and spoken 
of when dead. He had the singular felicity of being 
equally esteemed by the friends and foes of the 
party he espoused; the latter acknowledged his 
worth, though they reprobated the cause in which 
he fell. To the praise of General Carleton, his re- 
mains were, by the General’s order, interred with 
all military honors. 

Very shortly after this repulse, an American sol- 
dier, in attempting to step out of his datteaux, at 
Wolfe’s Cove, fell into the water, and catching 
hold of a flake of ice that was floating down the 


38 | INTERIOR TRAVELS 


river, he got upon it, and was carried down the 
stream. As he passed Quebec close to the shore, he 
was seen by a centinel, who observing a man in dis- 
tress, called out for help, when numbers flew to his 
assistance, and found him motionless; by the help 
of spirituous liquors, with some difficulty they 
brought him to life for a moment, and just recov- 
ering speech enough to tell them, that the city 
would not long be in our possession, he instantly 
expired. 

A mile from the city is a Convent, that was once 
possessed of a beautiful garden, but this, as well as 
their chapel, with the images and other ornaments 
of their religion, are greatly injured. The enemy, 
after taking possession of the Convent, converted 
it into an hospital, and compelled the nuns to at- 
tend upon their sick and wounded; and what was 
still more persecuting to their religion than to their 
wishes, several of the nuns, after they had aban- 
doned it, proved capable of in some measure making 
up for the ravages of war, by producing what may 
in future become the strength and support of their 
country. 

There are several churches in each town, but 
those in the upper are the most magnificent, and 
have sustained the least damage. The largest of 
these churches, and what may be termed the ca- 
thedral, has nothing worthy of notice, except a 
handsome steeple; it is entirely roofed with slate, © 
and is the only building I observed that has this ad- 
vantage, they being all covered with shingles. It is 


THROUGH AMERICA 39 


much ornamented in the inside; the gallery is bold, 
light, and well wrought, surrounded with an iron 
ballustrade, painted and gilt, of curious workman- 
ship; one thing, however, appears very singular, 
that the pulpit is likewise gilt, and seems to have 
had more labor bestowed upon, than it is ever 
likely to have within it; there are three altars hand- 
-somely designed, and some good pictures; it is 
without any dome or cupola, having only a flat 
ceiling, very curiously ornamented; it is not as in 
most Cathedrals, paved with stone, but floored 
with planks, which makes this church the more sup- 
portable in winter; in others you are generally 
starved to death with cold. After the Romish serv- 
ice is over, on a Sunday, the Governor, with the 
officers and soldiers of the garrison, and the Prot- 
estant inhabitants of the city, resort thither to 
their worship. This little circumstance I mention 
to you, as the passing of the Quebec bill made such 
a noise in England; clearly to shew there is no ani- 
mosity among the inhabitants, on the score of re- 
ligion. Where the Canadians, who constitute the 
principal part of the inhabitants of this province, 
did not interfere with our religion, I cannot but 
think it was a very necessary and politic step in 
Government to tolerate theirs; as at the time the 
bill passed, it was judged proper to make this sac- 
rifice to them, in order to gain their affections, 
which seemed to be wavering, whether they should 
not join the other provinces in rebellion against 


England. 


40 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


For my own part, I am led to imagine, from the 
conversation I have had with several of the prin- 
cipal inhabitants, they never were in the least ap- 
prehensive of their religion being suppressed, but 
that idea was instilled into their minds by some 
party at home, who, I am sorry to observe, are more 
dangerous than any enemy we can possibly have 
abroad. 

With all the advantages of the laws of our con- 
stitution, the toleration of their religion, and the 
blessings of liberty, the Canadians are by no means 
well affected to the English Government, but have 
a strong propensity to be under the protection of 
the French; and, I am confident, would assist the 
Americans, had we not such a powerful force in 
this province. 

The garrison of this city, and a few inhabitants 
at Montreal, are staunch to the interests of Gov- 
ernment; for their fidelity and courage have been 
proved; upon the commencement of the siege, the 
General ordered every one out of the city, that he 
could entertain the least suspicion of, none of 
whom have since made their appearance. 

The army is now returning from the Lakes, and 
at present the garrison consists of Colonel Maclean’s 
regiment, and the recruits lately arrived from Eng- 
land; the 34th regiment is daily expected, as the 
army is getting into winter quarters. General Carle- - 
ton and General Burgoyne are both here, the latter 
of whom sails for England in a few days. 


My friend Captain W——n, who is embarking 





THROUGH AMERICA 4l 


for that country where my fondest wishes are 
placed, will deliver you this: he has just called upon 
me for my letters. I must therefore conclude. You 
shall hear from me by the latest ship that sails. 
Yours, &c. 


42 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


UR id Bh Red ha SG 6 


Quebec, Nov. 4th, 1776 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

ISITING two or three of the villages round 
this city, has enabled me to give you some 
little description of the country and its inhabitants. 

About Charlebourg and Beauport it is rather 
champaign, but becomes more woody towards Lo- 
rette. The farm houses interspersed about the 
country are very numerous, and being generally 
whitened on the outside, form a neat and pictur- 
esque appearance: their houses mostly consist of 
one floor, very few having a story to them, which 
gives rise to the idea, that the Canadians will fe// a 
story well, though they never make one. 

You would be pleased to find them extremely 
neat in their houses, very attentive to their cattle, 
and careful of the stock on their farms. They are 
at present employed in cutting and getting in wood 
for the winter, for themselves and the market, for 
though it is so early, there has been a severe fall of 
snow; wood-cutting continues all this month, and 
in December, when the winter Is set in, it is carried 
into the city upon sleighs over the snow, being a 
much easier conveyance than with carts, as the 
roads are so intolerably bad. 

The Canadians in general are a swarthy people, 
and low in stature; their dress consists of a kind of 
jacket, and when the weather is cold, a blanket 


a 


THROUGH AMERICA 43 


coat, which they fasten round them with a worsted 
sash. They mostly wear a woollen cap, but in the. 
cold weather a fur one, and have amazing long 
queues, of which they are exceedingly proud. They 
are seldom or ever found without a pipe in their 
mouths, a habit which they acquire in their very 
infancy. I was much surprized upon going into one 
of their houses, in which there was a large family, 
mostly boys, to find, that from the youngest up to 
the father, they all smoaked; nay, one of three 
years old had a pipe in his mouth. Their usual 
mode of living being chiefly milk and vegetables, 
which, joined to the number of the fast days im- 
posed on them by their religion, renders them a 
very meagre and slender people. 

The women are extremely lively, good-natured 
and obliging, and very neat in their persons, but 
have not the least pretension to beauty. The men 
are far from agreeable, for since they have enjoyed 
the blessings of an English Government, they are 
become insolent and overbearing, easily offended, 
and when they fancy themselves so, their cry 1s, Ze 
vais le dire au General Carleton; and the General is 
of that good-natured, affable disposition, that he 
always listens to their complaints, and 1s continu- 
ally plagued and tormented with some of the most 
trivial nature, by these troublesome and tenacious 
people, for they conceive their Governor is bound 
to hear them, especially their Sezgneurs, or Lords 
of the village; it is a title you have not among 
you, but I assure you those who possess it here, 


44 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


fancy themselves of no little importance, and 
assume more consequence than the first peer in 
England. 

These Seigneurs are descendants of those officers 
and gentlemen who first settled, and had grants in 
this province, when Canada was only a vast forest; 
who, not being proper persons to cultivate it them- 
selves, nor possessed of a sufficient fund to pay 
labourers, let out the grounds at a very slender quit 
rent; so that with the fines, which were here very 
small, and what is called the Droit du Moulin, & 
Metairie, a lordship, which consists of two leagues 
in front, and an unlimited depth, can yield them no 
great revenue; and there are many planters on their 
manors, who by their industry have become wealth- 
ier than the owner himself; notwithstanding which 
they stand in great awe of these Seigneurs, as they 
are descended from antient nobility in France, the 
forefathers of whom were permitted by Louis XIV. 
to exercise commerce as well by sea as land, with- 
out question, interruption, or derogating from their 
quality and rights; and to you, who so well know 
the French, I need not say in what manner any one 
descended from nobility conducts himself, and the 
hauteur he treats every one with. 

About three leagues from this city is a nation of 
Indians, who live at a small village called Indian 
Lorette: they are quite civilized, have a church, go 
regularly to mass, and are extremely ingenious in 
making bead ornaments. 

These Indians, who are really Christians, of the 


THROUGH AMERICA 45 


Romish persuasion, have a chapel built nearly on 
the model, and of the same dimensions as that I 
have heard you relate you met with in Italy, of 
Santa Casa, and, as in that, have an image of the 
Virgin, which, upon enquiry, appears to be a copy 
of that very statue. Whether it was the effect of 
imagination, devotion, or of any other cause, I can- 
not say, but upon attending the chapel, I was 
seized with an inward and sacred terror, of which I 
can give no account. The solid piety of the Indi- 
ans, (whom we are taught to believe so naturally 
ferocious, as no edification, religious or moral, can 
overcome) added to the gloomy horror of the situa- 
tion, made a violent impression upon me, which 
became the more strong, upon observing the fervor 
and modesty which they displayed in their devo- 
tions. 

These Indians had a great number of dogs with 
them, which seem to be the only domestic animal 
they breed; they are trained up for hunting, and 
are equal to any hounds; appearing to be all of one 
species, having upright ears, of dark brindled color, 
with a long snout, like that of a wolf. None of our 
English dogs are more remarkable for their fidelity, 
which is rather to be wondered at, being but very 
ill fed, and never caressed by them. 

As hereafter, and no doubt before my return to 
England, I shall meet with many Indians of differ- 
ent nations, customs and manners, give me leave 
to make a few reflections upon these savages, as 
they are called, and civilized man. 


46 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


In regard to the former, their origin and antiq- 
uity is quite uncertain; the only matter, therefore, 
to be considered is, whether these untutored na- 
tions are more or less happy than us? Whether 
they, who are in the condition of man left to mere 
animal instinct, passing their lives in hunting, feed- 
ing, producing their species, and reposing them- 
selves, do not pass a life of more felicity than ours, 
who can enjoy every luxury of life, and vary our in- 
dulgences and wants in a thousand ways? 

It is in our nature and dispositions, that we must 
look for the means of happiness. Wherein then 
does it consist? Present subsistence, and (which I 
think there can be none so hardened as not to have) 
a thought of futurity, and the hopes of enjoying 
every blessing that is attendant on it. The savage 
never is in want; he lays in no stores, because the 
earth and waters are reservoirs to supply them. 
Fish and game are to be had all the year. The sav- 
age has no house to secure him from the inclem- 
ency of the external air, or commodious fire places, 
his furs answering all these purposes. His labor is 
but for his own benefit; he sleeps when he is weary, 
and is a stranger to restless nights. Little does he 
experience weariness that arises from unsatisfied 
desires, or that uneasiness of mind which springs 
from prejudice or vanity. As far as I can perceive, 
the Indian is subject to no evils but those inflicted 
by nature. 

In what manner then do we enjoy a greater hap- 
piness? Our food may be more wholesome and deli- 


THROUGH AMERICA 47 


cate, our cloaths may be. softer, and our habita- 
tions secure us better against the weather; but then 
observe the common people, who are the support 
of civil society; the number of men who in all 
states bear the burthen of labor; can they be said 
to be happy, who, by the luxury and police of their 
governments, are reduced to a state of servitude? 
And to what outrages are those in a higher sphere 
exposed! If you are possessed of any property, 
you know not how far it may be called your own, 
but must, in all probability, divide the produce 
between the lawyer, in teaching you how to pre- 
serve it, and the collector, who comes to levy 
unlimited taxes. If you have no property, how 
can you be assured of a permanent subsistence? 
What industry or invention is secure against the 
vicissitudes of fortune, or the encroachment of 
others. | 

In the forests of America, if there is any scarcity 
in the north, the savages bend their course to the 
south; but in our civilized states, we are confined 
within certain limits, where if famine, or war, or 
pestilence, with all their concomitant horrors, 
should befal us, all must participate. 

It certainly is apparent to every one, that ‘in- 
justice prevails in the partial distribution of for- 
tunes and stations, which must be the effect and 
the cause of oppression. In vain does custom, 
prejudice, ignorance, or hard labor, stupify those of 
the lower class, so as to render them insensible of 
their degradation; it is not in the power of religion 


48. INTERIOR TRAVELS 


or morality to hinder them from seeing and feeling: 


the arrangements of policy, in the distribution of 
what we call good and evil; and, no doubt, you must 
have often heard a poor man expostulating with 
heaven, ‘‘What have I done, that I should deserve 
to be born in such an indigent and dependent situ- 
ation?” | 

The reason we prefer our condition to that of the 
savages is, because civilization has rendered us in- 
capable of bearing some natural hardships, which 
they can endure; and simply that we are attached 
to some indulgence custom has made necessary to 
us. Asa proof of this assertion, and how a civilized 
man may habituate himself to the society of sav- 
ages, and return to this state of nature, let me re- 
late the situation of a Scotchman, who was cast 
away upon the Island of Fernandez, where he lived 
alone; his only enjoyments consisted in supplying 
his wants, and to such a pitch had his ideas of hap- 
piness raised themselves, that he forgot his country, 
his language, his name, and even the articulation 
of words. And after a banishment of four years, 
from the burthens of social life, he had lost all 
thought of the past, or anxiety for the future. 

One of the first principles we imbibe, one of the 
first instincts of man, is a consciousness of inde- 
pendence; and no doubt but you must have ob- 
served, that the man who possesses a competent 
subsistence is incomparably happier than the rich 
man, who is restrained by prejudices and fashions, 
which incessantly are reminding him of the loss of 


THROUGH AMERICA 49 


his liberty, and which too frequently are the occa- 
sion of the rash and fatal act of suicide. 

In comparing the state of the savages to that of 
children, the question may easily be decided, which 
has been so warmly in debate among the most 
learned men, “‘whether the state of nature has the 
advantage over that of social life?”” And you, no 
doubt, will readily allow, that your state of child- 
hood, notwithstanding the restraint of education, 
was the happiest period of your life. Nothing 
surely can more clearly indicate the happiness that 
children feel, than that habitual chearfulness they 
demonstrate, when not under the schoolmaster’s 
rod. 

After all, a single word may determine this great 
question. Let us ask the civilized man if he is 
happy; and the savage whether he is unhappy? If 
they both answer in the negative, there is an end of 
the dispute. 

How mortifying must this parallel be to civilized 
nations! And the more painful the reflection, as it 
awakens the feelings to the cause of their suffer- 
ings; no doubt but they will one time or other be 
convinced from whence it arises — from the con- 
fusion of their opinions, from the defects of their 
political constitutions, and from the capriciousness 
of their laws, which ever are in continual opposition 
to the laws of nature. But for fear you think I am 
growing too sententious, I shall return to my de- 
scription of this province. 


The woods of Canada abound with a large kind 


50 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


of rabbits, which are of a brown color in the sum- 
mer, and turn white in the winter, one of the ef- 
fects of the extreme cold or snow that prevails in 
this climate; we found likewise vast quantities of 
partridges, much larger than ours, which the Cana- 
dians call pheasants; there are two sorts of them, 
the spruce and the pine: the meat of the former is 
very delicious, to those who are fond of the flavor 
of the spruce. The market at this place is well sup- 
plied with all kind of provision, fish and vegetables 
in abundance. 

The place best adapted to repay the labours of 
the husbandman, are pointed out to him by the 
spontaneous productions of nature; where the pine, 
the fir-tree, and the cedar grow solitarily, there he 
finds only watry and sandy grounds: but wherever 
the soil is covered with maple, oak, beech, yoke, 
elm, hickory, and small cherry-trees, there he is 
certain to meet with a reward for his trouble of 
. clearing away the woods, and may expect a great 
increase, without the difficulty of manuring. 

Being informed that the pacquet sails this after- 
noon, and having several other letters to write, a 
further account of this province must be delayed 
till my next; and in hopes you will pardon my 
breaking off so abruptly, and leaving you in a state | 
of suspence, I remain, 


Yours, &c. 





THROUGH AMERICA SI 


Pell BR 1X 


Quebec, November 5th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


BLIGED toconclude my last rather hastily, 
I shall resume my observations on this prov- 
ince, without any apology. 

Most of the plantations in Canada are sufficient 
to supply the wants of their respective owners, 
and there are few of them that do not yield rye, 
maize, barley, flax, hemp, tobacco, pulse and pot- 
herbs, in great abundance, and those of an excel- 
lent quality. 

It is capable of furnishing many articles for a 
trade with the West Indies, which was wholly neg- - 
lected, whilst this province was under the French 
Government; but since in our possession, great 
quantities of flour, planks, and timber, proper for 
building, have been exported to them: and as there 
is perhaps no country in the whole world which 
produces more sorts of wood, or of a better quality, 
you may easily judge what immense riches may 
be drawn from thence, it consisting principally of 
woods. 

I know not whether giving you an account of the 
extensive forests of Canada, will afford you any 
entertainment; but when I inform you that they 
have the appearance of being as ancient as the 
world itself, and were never planted by the hand of 


52 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


man, I think you will find some amusement in the 
description of them. 

On my first arrival in this country, I was struck 
with the loftiness of the pines, fir-trees, and cedars, 
which are of a size perfectly astonishing. There are 
two sorts of pine, both of them yielding turpentine. 
The white pines produce, on their upper extrem- 
ities a kind of mushroom, which the Canadians ad- 
minister in cases of the dysentery. The red pines 
contain more turpentine, are heavier, and do not 
grow to such a thickness; but where they flourish, 
the land is reckoned very good to raise corn. 

There are several species of fir-trees, which rise 
to a great height, are excellently calculated for 
masts, as well as every sort of carpenter’s work. 

There are two sorts of cedars too, the white and 
red, the former of which grows the thickest, and the 
odour is in its leaves; whereas, in the latter, the 
odour is in the wood, and far more agreeable. Of 
these trees the Canadians make palings, but mostly 
shingles for covering their houses, from its extreme 
lightness. 

All over Canada are two sorts of oak; the white 
grows in low swampy grounds, the red in dry sandy 
lands. 

There are three sorts of walnuts; the hard, the 
soft, and another with a thin bark. The hard sort 
bear a small nut, very good to eat, but apt to occa- 
sion costiveness, the wood of which is only fit to 
burn. The tender bears a large fruit, with a hard 
shell, the kernels of which are excellent: the wood 


Qn 





THROUGH AMERICA 53 


of this tree is singularly curious, being almost in- 
corruptible in water or in the ground, and difficult 
to consume in the fire: of this wood the Canadians 
make their coffins. The third sort produces a nut 
which is exceedingly bitter, but yields an excellent 
oil, used by the inhabitants for their lamps. 

Beech and elm trees are in great abundance; and 
in the thickest woods are found vast numbers of 
cherry and plumb-trees. 

There are an infinite number of others, but as I 
am no Botanist, you will pardon my giving an ac- 
count of what is here in such variety, that persons 
who have taken the most unremitting pains to dis- 
cover them, have not been capable of describing 
_half their number, I shall conclude this heavy de- 
tail of trees, with that of the maple, which boasts of 
many excellent qualities. 

The maple tree yields in great quantities a liquor 
which is cool and refreshing, with an agreeable 
flavor. The Canadians make a sugar of it, a very 
good pectoral, and used for coughs. There are 
many trees that yield a liquor they can convert into 
sugar, but none in such abundance as the maple. 
You will no doubt be surprized to find, in Canada, 
what Virgil predicted of the Golden Age, Et dure 
guercus sudabunt roscida mella. 

The stock of the farming part of the inhabitants 
in this province, consists generally of about a score 
or two of sheep, ten or twelve cows, and five or six 
oxen for the plough; the cattle are small but ex- 
cellent, and the people, since they have been under 


54 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the English Government, live in a degree of ease 
and happiness unknown to the country people in 
England, and are now improving their farms and 
enriching themselves very fast. Before the com- 
mencement of the war, they used to export vast 
quantities of wheat and all sorts of grain, to thé 
other provinces and the West India islands; but 
- when under the French Government, they were 
so oppressed by their Seigneurs, that they never 
raised more grain than would serve themselves and 
the stock on their farms; whenever they did, it was 
generally claimed by the Seigneurs for the use of 
Government. The Canadiaris were at that time 
a very indolent set of people: now they reap the 
sweets of their industry, and are quite the reverse. _ 

I went yesterday to view the Fall of Montmo- — 
rency, which is really beautiful. The breadth of it 
is not above ten or twelve yards, and its perpendic- 
ular height one hundred and twenty feet; by the 
violent fall of such an immense body of water, there 
is always a thick fog of vapors, which occasions a 
continual rain, for some distance round the bottom. 
Anxious to examine it as minutely as possible, I ap- 
proached within twelve yards of the Fall, when a 
sudden gust of wind blew such a thick fog off the 
spray, that in less than a minute I was as wet as if 
I had walked half an hour in a heavy shower, which, 
however, did not prevent my endeavouring to sat- 
isfy my curiosity, for I persevered, in hopes of ac- 
complishing my wish, which, like many of our ar- 
dent pursuits, did not bring me that recompence 


THROUGH AMERICA 55 


I had flattered myself it would; for having obtained 
the purport of my intention, instead of the beauti- 
ful appearance I had pictured to my imagination, 
to be discerned between the rock and the immense 
body of water that was falling from such a prodi- 
gious height, I found myself enveloped in a very 
thick fog of spray, scarcely able to see my hand 
when extended, and where, in all probability, if I 
had continued five minutes, and the wind changed, 
I was in danger of being drowned. The noise oc- 
casioned by the fall was so great, that an officer 
who was with me was obliged to speak as loud as 
he could, to make me understand any thing he said. 
It is sometimes heard at Quebec, which is two 
leagues distant to the southward, and when that is 
the case, it is the sign of an approaching strong 
north-east wind. 

One thing remarkable is, that this plentiful fall 
of water, which never dries up, one would imagine, 
must proceed from some fine river: but it is quite 
the reverse, it being only a puny stream, which in 
some places is scarcely sufficient to cover the ankle; 
it flows, however, constantly, and derives its source 
from a pleasant lake, twelve leagues distant from 
the falls. 

I have visited the plains of Abraham, to see the 
remains of the enemy’s encampment, and could not 
help contrasting those who had so lately abandoned 
that place, with the possessors of it when the brave 
Wolfe fell! Nor was it possible to suppress a sigh 
to the memory of that gallant officer, who, at so 


56 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


early a period in life, had acquired the esteem and 
admiration of all mankind. While in the very arms 
of death, he added glory and conquest to the Brit- 
ish empire. 

Nor could I help lamenting, at the same time, the 
fate of an officer of considerable merit, though an 
enemy, the brave Montgomery, who commanded 
the troops that had so lately abandoned this en- 
campment, and of whom I have already spoken: he 
possessed all the fire of military ardor, rushed with 
impatience in the front of every danger, and met 
his death, “‘e’en at the cannon’s mouth,” where he 
unfortunately fell a sacrifice to mistaken principles, 
unnatural rebellion, and the ambitious views of 
a few designing men. — His courage and death 
would have done honor to a better cause. | 

The people in this city are making preparations 
for the winter, and you would think it impossible 
they could consume the amazing rafts of timber 
that are already floated down the river; but I am 
informed they are a very inconsiderable part of 
what are expected. — It is not in the least surpriz- 
ing they were obliged to pull down houses for fuel 
last winter, during the siege. 

Europeans must form a terrible idea of the in- 
tense cold of this country, from the preparations 
the Canadians take to guard against it; for the 
inhabitants are pasting paper round their windows, 
and every crevice where they imagine the least cold 
will penetrate. | 

Instead of fire-places they make use of iron 


THROUGH AMERICA 57 


stoves, which must be extremely unhealthy; a few 
days since I went into a room when there was a 
fire in one of them, and had not been there above 
five minutes, when I was seized with a most intol- 
erable head-ach, which I can only attribute to the 
sulphureous air that proceeds from these stoves; 
and, for my own part, imagine they are the occa- 
sion of the Canadians having such sallow complex- 
ions; but custom, which in some measure over- 
comes all prejudices, will no doubt reconcile me to 
them. 

The ships are all preparing to sail for England, 
lest the river should freeze up. 

I have been this afternoon upon the ramparts, 
to see the Apollo frigate drop down, in which 
General Burgoyne sails for England; who, I am 
persuaded, has the sincere and ardent wishes of all 
ranks in the army, for his safety and happy arrival. 
The General joins to the dignity of office, and strict 
attention to military discipline, that considera- 
tion, humanity, and mildness of manners, which 
must ever endear him to all who have the happiness 
to be under his command; for my own part, I shall 
pray with Shakespear, “that the winds of all the 
corners may kiss the sails, and make his vessel 
prosperous.” 

I remained on the ramparts to take the last look 
of the Apollo, who, with a steady and favourable 
breeze, sailed magnificently down the river, and 
was soon out of sight. You cannot guess how it af- 
fected me; shall I confess that more than once I 


53 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


wished myself on board her: it was such a sight as 
must awaken the mind to all its natural attach- 
ments. But that I may not think too much of 
country and friends, at this time, I shall hastily 
conclude myself, 

Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 59 


Peele bs Rox 


Montreal, November 16th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


FTER a tedious march of near three weeks, 

which for a young soldier is a pretty good 
initiation into the toils of his profession, I am safe 
arrived at this place. 

As we could not march many miles in a day, 
through the severity of the weather, bad roads, and 
the shortness of the days, I am enabled to give you 
some little description of the country between this 
city and Quebec. 

Both sides of the river are very well settled, 
which affords a pleasing prospect. The farms 
mostly lie close to the water-side, and at some dis- 
tance from each other, so that each farmer has his 
possessions entirely distinct from those of his neigh- 
bour’s. But had an edict, which was passed in the 
year 1745, when this province was under the French 
Government, been observed, it would have been 
one continued street from Quebec to this place, as it 
forbade the Canadians from extending their plan- 
tations more than an acre and a half in front, and 
thirty or forty acres in depth; by which means in- 
dolent heirs would not have waited for the inher- 
itance of their fathers, as they would have been 
under the necessity of forming new plantations, 
and such vast spaces of wood would no OES! have 
separated them from each other. 


60 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


But whether that indolence they then possessed 
proceeded from nature, or the rigor of their Gov- 
ernment, they seem now to have entirely lost it, 
and are become more industrious; as I perceived, 
in many places, they were clearing away the woods 
to form new plantations. 

Most of the farm houses are built of stone, con- 
sisting of three or four rooms, which are heated 
with a stove, nearly upon the same construction as 
those I described to you. Some of them have or- 
chards annexed, though in general they are with- 
out such an accommodation, but all have exceed- 
ing good kitchen gardens. 

Every three leagues there is a church, with a kind 
of little village, consisting of the parsonage, the 
auberge, the school for boys and girls, and a few 
houses belonging to tradesmen, those but few in- 
deed, and so thinly scattered, that it scarcely gives 
you the idea of a village. Trade is considered by 
any descendant of the zoblesse a disgrace, yet there 
are few inhabitants but what claim some affinity to 
one Seigneur or another, who, though they think it 
no derogation to plough, sow, and reap upon their 
plantations, deem it ignominious in the extreme, to 
be a mechanic or tradesman. Notwithstanding 
which, I was much surprized to find, that the prin- 
cipal inhabitant in each village, who generally be- 
longs to some noblesse, was the post-master, and 
kept the only Auberge in the place; nay, did not 
think his nobility offended, with providing horses 
and entertaining travellers, which I remember. to 


= 


THROUGH AMERICA 61 


have heard you say is the case in many parts of 
Italy. 

Between each church, or village, there are sev- 
eral crosses put up on the road-side, parallel to the 
shores of the river, and which are common through- 
out Canada. They are made of wood, about fifteen 
or twenty feet high, and proportionably broad: In 
that side towards the road is a square hole, in which 
they place some wax images, either of our Saviour 
on the cross, or of the holy Virgin, with the child in 
her arms, and before that, a piece of glass to pre- 
vent its being injured by the weather. These 
crosses are ornamented with all the instruments 
they think the Jews employed in crucifying our 
Saviour, such as the hammer, tongs, nails, a flask 
of vinegar, with many more things than one would 
suppose were really made use of, or even invented; 
and frequently the figure of a cock is placed at the. 
top, which appeared to me rather singular, as it 
could have not the least affinity to the crucifix- 
ion, and must rather be supposed an allusion 
to the cock’s crowing when St. Peter denied our 
Saviour. . 

These crosses, however good the intention of 
erecting them may be, are continually the causes of 
great delays in travelling, which to persons not 
quite so superstitiously disposed as the Canadians, 
are exceedingly unpleasant in cold weather; for 
whenever the drivers of the calashes, which are 
open, and nearly similar to your one horse chaises, 
come to one of them, they alight, either from their 


62 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


horses or carriage, fall on their knees, and repeat a 
long prayer, let the weather be ever so severe. 

The usual mode of travelling is in these calashes: 
in the front of those which travel post, a man sits 
to drive, and who, let your business be of ever so 
great importance, will alight at these crosses, and 
pay his accustomed homage. 

One day, on our march, being sent forward to 
procure quarters, with our friend Captain Grattan, 
whose pleasantry of manners you are well ac- 
quainted with; for expedition we went in a post- 
calash. The weather was so excessively severe, that 
with the assistance of fur coverings, we could 
scarcely keep ourselves warm. Not above a mile 
had been beguiled, before we came to one of these 
crosses, when the fellow who drove us stopped; 
upon asking him why he did so, he replied, Ce n’est 
que pour faire une petite priére; which petite priére 
he was nearly five minutes in repeating, when he 
mounted his seat. We complained of being almost 
perished with cold, when he replied, 4//ons, allons, 
je vais me depécher,and after taking two or three 
_whiffs of his pipe, whipped up his horses, and made 
amends for his stopping. We had not gone a mile 
and a half further, before another cross made its 
unwelcome appearance: here he must alight, and 
faire une autre petite priere, which, upon our not 
consenting to, he begged we would let him just stop, 
le tems defaire un signe de croix, which he was not 
long about. We then jogged on again with great 
chearfulness, as he drove pretty fast; soon after we 





THROUGH AMERICA 63 


perceived the village to which we were destined for 
quarters, when again he suddenly stopt, and upon 
our saying there was no cross there, he immedi- 
ately cried out, Mais en voici une la, which, being 
at some distance from the road, we had not ob- 
served, requesting us to let him halt but a moment: 
Il faut que je descende ict; c'est mon village; we told 
him he should not, and that he must drive into the 
village as fast as he could. Upon this he growled 
inwardly, and complained openly, till he came op- 
posite to it, where he stopped again; before he could 
descend, our friend Grattan laid hold of his long 
queue, of which I told you they are exceedingly 
proud, and declared, if he did not immediately 
drive on, he would instantly cut it off.— This being 
asserted with some degree of warmth, he thought 
fit to sacrifice his religion to his vanity, so just 
crossing himself, muttered a short prayer, and 
drove us as fast as he could to the end of our jour- 
ney, sacrant contre the English officers; and I do 
not doubt, if one could form any idea from his coun- 
tenance, but he sent us both into purgatory with 
such curses, that all the masses which could be of- 
fered would not be able to release us from it, for 
having treated his religion and his queue with so 
little ceremony. 

Leaving you to make your own reflections on 
these Canadians and their religion, I remain, 

Yours, &c. 


64 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LET PER xd 


Montreal, Nov. 20th, 1776 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


SHALL now proceed with my observations, 

and the remainder of the occurrences which 
happened in our march from Quebec to this 
place. 

About half way between Quebec and Montreal, 
is a town called Trois Rivieres; it takes its name 
from three rivers, whose currents join here, and 
fall into the river St. Laurence. Previous to my 
giving you any description of this place, permit me 
to relate a trifling circumstance that occurred, just 
as we entered the town. About half a mile before 
we came to it, so sudden and nauseous a scent as- 
sailed our olfactory nerves, as nearly to suffocate 
us, which lasted till we arrived at the outskirts. — 
Upon enquiry, we found it arose from an animal, 
which the Canadians call the Enfant du Diable, or 
béte puante; a title which it derives from its ill scent, 
occasioned by discharging his urine whenever he is 
attacked, and which infects the air for a great dis- 
tance. Laying aside this quality, it is in other re- 
spects a beautiful creature, being about the size of a 
cat, with a fine shining fur, of a dark grey color, 
streaks of white glistening from the head to the 
tail, which is bushy, like that of a fox, and turned 
up as a squirrel’s: this had been pursued by some 
dogs which the soldiers had with them, across the 


THROUGH AMERICA 65 


road, but whenit camenear us, its stench was almost 
insupportable. 

These Enfans du Diable differ from your Enfans 
du Diable, the London beaux, who have all their 
prettyisms perhaps, but are eternally exhaling their 
pestiferous odours, fearful, if they reserved them 
till pursued, they would have no opportunity to 


“Taint the flying air, and stink in state.” 


The country is pleasant, and there are several 
good houses about the town, but they were greatly 
damaged by the Americans, upon abandoning it, 
after their defeat this summer, when their army 
was routed, and several of their Generals, with 
great numbers of their men, taken prisoners. This 
place is the winter cantonments of the German 
troops, who are commanded by General Riedesel; 
he commands likewise the district between Quebec 
and Montreal. 

This town, by reason of the three rivers, used to 
be much frequented by the several nations of In- 
dians, and was built with a view of encouraging 
trade with the northern ones in particular. It had 
every prospect of being the second city in the prov- 
ince, but the fur trade was soon diverted from this 
market, and carried entirely to Montreal, it being 
some leagues nearer to the Indians; and though we 
have several trading places with them upon the 
lakes Ontario and Superior, Montreal will always 
support its consequence, as being the nearest and 
most convenient place for shipping the furs to Eng- 


66 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


land. Trois Rivieres has now lost all its traffic and 
is supported chiefly by the travellers passing be- 
tween the two cities. 

There are several churches, and two convents, 
the nuns of which are reckoned the most ingenious 
of any in Canada, in all kinds of fancy ornaments, 
needle work, and curious toys. 

During my stay at Trois Rivieres, there came 
down from the ///inois, several Indians of that na- 
tion, with an interpreter, to acquaint us, that they 
would be down in the spring, and would take up the 
hatchet in favor of “their good Brother who resided 
beyond the great waters.” Among the groupe I ob- 
served one, who had hanging round his neck the 
image of the holy Virgin, with our Saviour in her 
arms, which I thought very singular, as he was of a 
nation esteemed extremely ferocious in their man- 
ner, and whom the French Missionaries could not 
convert; but upon my enquiring of the interpreter 
if he knew the reason, he gave me the following 
account: 

In some skirmish, when the J//imois were at war 
with the Canadians, this image had fallen into their 
hands, amongst other plunder. Sometime after- 
wards as a Missionary, of which the French had 
great numbers travelling through the interior parts 
of Canada, to cultivate friendship, and establish 
their religion among the Indians; by chance he met 
this person, and observing the image, was very 
much astonished; the manner in which he took no- 
tice of it, excited the curiosity of the poor savage, 





THROUGH AMERICA 67 


to know what it represented, when the Missionary, 
who no doubt was pleased to have such an oppor- 
tunity of displaying his religion, told him, that it 
represented the mother of his God, and that the 
child she held in her arms represented God him- 
self, who had made himself man for the salvation 
of the human species, and explaining to him the 
mystery of our incarnation, assuring him, that 
in all dangers the Christians addressed them- 
selves to this holy mother, who seldom failed to 
extricate them. The Indian listened with the 
utmost attention to this discourse, and went 
away. 

Being out a hunting, soon after this, just as he 
had discharged his piece at a deer, one of the Outa- 
gami Indians, whose nation was at variance with 
the [//inois, and who was lying in ambush, pre- 
sented his piece at his head. In this situation he 
recollected what had been told him about the 
mother of God, and invoked her protection. The 
Outggami endeavoured to discharge his piece, but 
missed; he cocked a second time, and the same 
’ thing happened five times successively. In the in- 
terim the J//inois had loaded his piece, and pre- 
sented it to the Outagami, who chose rather to sur- 
render than be shot. From that time the J//inois 
would never stir from his village without his safe- 
guard, which he imagines renders him invulnerable. 
There can remain little doubt but this circum- 
stance was the means of his conversion to Chris- 
tianity, and the Romish religion: for he has cer- 


68 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


tainly embraced that persuasion, as I followed him 
to the great church, where, upon his entrance, after 
crossing himself with the holy water, he fell upon 
his knees, and seemed to worship with as much de- 
votion as the most devout of the Canadians. But 
to return to my description of this place. 

The road from Quebec hither is the whole way 
within sight of the river, being mostly upon its 
banks, which renders it extremely pleasant to trav- 
ellers, especially in the summer, as there is a con- 
stant breeze. 

The river from Quebec to Trois Rivieres is very 
wide, and at that place it forms a very large lake, 
called St. Pierre, where the eye cannot reach across; 
you can only discern a large body of water, with 
several islands, which, with the small vessels sail- 
ing between them, form a very romantic prospect. 
The tide comes no farther than this lake, terminat- 
ing a few leagues beyond Trois Rivieres, when you 
meet with the river again, where it runs extremely 
rapid, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour. 
At its first appearance you can hardly suppose it 
the same river, for where the tide has effect, it sel- 
dom runs more than four miles an hour; it increases 
in rapidity as you advance to Montreal, and oppo- 
site the city it runs almost ten miles an hour, which 
renders its navigation extremely difficult, as noth- 
ing but a very strong and favourable wind, with 
all the sails full set, can enable vessels to stem the 
current. What with unfavourable winds and light 
breezes, ships have been as long in getting up from 





THROUGH AMERICA 69 


Trois Rivieres to Montreal, as they were on their 
passage from England to Quebec. 

The rapidity of the current makes crossing not 
only disagreeable, but very dangerous, for unless 
you have a skilful pilot, the current will carry you a 
league below where you want to land. And yet it is 
surprizing, how expert the Canadians are with their 
wooden canoes; but the Indians far exceed them in 
working theirs, as their canoes are of a much lighter 
construction. Both being much used in this coun- 
try, I shall endeavour to describe them, that you 
may be able to form some idea of what they are. 

Those which the Canadians use, are called 
wooden ones, being hollowed out of the red elm, 
some of which are so large, as to contain twenty 
persons. 

Those which the Indians use, are made of the 
bark of the birch tree, and distinguished by: the 
name of birch canoes, the different parts of which 
they sew together with the inner rind of the bark 
of the tree, and daub them over with a pitch, or 
rather a bituminous matter, resembling pitch, to 
prevent their leaking. They form the ribs from the 
boughs of the hickory tree, and are constructed of 
different dimensions, some being only large enough 
to contain two persons, and others thirty. 

These canoes are easily managed by the Indians 
with their paddles, and with the current go at a 
prodigious rate, for one single stroke with the pad- 
dle will force them twice the length of the canoe 
against it. It was with one of these birch canoes 


70 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


that General Carleton, with an Aid-de-Camp, 
made their escape through the enemy’s fleet, when 
he quitted Montreal, for the purpose of putting 
Quebec in a better state of defence. 

Unwilling to lose the opportunity of sending this 
by an officer who is going to Quebec, I am obliged 
to put a period to this letter: and, no doubt, upon 
the perusal of it, you will easily discover the young 
traveller, who is diverted with every thing that 
presents itself to his view. But in hopes that it may 
afford you half an hour’s amusement, I remain, 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 7 


Pb tl ER XT 1 


Montreal, November 26th, 1776 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

EFORE I describe to you this city, let me give 
you some account of the island on which it 
stands, and from whence it derives its name. 

This island, which measures ten leagues in length 
and about four in breadth, is formed by the river 
St. Laurence, and in the center of it are two large 
mountains, which are the first you meet with on 
the north side of St. Laurence, and were called 
by the first discoverers of this province, Monts 
Royaux, which gave name to the island, afterwards 
Mont Royal, and at last, by a variety of corruptions 
of the language, Montreal. 

Of all the adjacent countries, there is no place 
where the climate is reckoned to be so mild, so 
pleasant, and the soil so fruitful: with all these nat- 
ural blessings, is it not surprizing to see it thinly 
inhabited, and very ill settled, for except two or 
three miles round the city, the country is mostly 
woods, interspersed with a few small plantations. 

One thing not a little remarkable is, that this 
island contains a smaller one of about three miles in 
length, and two and a half in breadth, formed by 
two inlets of St. Laurence. This little island, which 
is called the Is/e de Jesus, is almost cleared from 
woods, and has a small church and a few houses on 
it, rendering Montreal extremely pleasant; being so 


7 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


situated, that you cannot go a great length in any 
direction, before you come to it; and surely, after 
travelling through woods and swamps, it affords a 
most pleasing relief. 

The summit of the mountains I have described 
to you are extremely difficult to gain; but having 
once accomplished it, the delightful prospect that 
presents itself, amply compensates for the fatigue 
and dangers you encounter, being able to view the 
whole island, and several leagues round it. You 
can plainly discern the mountains that cross Lake 
Champlain, called the Green Mountains, which are 
near 60 miles distant. It appears generally a vast 
forest, there being only three objects to diversify 
the scene: the view of the city of Montreal, the 
river St. Laurence, and the mountains of Chamblée, 
which are exceedingly beautiful, and the more re- 
markable, being in a plain level country, and not 
having a single hill for several leagues round them; 
they are considerably loftier than the mountains 
on this island. 

This city forms an oblong square, divided by 
regular, well formed streets, and the houses in gen- 
eral are well built; there are several churches, but 
those, as well as many of the houses have felt the 
effects of this war. 

The city is surrounded by a wall and dry ditch, 
and at one end there is a citadel. These fortifica- 
tions were raised many years past, as a defence 
against the Indians, and since the war, great im- 
provements have been made to them; but the city 


THROUGH AMERICA 73 


is so situated, that no works can be raised to enable 
it to stand a regular siege, having many rising 
grounds, that command it in more places than one. 

When we gained possession of this province, 
Montreal was nearly as large as Quebec, but since 
that time it has suffered much by fire; it is greatly 
to be wondered at, that it has not, one time or 
other, been totally destroyed: for in the winter, 
when the inhabitants go to bed, they make great 
fires in their stoves, and leave them burning all 
night, by which means they are frequently red hot 
before morning. Imagine how dangerous they must 
have been, when their houses were constructed of 
wood; few of those are now remaining, except in 
the outskirts of the city, the greatest part of them 
being built of stone. 

The inhabitants here, as well as those of Quebec, 
having so many times suffered by fire, construct 
their buildings in such a manner, that they are not 
only perfectly secure against that element, but 
even against house-breakers, which being a little 
singular, you will have no objection to my describ- 
ing them. 

The house consists of one lofty floor, built with 
stone, and the apartments are divided by such 
thick walls, that should a fire happenin one of them, 
it cannot communicate to any other: the top of the 
house being covered with a strong arch, if the roof 
which is over it should catch fire, it cannot damage 
the interior part of the house. At Quebec, that city 
having been so often besieged, the inhabitants who 


74 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


are now building at that place, make this arch 
bomb-proof. 

Each apartment has a double door, the inner one 
of wood, and the outer one of iron, which is only 
shut when the family retire to rest; the windows 
have double shutters of the same materials, and 
they have not only taken this precaution with the 
doors that lead out of the house, but added an iron 
one, which is fixed on the inside. ; 

These doors and shutters are made of plate iron, 
near half an inch thick, which, perhaps, you will 
imagine, must give the house a very disagreeable 
appearance, but it is far otherwise, for being mostly 
painted green, they afford a pleasing contrast to 
the whiteness o7 the house. 

This is the busy time of the merchants belonging 
to this place, who are now using all possible ex- 
pedition in sending home their furs, before the win- 
ter sets in. The reason assigned for deferring it till 
so late in the season, is on account of the traders, 
some of whom are but just arrived from the upper 
countries, the merchants generally waiting as long 
as there is a possibility of their return, and some- 


times so long in expectation of them, as to lose their 


markets entirely. 

These traders, in the course of their voyages, are 
continually encountering hardships and difficulties, 
and their lives are frequently in imminent danger: 
— nothing can counterbalance the great perils that 
await them, but the certainty of acquiring an am- 
ple fortune in the course of three or four voyages. 


a 


THROUGH AMERICA 7 


They set out in the spring of the year, in parties 
of about twenty or thirty persons, with perhaps 
eight or ten large birch canoes; they have no fixed 
course to take, but steer that where it is imagined 
they can meet with a tribe of Indians; keeping 
mostly upon the upper lakes, sometimes carrying . 
their goods and canoes across rapids, which are 
parts of the river greatly quickened by the descents, 
and over land to a river, up which they will pro- 
ceed many leagues. If they do not meet with any 
Indians, it obliges them to return again to the lake, 
and proceed westward. 

The goods they take with them to barter for skins, 
consist chiefly of brandy, tobacco, a sort of duffil 
blanket, guns, powder and balls, kettles, hatchets 
and tomahawks, as likewise looking-glasses, vermil- 
lion and various other paints; and according to any 
article that an Indian has a desire or an use for, he 
will give ten times its value in skins. They are most 
eager after powder, ball, paint, brandy and tobacco. 

These traders traverse vast lakes and rivers with 
incredible industry and patience, carrying their | 
goods among nations in the remotest parts of Amer- 
ica. They are generally absent from their families 
about three years, before their departure make a 
will, and settle all their affairs, many of them, with 
their whole party, having been put to death by the 
Indians, either for the stores they carry with them, 
or to revenge the death of some of their nation, who 
has been killed by the bursting of a gun that has 
been sold to them, which is frequently the case, 


76 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


they being by no means proof. The Indians do 
not wait for those traders who sold the gun, but 
take their revenge upon the first they meet with. 
Here I must observe to you, that the guns which 
are sold to the Indians are fitted up in a very neat 
manner, to attract the notice of these poor crea- 
tures, and frequently, after having been fired five 
or six times, they burst, and the unfortunate pur- 
chaser is either killed, or loses an hand or an arm. 
These traders are certainly the best judges, but I 
cannot help thinking it both cruel and impolitic. 

It having been hinted, that a reward would be 
given to him who should discover a north-west pas- 
sage, or whether the Continent joins to India, two 
suppositions much credited by the Europeans in 
general, several of the traders have endeavoured to 
find which is the true one: as there is every year 
some fresh discovery made, there remains but little 
doubt that in some future time it will be effected. I 
believe the farthest that any of them have yet 
reached was a Mr. Henry, who is reported to have 
travelled for ten days upon a large plain, on which 
grew only a rank-grass, nearly as high as a man’s 
breast, and on this plain he frequently met with 
immense droves of buffaloes, and observed the 
tracks of several others; that on the eleventh day 
he came to a vast river, which stopped his progress, 
as he did not chuse to venture crossing in a canoe; 
that the water was quite salt, and run extremely 
rapid, from which circumstance he concluded there 
must be a north-west passage. 


THROUGH AMERICA ~ 


Whether it is so or not, it is to be hoped that 
when this unhappy contest is ended, Government 
may think it a matter worthy their consideration, 
and fit out an expedition for ascertaining it, as the 
discovery would not only be of great importance 
to England, but to all the world. As we have al- 
ready made such great and wonderful discoveries 
in the South Seas, surely this will be deemed of 
sufficient importance to justify the expence of fit- 
ting out proper persons from England to investi- 
gate the fact. 

If after so many fruitless attempts, some one 
should appear, whose firm mind will rise superior 
to every sense of danger, encountering variety of 
hardships, and whose patience is not exhausted by 
their duration; if such a one, animated with a hope 
of glory, which alone teaches men to disregard life, 
rendering them equal to the greatest undertakings; 
who, being well informed, so as to understand what 
he sees, and of veracity enough to relate only what 
he has seen — if such a man should appear, and no 
doubt there are many who possess these excellent 
and extraordinary qualifications, his researches will 
perhaps be crowned with better success. But, if 
after such an undertaking, this celebrated passage 
should still remain concealed, it must be concluded, 
either that it doth not exist, or is not given to man 
to discover. 

I add nothing more to this letter, fearful of losing 
its conveyance, therefore remain 

Yours, &c. 


78 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


| Ba cont Rid Res Dd Se fa Bi 


Montreal, Nov. 30th, 1776 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

FEW days ago, [I made a visit to our friend 

Shlagell of the 21st regiment, at St. John’s, 
where he is stationed for the winter. I cannot but 
say I was much pleased with the place, it having all 
the appearance of a dock-yard, and of being equally 
as busy. The fleet that was upon the Lake is re- 
pairing, as likewise several of the vessels that we 
took from the Americans; they are laid up in docks, 
to preserve them from the inclemencies of the win- 
ter, and by the ensuing spring, what with the ships 
we had before, and those we have since taken from 
the Americans, we shall have a fleet far superior to 
any they can possibly bring on the Lakes. 

There are two schooners here, the Carleton and 
Maria, which were built in England upon a con- 
struction to take into pieces, in order to be trans- 
ported across a carrying-place of about two miles. 
After their sailing from England to the mouth of 
the rapids, which prevented their proceeding up to 
St. John’s, rather than lose the time of taking them 
to pieces, and re-constructing them, Lieutenant 
Schank, of the navy, an ingenious officer, informed 
General Carleton, that they might be conveyed 
upon a cradle over land to St. John’s, entire, pro- 
vided there was a good road made for them. The 
General acquiesced in this gentleman’s proposal, 


THROUGH AMERICA 79 


and the whole army were employed in making a 
road. One of the vessels was near half a mile on it, 
by means of cables fixed to windlasses every twenty 
yards; but the General perceiving this mode of 
conveyance would take up more time than the 
other, gave orders to have the schooners taken to 
pieces and rebuilt, which was accomplished in as 
short a space of time as they had been creeping 
that small distance upon land. 

Our naval force being far inferior to what the 
Americans had this summer upon the Lakes, it was 
deemed necessary to encrease it. The ship-wrights © 
were instantly employed to build a frigate, and the 
army in cutting the timber for it, which is now as 
complete a vessel as any in the King’s service. [am 
afraid you will think I usurp the privilege of a 
traveller, when I tell you that this frigate was con- 
structed in so short a time, that in eight and twenty 
days after her keel was laid she was in action; and 
what was still more wonderful, there were only six- 
teen ship-wrights to build her, one of whom was, on 
the third day, so badly wounded with an adze, as 
to be of little service. 

You may easily imagine how great must have 
_ been the astonishment of the Americans when she 
came upon the Lakes, knowing we had no such ship 
when they abandoned St. John’s. Notwithstand- 
ing this, they fought their fleet bravely, and our 
new-built vessel, by the falling of the wind, bore 
but a partial part of the engagement, the stress 
laying upon the Carleton and Maria schooners, 


80 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


which were both much shattered. On board the 
latter was General Carleton, who had a very nar- 
row escape, a cannon shot passing close by him as 
he was giving directions to an officer, and which 
the General with that coolness and intrepidity that 
so much distinguishes his character, took no notice 
of, but turning round, gave his orders with as much 
composure as if he had been in the most perfect 
state of security. 

This place, which is called the key to Canada, 
when the works are compleated, will be of great 
strength; there are temporary barracks at present, 
both for soldiers and artificers. The old barracks, 
as well as the fort the Americans destroyed when 
they abandoned the place, were formerly quite sur- 
rounded with woods, but are now clear for some 
distance round. 

In order that you may form a just idea of this 
important place, I have enclosed you a drawing of 
it, representing the two redoubts, with the rope- 
walk, the ship on the stocks, and the other vessels 
at anchor near the fort, and which I have taken 
from the block-house erected on the opposite side 
of the river Sorell. 

From this place I went to the Isle au Noix, which 
is the advanced post of the army, on which the 2oth 
regiment is stationed. This island is about a mile 
and a half in length, and three quarters of a mile in 
breadth; it was entirely covered with wood, but at 
present greatly cleared, and before the winter is 
over, we imagine it will be entirely so. Although 


THROUGH AMERICA 81 


so late in the year, and in this severe climate, the 
regiment stationed there is encamped, and likely to 
continue so till after Christmas, as it will be that 
time before the block-houses intended for them are 
finished. 

Block-houses not being generally known in Eng- 
land, shall be my apology for giving you a descrip- 
tion of them. They are constructed of timbers, 
placed one on the other, of a sufficient thickness to 
resist a musquet shot, and large enough to contain 
from 100 to 120 men; there are two apartments in 
them, one above the other, in the upper of which is 
a division for the officers. In both the lower and 
upper apartments are two pieces of cannon and 
four port-holes, for the purpose of pointing these 
cannon on any side of the block-house on which it 
may be attacked; and in case an enemy should in 
the night endeavour to set fire to the house, there 
are loop-holes, through which the troops on the in- 
side can level their pieces and fire upon the assail- 
ants. They are reckoned to be a very strong de- 
fence, as it has been known that a small party of 
men, in one of these block-houses, have repulsed 
treble their own number. But that you may more 
fully comprehend the construction of these un- 
usual fortifications, I have inclosed a drawing and 
section of one of them for your inspection. 

The soldiers, not only at the Isle au Noix, but 
likewise at St. John’s, have been very subject to 
the scurvy, not having any other than salt pro- 
visions, but by drinking plentifully of spruce beer, 


82 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


they are now all in perfect health, which clearly 
proves that liquor to be a powerful antiscorbutic. 
It is so much known in England, as to need no 
description; the only difference between the spruce 
there and here is, that here it is made with the 
branches of the tree itself, and there with the es- 
sence. 

As the severity of the weather shuts up all inter- 
course by letters, this is the last you may expect to 
receive from me till the frost breaks up. But though 
I cannot write to you, be assured I shall continually 
think of you, and remain, with the greatest esteem 
and sincerity, 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 83 


Pere IE Rex LV 


Montreal, Fanuary 18th, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


DID not expect to have written so soon, but an 

opportunity of a flag of truce, which is going by 
the way of Ticonderoga to New-York, unexpect- 
edly occurring, I am happy to embrace it, espe- 
cially when it is impossible for me to employ my 
leisure hours more satisfactory to myself, than in 
endeavouring to divert you. I shall therefore pro- 
ceed to give you some account of the winter amuse- 
ments of this place, and among the principal ones 
is that of carioling upon the ice, the inhabitants 
making large parties every day for that purpose; 
they generally go to Point aux Trembles, about 
three leagues from this city, at which place resides 
a Dutch woman, who makes most excellent sau- 
sages, and at whose house it is customary to refresh 
with these and bottled porter. As the north wind 
generally blows very sharp, you acquire a pretty 
good appetite, and, for my own part, I enjoyed this 
petit repas in preference to my dinner, very few 
regimental messes being conducted with that pro- 
priety and decorum which should characterize the 
profession, as there are generally among them a set 
of ungovernable young men. But to return to my 
description of carioling. 

You will no doubt think it too much to go nine 
miles and back again for a jaunt before dinner; but 


84 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


this mode of travelling is so very expeditious, that 
most of the inhabitants defer their journey to Que- 
bec till this season of the year, as they can perform 
it with less difficulty, and much greater expedition. 

The carioles are fashioned after different de- 
vices, to imitate birds and beasts, but in general 
they are of one construction, with only this dif- 
ference, that the common people have theirs close 
upon the ice or snow, while those of their superiors 
are raised upon what are called runners, which ele- 
vate them about two feet. They paint them of va- 
rious fantastical colors; many of them, asa contrast 
to this season of the year, are colored in imitation 
of thunder and lightning. It is certainly a very 
easy and expeditious method of travelling, for the 
horses of the country will go with ease fifteen miles 
an hour upon the ice. The inhabitants think noth- 
ing of a journey of forty or fifty miles to see a 
friend, and returning the same day. 

Notwithstanding the river runs so rapid as I 
have before described, and is now entirely frozen 
over, yet there are certain warm springs that never 
will congeal; to caution travellers, every parish, as 
soon as the river is frozen over, is obliged to fix 
large pine trees in the ice, distant from each other 
about ten feet, which receiving moisture from the 
ice, and being an evergreen, continue so the whole 
winter, so that when travelling, it appears as if you 
were going between an avenue of firs. 

On each side of the river it is quite smooth, but 
in the center, where the current runs so rapid, the 


THROUGH AMERICA 8 


ice 1s thrown up in prodigious hills, through which 
the inhabitants are obliged to cut a passage to 
cross the river; the sides are frozen so as to bear 
carriages, long before the center, and when that 
freezes, no thunder can equal the noise, the reason 
of which you will easily imagine, for where these 
rapids are, the ice is thrown up in a continual suc- 
cession of hills; between these hills, you are sur- 
rounded with ice several yards high, and there it is 
inconceivably cold; when upon the top of one of 
these hills, you cannot help stopping to view the 
many curious forms the ice is thrown into, some of 
it being in that of a pyramid, other pieces that of a 
cone, others again in large slabs, and some of it re- 
sembling the figures of men, birds and beasts; in 
short, no description can equal so romantic a pros- 
pect. 

The Canadians have a very singular custom 
among them, at the commencement of the year, the 
men go round the city and salute the ladies, who 
sit up in state for three days for that purpose, and 
as the inhabitants are acquainted with each other, 
the lady is generally saluted by the greatest part 
of the men; the salutation is after the French fash- 
ion, upon the cheek, when having saluted one, the 
lady presents the other. 

The European ladies who are settled here, rather 
than appear singular, adopt this custom, only vary- 
ing the salutation after the English fashion; not but 
what I think the French mode preferable on this 
occasion, where the lady is under the necessity of 


86 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


receiving the salute of every one. As I know you 
will make this observation, I dare say he went his 
rounds, let me candidly acknowledge I did, and 
with another officer. We had a very great mortifi- 
cation in going to the house of an English merchant, 
who has a beautiful wife: upon our entering, we dis- 
puted who should salute her first; you may suppose 
how eager we both were in our addresses upon en- 
tering the room, and would have enjoyed our cha- 
grin, when we saw General Phillips there, whose 
departure must be waited for, before we could sa- 
lute the lady; perhaps you will say the pleasure 
was heightened by contemplating her charms — 
Prestat expectare. 

This being the first Catholic country I ever was 
in, you must suppose me particularly attentive to 
their religious ceremonies at Christmas. I had 
ever conceived, that most authors had greatly ex- 
ageerated their accounts upon that head, and had I 
not met with convincing proofs, my candor could 
not suppose that mankind were so weak in their 
understandings. That the lower class of people 
should be led away is not to be wondered at, but 
how men of learning, sound sense and good under- 
standing should, is to me astonishing. It is allow- 
able for every man to worship any thing symboli- 
cally, but their doing it in reality never can be 
admitted. These superstitious people implicitly | 
believe, the waxen images that are shewn them by 
their priests, to be absolutely the persons they are 
intended to represent. 


THROUGH AMERICA 87 


On Christmas Eve, I went to the great church, 
where there was a prodigious concourse of people, 
and got as near as I could to the altar, to observe 
the ceremonies. About nine o’clock the service be- 
gan with prayers and anthems, which lasted till ten, 
when the cradle was brought in, upon which there 
was a great shout; after this they continued singing 
and praying till the clock struck twelve, when the 
high priest brought in a wax figure of a child, su- 
perbly dressed, the music struck up, and there was 
a second great shouting. The child being deposited 
in the cradle, it was rocked till about one o’clock, 
when the ceremony finished. 

In some of the convents they are exceedingly 
curious in their wax images: there was a represen- 
tation of the Messiah, which was daily varied in 
its size, from the time of its supposed birth, till the 
time the Monks had fixed as necessary for its being | 
sufficiently grown to represent our Saviour, at the 
age he was when he preached in the Temple. When 
I first went to see this wax-work, on the Christmas- 
day, there was a figure of Joseph, dressed in a scar- 
let cloak, with a large tie wig, another to resemble 
the Virgin Mary with a little child, laying in a man- 
ger, and over it was the figure of an ox and an ass’s 
head, which are at the same time emblematical of 
their own stubbornness and stupidity. In a few 
days this representation was changed, and there 
was another of the Wise Men making their offerings 
to the Salvator Mundi; so continuing every remark- 
able event of his life, till the time of preaching in 


88 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the Temple; and whenever I went, there was al- 
ways a vast concourse of people upon their knees 
praying to these figures. This mode of religion ap- 
pears to me to be extremely well calculated to in- 
spire devotion in the lower class of people, yet it is 
great pity some better method of paying adoration 
to the Divine Being cannot be adopted to inspire a 
true sense of his existence, than means so absurd. 
Difference of opinion concerning religion ever will 
prevail, but lest you think I am growing too ser- 
monic, I shall conclude this subject with an ob- 
servation of a Monsieur Blondeaux, at whose house 
I am quartered, and who is a very sensible and in- 
telligent man. 

Conversing with him, one day, on their worship- 
ping these waxen images, and other ridiculous cere- 
monies in their religion, Monsieur, said he, Mon 
avis est que chacun dott suiore la religion pour laquelle 
il se sent plus d’inclination; et je suis assuré qu’au 
jour du jugement,on ne nous demandra pas quelle 
religion nous avons professée, mais que nous serons 
tous recompensés ou punis selon nos actions. 

As I informed you this goes by a flag of truce, 
it would be unpardonable to omit mentioning the 
humanity of General Carleton, who has cloathed 
all those who were taken prisoners, they being al- 
most in a state of nakedness; many of them he suf- 
fered to return to their homes upon their paroles of 
not bearing arms again during the war. Those who 
are here to be exchanged are cloathed, and fare the 
same as our own soldiers. 


THROUGH AMERICA 8g 


Fate can only determine whether I shall experi- 
ence the misfortune of being taken prisoner, but, if 
I should, it is my hope that I may not meet with 
worse treatment than these people have received. 

By the mode this will be conveyed, I am not cer- 
tain that it may reach you; but if it should, it brings 
you my best wishes for your health and happiness, 
and an assurance that I am, with great sincerity, 

Yours, &c. 


go INTERIOR TRAVELS 


5B) Eke RP RE at a Pe 


Montreal, Fanuary 28th, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


HE winter is now set in with great severity, 
and you would naturally conclude that this 
country is the most uncomfortable in the world, 
and its inhabitants the most unhappy, but far from 
it: the city and the country people around, seem to 
be perfectly in their element; there is nothing but 
carioling, feasting, and other amusements. The 
Canadians perfectly resemble the French with re- 
spect to dancing, having meetings at each other’s 
houses for that purpose almost every night. 

Though the weather is so severe, the inhabitants 
here never stay in doors in the day, unless it snows, 
which seldom happens, for the first fall is generally 
the only one they have, and that lasts for two or 
three days, after which the weather is settled, and 
has been extremely pleasant for this month past; 
excepting one day, there has been quite an Italian 
sky, not a cloud to be seen. 

The air of Canada is reckoned the most salu- 
brious and healthy of any in the world; yet not- 
withstanding this, the Canadians are very con- 
sumptive, and it is incredible what numbers of 
them die before they. arrive at maturity; if they 
survive that period, they mostly live to a good old 
age. 

A very eminent physician, Dr. Kennedy, who is 


THROUGH AMERICA gI 


with our army, attributes this entirely to the stoves 
they make use of in the winter, and that was any 
other mode of conveying warmth substituted, they 
would in all probability be a long lived people. For, 
says he, the inhabitants mostly keep their stoves 
heated, and in coming out of the fresh air to enter a 
room where there is one, you are almost suffocated. 
How pernicious this must be to the constitution, 
especially of the young children, who are contin- 
ually going in and out of the heated rooms into the 
snow and upon the ice; and when the lungs and 
pores are expanded by the heat of these stoves, 
run without any addition of cloathing into the cold, 
where the blood receives so sudden a change, that 
it generally leaves some fatal disorder upon the 
lungs. 

It is very difficult to eradicate long established 
prejudices and customs, but if the Canadians were 
to adopt the mode of other northern climates, where 
the cold is nearly as intense as it is here, I think 
they would experience the benefits arising from it. 

In Russia, Germany, and in all the northern 
parts upon the Continent in Europe, the inhabit- 
ants have stoves similar to the Canadians, but so 
constructed, that when the room is of a sufficient 
warmth, the front opens with two folding doors, 
where there is a good fire in a grate, and the sul- 
phureous air exhales up the funnel, by which means 
they enjoy an agreeable warmth; if they perceive it 
getting cold, they shut the doors for a little while, 
till the room is sufficiently heated. The Canadian 


92 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


stoves are so constructed, that the whole time you 
are in a room, you are almost stifled with the sul- 
phureous vapor, which must be extremely perni- 
cious, and in all probability occasions the sallow 
complexion of the Canadians; there cannot be a 
stronger proof that it is so, than its having the 
same effect on Europeans who have been settled 
here any length of time. 

They put me in mind of Erasmus’s Diversoria 
Germanica — B. In hypocausto exuts ocreas; induis 
calceos; mutas, si voles, indusium, vestes pluvia madi- 
das suspendis juxta hypocaustum; ipse te admoves, ut 
sicceris. Itaque frequenter in idem hypocaustum con- 
veniunt octaginta aut nonaginta, pedites, equites, 
negotiatores, naute, aurige, agricole, pueri, femine, 
sani, egroti. — Gu. Istuc vere cenobium est. — BE. 
Alius ibi pectit caput, alius abstergit sudorem, alius 
repurgat perones aut ocreas, alius eructat alium. Quid 
multis? Ibi linguarum ac personarum non minor est 
confusio, quam olim in turri Babel. Prodit famulus 
senex barba cand, tonso capite, vultu torvo, sordido 
vestitu.— Gu. Tales opportebat cardinalibus Ro- 
manis esse @ poculis.— Be. Is circumactis oculis 
tacitus dinumerat, quot sint in hypocausto: quo plures 
adesse videt, hoc vehementius accenditur hypocaustum 
etiamsi alioque sol estu sit molestus. Hec apud illos 
precipua pars est bone tractionts, st sudore diffluant 
omnes. Si quis non assuetus vapori, aperiat rimam 
fenestra, né prefocetur, protinus audit, Claude. Si 
respondeas, Non fero: audis, Quere igitur aliud 
diversorium. — Gu. Atgque mihi nihil videtur peri- 


THROUGH AMERICA 93 


culosius, quam tam multos haurire eundem vaporem, 
maximeé resoluto corpore, atque hic capere cibum, et 
horas complures commorari. Tum enim omitto ructus 
alliatos, et ventris flatum, halitus putres: multi sunt 
quit morbis occultis laborant, nec ullus morbus non 
habet suum contagium. — Bre. Sunt viri fortes, ista 
rident ac negligunt.— Gu. Sed interim multorum 
periculo fortes sunt. — You will pardon me such 
a long quotation, but it is so apposite, that I could 
not resist it. 

Although the weather is intensely cold, the mode 
of dress in use here, and these stoves, prevent your 
ever feeling any; there are none of those raw damp 
days, so much the subject of complaint in England, 
and from the bad effects of which no cloathing will 
defend you. | 

The dress of the natives is extremely well cal- 
culated for the climate; it consists (in addition to 
the common habiliments worn in England) of a 
blanket coat, a pair of what are called leggings, 
with a kind of flap on the outside of the leg, to pre- 
vent the snow from clogging round them; fur 
gloves, and a fur cap, which is made to pull over 
the ears, but this is seldom done, except when the 
strong north-west winds blow. At that time it is 
very dangerous to go out, as you run a great risque 
of being frost-bit, which happens in an instant, 
sometimes in turning the corner of a street, with- 
out being sensible of it at the time, as it occasions 
no sort of pain; if the part affected is not immedi- 
ately rubbed with snow, and every precaution 


94 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


taken, it is sure to mortify, and should any one, 
thus circumstanced, be imprudent enough to go 
near the fire, mortification is inevitable. 

To convince you how very instantaneous it 
must be, I shall relate a ludicrous circumstance, 
which however had nearly been productive of a 
duel. 

An officer in the garrison having a nose remark- 
ably large, was going to dinner at the mess, when 
not four doors from his lodgings, turning round a 
corner, he met another officer, who immediately 
cried out, “God bless me, your nose is frost-bit.”’ 
From the small distance he had gone, he thought 
it impossible, and that his friend was bantering 
him; high words arose, and they parted with an ap- 
pointment to meet the next morning, to resent the 
affront. He made haste to his dinner, and upon 
his entering the room, the officers prevented his 
coming to the fire, telling him at the same time his 
nose was frost-bit. He then began to think it no 
joke, and was happy to apply the usual remedy: it 
was no bad punishment for his rashness and incre- | 
dulity, that during the time the officers were at 
dinner, he was obliged to be in the cold, rubbing his 
nose with snow till the blood circulated, and though 
very sharp set, obliged to nose a meal he would 
have been happy to partake of. 

The present season of the year not permitting 
any military manceuvres, and naturally inclining 
us more to reflections of a serious nature, than the 
gay appearance of the spring or summer, I shall 


THROUGH AMERICA 9s 


again trespass on your patience with some few ob- 
servations on the effects of the intense cold weather 
experienced in this country; and as you have al- 
ways appeared partial to my adding the remarks of 
others, where I thought them more just and beauti- 
ful than my own, I shall allude to some that struck 
me on the following phcenomena. 

I have already mentioned to you that the frost 
is set in, and among the many inconveniencies 
which the inhabitants of this northern region suffer 
from it, none is more to be lamented than that of 
the ground being so much frozen, as to make it im- 
possible to dig a grave for the interment of those 
who die at this time; their friends are obliged to 
keep them above ground till a thaw comes, when 
they return the body to the dust from whence it 
came. 

You will easily conceive, my dear friend, that 
the daily sight of so mournful an object as the bier 
of a departed husband, must inevitably lengthen 
out the sorrow of 


“The new made Widow — 
Whilst busy meddling Memory, 
In barbarous succession, musters up 
The past endearments of their softer hours, 
Tenacious of its theme.” 


To relatives, who often think it a religious duty 
to mourn the departed, such scenes, by a protracted 
sorrow, often draw life to its utmost verge, and at 
the funeral they are scarce more alive than the 
corpse they bury. To those who, without feeling a 


96 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


loss, are yet led to contemplate, it often suggests 
the idea of Arbuthnot, 


“What am I? how produc’d? and for what end? 
Whence drew I being? to what period tend?” 


I think you would hardly forgive me, were I not 
to relate to you the very strange manner in which 
these thoughts affect the German soldiers of our 
army. I know not whether to call it sympathy, or 
by any other name, but it strongly evinces the 
connexion existing between the body and mind. — 

The Germans, to the number of twenty or thirty 
at a time, will in their conversations relate to each 
other, that they are sure they shall not live to see 
home again, and are certain that they shall very 
soon die: would you believe it, after this they mope 
and pine about, haunted with the idea, that 


“Nor wives, nor children, shall they more behold, 
Nor friends, nor sacred home.” 


Nor can any medicine or advice you can give them 
divert this settled superstition, which they as surely 
die martyrs to, as ever it infects them. Thus it is 
that men, who have faced the dangers of battle 
and of shipwreck without fear (for they are cer- 
tainly as brave as any soldiers in the world), are 
taken off, a score at a time, by a mere phantom of 
their own brain. This is a circumstance well known 
to every one in the army. 

In case of any decease in the family of a Cana- 
dian, the corpse is deposited in some private cham- 


THROUGH AMERICA 97 


ber, but in our general hospital there is a long room 
appropriated for that purpose. The superintend- 
ant of this room, an apothecary, being a man pos- 
sessed of whimsical ideas, and a turn for the ludi- 
crous, had placed the dead bodies of these poor 
Germans in various postures, some kneeling with 
books in their hands, others sitting down with 
pipes in their mouths, many standing erect against 
the wall, and as they have their cloaths on, you 
scarcely at first imagine they are dead; but upon a 
nearer approach, what with their long mustaches, 
which are put in form, and their ghastly counte- 
nance, you cannot picture to yourself any thing so 
horrible, yet at the same time so truly laughable 
and ridiculous. 

After what I have related, you will most proba- 
bly agree with me, that the constitution of England 
has not unwisely declared apothecaries and sur- 
geons incapable of composing a jury upon trials 
for capital offences, though it excludes some few of 
them who do honor to the profession, by their gen- 
tleness and humanity: yet I am fearful the major 
part of them would not join in the warmth that is 
so frequently experienced, in the generous and 
noble bursts of joy that overwhelms the order of 
our courts of justice, when unprotected innocence 
escapes the arbitrary and revengeful prosecution of 
malice and power. I have heard surgeons, as an 
excuse for the strange want of feeling either brought : 
on by the daily visitation of sickness and pain, or 
which they possess from the apathy of their nature, 
~\ 


98 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


say, that were they to feel much on the occasion, it 
would disable them from doing their duty. Strange 
argument this! and as contradictory to sound sense 
as true philosophy, which might teach them gentle- 
ness in the manner, and firmness in the execution. 
For my own part, such is the situation of my mind, 
when I am indisposed, that I have fancied the af- 
fectionate ““how do ye” of the surgeon and apothe- 
cary, has done me as much good as their drugs, or 
the performance of an operation in phlebotomy. 
Can any one conceive it proper, when a youth of 
sixteen has broke a leg, that the surgeon, while in 
doubt on the first visit, should, in the presence of 
his patient, refuse to search whether a fracture had 
actually happened, because he would make such a 
roaring and a noise that he should not get it out of his 
head for a fortnight, and though the lad with spirit 
assured him, that those who were present had not 
seen him shed a tear; the surgeon, however, did not 
make the experiment, though I believe for a much 
better reason than he gave, which was that the leg 
was much swelled. Thus did a surgeon, while I was 
in England, treat our cousin B——,, lowering his 
spirits, leaving him three or four days in suspence, 
whether his leg was broken or not, merely to shew 
how coolly he could talk on a subject like that be- 
fore him. Had he, instead of this unfeeling excuse, 
but tenderly assured his patient, that it would put 
‘him to more pain to make the search then, than at 
a future time, I should have supposed it would have 
made his mind more easy, and been the means of 





THROUGH AMERICA =. 


preventing the access of a fever, always to be 
feared on these occasions. 

In the hospitals, perhaps the multiplicity of 
cases may plead an excuse for little ceremony, but 
in private practice, where they are well paid, thus 
wantonly to wound the feelings of those who are 
but in ill spirits, cannot add either to their credit or 
practice. 

You will long ere this wonder how I have strayed 
from the wild scenes that surround me, to lash the 
hardened professors of the Esculapian art, but you 
too well know that such things do exist, not to par- 
don my deviation. I shall therefore conclude with 
my sincere wishes that you may never have the 
misfortune to fall into their hands, and remain 


Yours, &c. 


100 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Dy Evie be Vel 


. Montreal, February 27th, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


S my last was liable to the inspection of the 

enemy, | have been restrained from informing 
you of many things that it would otherwise have 
communicated. I embrace, therefore, the oppor- 
tunity of an officer going to Quebec, in order that 
you may receive this by the first ship that sails for 
England. 

Since my last I have been again to St. John’s, 
where, notwithstanding the severity of the weather, 
the artificers and shipwrights are all busily em- 
ployed. We have raised upon the Lakes, in addi- 
tion to the force of last summer, a curious vessel, 
called a Radeaux, which formerly belonged to the 
French, and was sunk by the Americans near this 
place: it is a castle of itself, of a monstrous con- 
structure, and will hold a great number of men; she. 
is intended to convey the heavy artillery across 
the Lakes. From the account, indeed, that we have 
received from some deserters, the Americans do 
not intend to dispute them, but wait our arrival at 
Ticonderoga. 

The garrison at St. John’s has been kept very 
alert most of the winter, as several parties of the 
enemy have come across the Lake upon sleighs, and 
having hovered about the woods, twice attacked 
the block-house on the opposite shore, their views, 


THROUGH AMERICA IOI 


no doubt, were of destroying our fleet; but to ren- 
der the ships more secure, the ice has been cut 
away for several yards round them, to prevent their 
being set fire to. | 

As I returned from St. John’s along the river, my 
attention was suddenly caught by an object well 
calculated to have exercised the feelings, and em- 
ployed the pen of a Sterne. 

When the river freezes over, the Canadians cut a 
square hole in the ice, for the cattle to drink out of. 
I saw a drove of sheep surrounding one of these 
holes: the whole flock looked most piteously, and 
bleated with so mournful a lamentation, as would 
have pierced a heart of stone; one of them seemed 
infinitely more agitated than the rest, and exhib- 
ited feelings that would have done honor to the 
most tender sensibility. Curiosity, concern, or 
what you will, led me instantly to the mouth of the 
hole, where a poor little lamb, not four days old, 
urged by extreme thirst, had fallen in; it was strug- 
gling for life, and sent forth such distressful cries! 
— my God, how my pulse beat, and my breast was 
full, even to bursting! — how often did it get its 
little feet on flakes that seemed to promise it sup- 
port, and as often it slipt back again into the water; 
now it seemed by ineffectual exertions, anxious for 
life, and now hopeless and despairing, lay inani- 
mate; — it was some time before I could extricate 
it; do me justice, and guess my feelings till I had 
effectually saved its life. I took it up in my arms, 
and the whole flock followed me to the farm house. 


102 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


To describe the mother’s solicitude, and the joy at 
finding it safe, is impossible; language can never 
betray what the imagination itself can scarcely 
paint. You who are possessed of sympathy, and a 
tender regard for the whole creation, which is per- 
haps the greatest ornament of human nature, will 
easily believe the infinite pleasure this little office of 
humanity afforded me. 

This is one of the many things in which the mind 
might be apt to arraign the wisdom of Providence, 
why nature should give birth to such tender crea- 
tures, at so rigorous a season of the year, when to all 
appearance they require the utmost warmth to 
bring them to perfection. 

A few days since I went to Verchere, to see some 
officers of the 24th regiment, which village is ex- 
tremely pleasant, commanding a very extensive 
view both ways of the river, with a prospect of this 
city. It derives its name from a circumstance, 
wherein it is proved that the fair sex, upon emer- 
gencies, possess a courage equal, if not superior to 
ours. In the year 1690, when this province was in a 
continual state of warfare with the Indians, and 
the inhabitants were obliged to reside in forts, it 
happened that a Madame de Verchere was left alone 
in the fort, whilst the rest of the people were at 
work in the fields; a small party of Indians gaining 
this intelligence, were determined to enter the fort, 
plunder it, and take her prisoner; Madame de Ver- 
chere, however, perceiving them approach in a pos- 
ture for scaling the palisado, fired some musquet 


THROUGH AMERICA 103 


shot, and drove them to a distance; they instantly 
returned, and were again repulsed, astonished, you 
may be sure, since they could only discover a 
woman, who appeared as undismayed as if she had 
been surrounded with a numerous garrison. The 
Indians knowing the place was unprovided with 
any other defence, made several attempts, and 
were always repulsed by the lady, who defended 
herself in the fort for near four hours, with a valor 
and presence of mind which would have done honor 
to an old warrior: they were at length compelled to 
retire entirely, as the inhabitants of the fort (who 
always went out to labor with their musquets, in 
case of an attack) were returning, and greatly su- 
perior in number to the Indians. This was not the 
only instance of this lady’s courage, for about two 
years after, a party of the same Indians, but much 
more numerous, surprized and took prisoners the 
men, when at work; a little girl happened to make 
her escape, who, running into the fort acquaint- 
ed Madame de Verchere of what had happened. 
Shortly after the Indians appeared before the fort, 
leading the men captive. There was not a soul left 
in it, besides a young soldier and a number of 
women, who raised most lamentable cries at the 
sight of their husbands being led prisoners. In the 
midst of this, Madame de Verchere \ost neither her 
courage nor presence of mind, for after locking up 
the women, that their groans and weeping might 
not inspire the Indians with additional courage, and 
assuming the habiliments of a soldier, she fired a 


104 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


piece of cannon and several musquet shot, shewing 
herself with her soldier, sometimes in one redoubt. 
and sometimes in another, always firing upon the 
approach of the Indians to the breast-work, who 
did not make a fierce assault, as by her stratagem 
they supposed there were many men in the garrison. 
Fortunately for the lady, she had not long to remain 
in this disagreeable state, for the Chevalier de Cri- 
sasy who was Governor of a small fort at Cham- 
blée, upon hearing the firing of cannon, came to 
the succour of the place, and that so suddenly, 
that the Indians were obliged to make a very 
precipitate retreat, leaving their prisoners behind 
them. | 

This remarkable lady lived to a good old age, and 
died in Normandy, where there is a monument 
erected to her, with these two singular instances of 
her fortitude and bravery. 

One would imagine that this spot of Verchere was 
destined for the trial of fortitude and bravery in the 
fair sex, to which I might add conjugal affection. 
At this time a lady resides here, noble by birth, in 
whom is united all the softness and delicacy of her 
sex, ever accustomed to those elegancies and refined 
enjoyments which are attendant upon high rank 
and fortune: she has forsaken all the pleasures of 
the gay and fashionable world, to accompany her 
husband to the wild forests of Canada; already 
travelled a vast extent of country, in different ex- 
tremities of season, and with difficulties that an 
European will not easily conceive. Such instances 


THROUGH AMERICA 10§ 


of connubial attachment, in the levity of the pres- 
ent day, are rarely to be met with; but that such 
characters do exist, and that the pleasures and 
gaieties of the beau monde have not altogether van- 
quished the social virtues, is to be instanced in that 
pattern of her sex, Lady Harriet Ackland, who 
has not only encountered the hardships already 
described, but upon joining the army, in addition 
to her former fatigues, had to attend her husband 
upon his sick bed, in a miserable hut at Chamblée. 
A mind like hers, animated by love and affection, is 
alone capable of encountering such hardships. 

General Phillips commands this garrison, and is 
much esteemed by the officers of the army; he gives 
them as little trouble as possible, but will have them 
perform their duty, and seldom misses coming upon 
the parade in a morning. The following anecdote 
will give you a trait of his character, and shew you 
the method he has of gaining the esteem of the 
officers: 

One evening several young officers of the artillery 
having made a little too free with “the Tuscan 
grape, and being high in blood,” went to the house 
of a Canadian, the father of three very pretty 
daughters: it happened the young ladies were at 
home, and as they had frequently given some little 
encouragement to the officers, these young men 
thought themselves warranted in taking a few lib- 
erties with them; but, as the wine had deprived 
them of all ideas of restraint, they proceeded far- 
ther than the rules of decency or delicacy allow of, 


106 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


or than I chuse to relate. In the midst of this scene 
the father arrived, whose appearance added greatly 
to the confusion, and the old gentleman making a 
general alarm and outcry, the officers were obliged 
to decamp. 

The next morning a formal complaint was made 
to General Phillips, by the father of the young 
ladies, who said that if he was not immediately 
redressed, he would set off for Quebec, and lay his 
complaint before General Carleton, at the same 
time informing him who had been the aggressors, 
adding, with some warmth, Qw’il étoit bien certain 
que ce bon Général lut rendroit justice. 

The General professed himself extremely sorry 
that such a disgrace should have fallen upon the 
officers of that garrison, and that he should, for his 
own sake, render him all the justice in his power, in 
order to wipe off such a stigma from his own corps, 
which pacified the Canadian. 

The next day being the General’s levee, those 
officers, who were now become conscious of their 
imprudent behaviour, did not absent themselves, 
least it should argue guilt. After the General had 
made his bow of retirement to the levee, he desired 
that the officers of the artillery would remain, and 
the rest of the company being departed, he ad- 
dressed them in the following manner: 

“Gentlemen, I have had a very heavy complaint 
“‘made to me by one of the inhabitants, of some 
“‘of the officers of the artillery, and cannot but say 
“T feel it more forcibly, as commanding that corps 


THROUGH AMERICA 107 


““— and of such a nature too — Gallantry has ever 
“marked the soldier’s character, and I could allow 
““you to use every persuasive argument that lays 
“in your power, but for Heaven’s sake, don’t use 
“violence, that is beneath a man! — For my own 
“part, I do not know who has been guilty of such 
“conduct, nor can I form the least idea of the per- 
“son, unless it was Capt. H , (pointing to an old 
“and infirm officer) I am sure it could not be any of 
“the young gentlemen, certainly their persons and 
“‘address would have ensured them success. When 
“you solicit the fair, violence becomes unneces- 
“sary. I neither know who the officers were, nor do 
“‘T wish to be informed; but let me advise them to 
“pursue different means, when they next address 
“the ladies, as they may rest assured those they 
“have adopted will never succeed. I only desire 
“that I may never hear of any more such com- 
“plaints, nor need I suggest to those gentlemen 
“who are conscious of having been concerned in 
“this affair, that it is compatible with their char- 
“acters, to make every satisfaction and apology 
“for their conduct, to the father of the young 
“ladies.” 

I need not observe, that those who had been the 
cause of this handsome reprimand of the General’s, 
immediately went and made the required apology. 
Thus, by the natural politeness and address of Gen- 
eral Phillips, ended a business, which, under the 
cognizance of a more austere commander, might 
have been rendered fatal to the characters and for- 





108 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


tunes of those who had erred only in the moment 
of inebriation. 

Most of the inhabitants have large holes dug in 
their cellars, which they fill with ice, and those who 
have them are now laying it in for the summer. | 
am informed the heat is equally as predominant as 
the cold is at present, and were it not for the ice 
cellars, they could not keep their provisions sweet 
a day. At this season of the year, the inhabitants 
have very little trouble in going to market, having 
only the article of eggs and butter to purchase, for 
as soon as the frost sets in, they generally purchase 
what provisions they think will serve them till it 
breaks up, not only flesh and fowl, but even fish, 
for they make holes in the ice, and let down nets 
five or six fathom long, which seldom are drawn up 
empty, and these articles, when brought for sale, 
are frozen as hard as a stone; the provisions being 
laid in so long before they have occasion to use 
them, are always tender. When they want to dress 
any thing, it is put into a pail of cold water be- 
fore the fire, otherwise the water would soon be 
congealed; in about an hour, whatever kind of 
provision is put in thaws, and becomes fit for 
use. | 

The lower class of Canadians are exceedingly in- 
solent, and insult the officers upon every occasion; . 
their behaviour would be insufferable, did they not 
now and then get severely chastised. Was I in- 
duced to hazard an opinion as to the cause of this, 
I should attribute it to the very great indulgence 


THROUGH AMERICA 109 


shewn to them by General Carleton; they imagine 
it is only to lay their complaints, however absurd, 
before him, and be redressed, according to the story 
they tell him. The following is the best specimen I 
can give you, in confirmation of my assertion: 

As Colonel Carleton was driving his cariole, with 
a lady in it, upon the ice, a Canadian drove his 
sleigh designedly against the Colonel’s cariole, by 
which it was overset and much damaged: upon this 
the Colonel gave him a most severe horse-whip- 
ping, which the Canadian bore very patiently, say- 
ing, with a slight shrug, Fouéttez donc Monsieur, 
Jusques a ce que vous soyez fatigué, mais je vous as- 
sure je m’en plaindrai au Général Carleton. The Colo- 
nel then encreased his flagellation, telling him at 
the same time, Et guand vous vous plaindrez au Gé- 
néral, ayez la bonté de [informer en méme tems, que 
é est son frére qui vous a fouétté. The Canadian hear- 
ing this, and presuming he should then obtain no 
redress, began to ask pardon, became very submis- 
sive, and was glad to make the best of his escape, 
by slinking away and drawling out, Que si’/ eut su 
que c étott le fréere du bon Général, il n’auroit pas fait 
cela pour tout au monde. 

This little anecdote, while it convinces you 
what great lengths these plebeians go, when they 
imagine themselves protected, will afford you an 
example of that meanness ever attendant upon 
vulgar and base minds, when a proper chastisement 
is bestowed upon them, for such instances of their 
audacity. 


IIo INTERIOR TRAVELS 


I am just informed there is an opportunity of 
sending letters to Quebec, from whence this will 
soon reach you, with my sincere wishes for your 
health and happiness. I remain, 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA III 


feed beRe XV Et 


Montreal, April 6th, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

S we are now in daily hopes of the frost’s 

breaking up, and every one is anxious and 
impatient to hear from his friends, do not let me 
meet with a disappointment. 

Being desirous to visit every place worthy of 
notice, I went to Chamdblée, where are the remains 
of a fort, formerly built by the French, for what 
purpose they are the best judges: it is said their in- 
tention was to prevent an army entering Canada. 
It is so situated, that an army can march by La 
Prairé and La Chine, take Montreal, and then turn 
their whole force against the fort, which would be 
thus cut off from any relief. This has been clearly 
évinced this war, when General Prescott, with sev- 
eral companies, were taken prisoners in it. 

The fort is built of stone, of a regular square, 
with four bastions at each angle, without any 
outworks, and is situated a few miles from the 
mountains which I have already described; from 
its situation I can never suppose it otherwise than 
intended as a magazine for stores and provisions 
to supply St. John’s. 

About three miles from the fort are the rapids, 
which prevent shipping going up to St. John’s; 
there is a saw-mill there, and it being the first of 
the kind I ever saw, I was particular in my exam- 


172 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


ination of it. After the owner had given me every 
necessary information, I asked him which Govern- 
ment he preferred, when he exclaimed, OA! Mon- 
sieur, il ny a point de comparaison, [ Anglois! 
? Anglois! and then related a circumstance, which 
no doubt you will say carried a powerful reason 
for the poor old man’s giving us the preference, 
and affords another proof how much the Canadians 
were oppressed by the French. 

There was a custom, which is continued for the 
repair of roads, transporting provisions, and other 
services for Government, called a corvée; it is in the 
breast of the Captains of the Militia to nominate 
such a number of inhabitants to go with horses and 
carts upon that duty. 

At the time Lord Amherst was expected to enter . 
Canada, across Lake Champlain, the French were 
continually sending supplies of ammunition and 
provisions to Chamblée and St. John’s, and the in- 
habitants, as well as their cattle, were almost 
worked and harrassed to death, by the oppression 
and tyranny of the Captains of Militia. 

Before the campaign commenced, General Mont- 
calm went to St. John’s and Chamblée, to see that 
those garrisons were in a perfect state of defence, 
when the poor peasants assembled in a body round 
him, and fell on their knees to tell their grievances. 
The man who owned the saw-mill told the General 
he was willing to serve /e Grand Monarque, but he 
had been much oppressed; that his harvest and 
plantation had been neglected, and his family al- 


THROUGH AMERICA 113 


most ruined and starving; and, to add to his mis- 
fortunes, gue le deux seuls chevaux qui lui restoient 
étoient morts de fatigue Ja veille: to which the Gen- 
eral, instead of comforting and redressing the poor 
old man, with a very stern look, and at the same 
time twirling his croix de St. Louis, replied, Mais 
vous en avez les peaux, c est beaucoup, c est beaucoup! 

Among the various amusements we enjoyed 
while away this long winter, I forgot to mention 
that skating is one, which those who are fond of 
that diversion are amply indulged in, there being 
such a constancy and large extent of ice. There are 
several officers in the regiment, who being exceed- 
ing fond of it, have instituted a skating club, to 
promote diversion and conviviality. 

The Canadians skate in the manner of the Dutch, 
and exceedingly fast, but the Indians dart none 
like lightning. Some years since, for a considerable 
wager, three Indians set off from this place at day 
light, and before dark arrived at Quebec, which is 
60 leagues; their fatigue, however, was so great, 
that two expired shortly after their arrival, and the 
third did not survive above a week. 

In this country there is no spring nor autumn, 
and as the frost is daily expected to break, the 
troops are kept in continual exercise. General 
Carleton is come to review the different regiments; 
but the snow is so deep upon the ground, they are 
exercised and to be reviewed on the ice, which you 
would naturally think extremely dangerous, and 
that the men would slip and do one another mis- 


114 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


chief with their bayonets; but such is the power of 
the sun at this time, that during the day it thaws 
the surface, which freezing again at night, forms a 
kind of small ice, affording a steady footing, added 
to which, all the ice opposite the city 1s covered 
with loose straws blown from the dung. The soil 
being so extremely prolific, they have no occasion 
for manure, and therefore bring it in sleighs upon 
the ice, to be carried away when it breaks up. 

There are many unpleasant duties attending an 
officer, but none more so than sitting upon a court- 
martial. A few days ago, being upon that duty, 
I felt myself much distressed, as being the junior 
officer, and of course the first to pass sentence, but 
was soon released from that painful task, the cul- 
prit escaping a punishment, by his blunt oddity. 
The crime for which he was tried, and for which he 
had been twice punished before, was that of drunk- 
enness and disorderly behaviour, which being upon 
this occasion clearly proved, he was asked by. the 
President what he had to say in his defence. He re- 
plied, “Oh! and plaise your Honors, I have nothing 
“to say, but to save your Honors and the Court 
“any further trouble, you may set me down two 
“hundred, I’m sure your Honors will think that 
“enough.” The droll and simple manner in which 
the fellow spoke, accompanied with his dialect, oc- 
casioned a smile upon every one present. After he 
was ordered to withdraw, the Court were of opin- 
ion, that as the man was in other respects a good 
soldier, his whimsical manner should in this in- 


THROUGH AMERICA 115 


stance save him a punishment; when, being called 
in, and receiving a severe reprimand from the Presi- 
dent, and his promising never to be guilty of the 
like again, he was dismissed. After thanking the 
Court for their lenity, he said, “Since as your Hon- 
pote have been so good to me, I'll keg myself for six 

“months, directly I get home.” As you will not 
easily comprehend the word keg, or how it can be 
applied in this instance, I will explain it to you: it is 
a cant word that the soldiers have among them, 
when they wish to refrain from liquors, they take 
an oath that for such a limited time they will not 
touch any spirits whatever, and if they are strongly 
addicted to liquor, nothing can tempt them to 
taste any. Perhaps you will say, it would not be 
amiss if the officers sometimes followed their ex- 
ample. 

It is incredible to think what a difference a few 
days makes at this season of the year. About six 
days after our regiment was reviewed, the snow 
began to thaw, and is now totally dissolved, except 
where there has been great drifts, and the ice along 
the banks has such great chasms, that the river is 
now unsafe to pass over. The center, where the 
rapids had thrown up the ice, every now and then 
breaks, with a noise equal to thunder. 

It is astonishing how quick vegetation is in this 
country, you can almost perceive the grass grow; 
the snow has not been gone many days, and the 
fields are entirely green, which can only be attrib- 
uted to the ground’s being continually covered with 


116 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


snow, which nourishes and preserves the blades 
with such a warmth, that when the sun, which 
even now is extremely powerful, can come at it, it 
brings it forward so very rapidly. 

_ The roads are almost impassable, but I am 
informed that in the course of a fortnight they 
will be as dry and dusty as in the midst of 
summer. 

In going out of the city towards Point aux Trem- 
bles, on the right hand, stands a stately old house, 
which was built by a person, who, after many 
disappointments and losses in trade, with the 
most unremiting and indefatigable industry, had 
scraped together a plentiful fortune, and as an al- 
lusion to the particulars of his life, had carved over 
his front door the figure of a dog gnawing a large 
fleshy bone, with this whimsical inscription: 

Fe suis le chien qui ronge los 
Sans en perdre un seul morceau: 


Le temps viendra, qui n'est pas venu 
24 
Fe mordrai celui qui maura mordu. 


The great diversion of carioling is now over, and 
the inhabitants are getting ready their calashes, 
for they are equally as fond of driving in them as in 
their carioles. 

I am told there is seldom a winter passes, but 
several people lose their lives, both before the river 
freezes over and when the ice breaks up, by being 
too adventurous in crossing it, a shocking instance 
of which happened three days ago. 

Across the chasms made by the ice in breaking 


THROUGH AMERICA 17 


up, which sometimes are five or six yards wide, a 
bridge of planks is thrown; a cariole passing over 
one of these, in which was two persons, the horse 
proving unruly, drew it over the side, and they fell 
down the chasm near forty feet, where they re- 
mained a little time, it being narrow at the bottom, 
and though every assistance was instantly had, no 
relief could be afforded, as before the ladders and 
ropes could be let down to them, the weight of the 
horse and cariole broke the ice at the bottom, and 
they were all carried away by the current. 

I could not help thinking of the poor lamb in the 
same situation, and lamented the striking differ- 
ence between the despair of a whole anxious flock 
for the loss of a young one, and that bustling cold- 
ness which disgraced humanity, at the sudden and 
unexpected death of a man. 

The cloathing for the army not being sent out 
last year, and as it will be too late to fit it to the 
men when it arrives, the commanding officers of 
the different regiments have received orders to re- 
duce the men’s coats into jackets, and their hats 
into caps, as it will be the means of repairing their 
present cloathing, and be more convenient for 
wood service, that when the army take the field, 
they will in a manner be all light infantry. The 
regiments have the hair that is affixed to their caps 
of different colors; ours is red, and as the purest 
white hair takes the best color, several soldiers, 
ambitious to have theirs superior to the rest, occa- 
sioned a very ludicrous affray betwixt them and 


118 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the inhabitants, in which the soldiers were worsted, 
and got a severe beating. 

They went into a field, to the number of about 
twenty, and began to cut the hair from the bottom 
of the cows tails: the owner observing this, assem- 
bled his neighbours and fell upon the soldiers with 
sticks, when a scuffle ensued, and the soldiers re- 
turned home with broken heads. 

Two that had been severely beaten, made a com- 
plaint to the Major of the regiment, who asked 
them if they had on their side-arms, when replying 
in the negative, he told them how glad he was — 
they had got a beating; that they should always 
be worn, being the same to a soldier as a sword was 
to an officer. | 

The inhabitants say, that the winter has been 
quite mild to what the last was, and if so, their hard 
winters must be terribly cold; that in general the - 
frost seldom breaks till the end of this month, and 
sometimes May; and as a proof of its mildness, sev- 
eral nations of Indians have come some hundred 
miles to join the army. 

It is a pity their assistance cannot be dispensed 
with, as they will not be restrained; they are 
absolutely necessary in this woody country, and 
especially as the enemy have them, they are a 
restraint upon each other, and I really believe so 
much mischief will not ensue, as if only one party 
had engaged them. Those on our side will be su- 
perior in numbers to the Americans, as they cannot 
furnish them with necessary supplies. 


THROUGH AMERICA 119 


The attachment of the Indian lasts no longer 
than you heap presents on him, and he sides with 
that party which will make the greatest. 

It is absolutely necessary to keep well with them, 
for though there is such an amazing tract of country 
in possession of Europeans, it is nothing when put 
in competition with the unknown tract that ex- 
tends to the westward. And though the Indians 
are much depopulated, still they are a very numer- 
ous race of people; it is altogether unknown where 
many nations are settled, nor could it be ascer- 
tained any such existed, were it not for straggling 
Indians belonging to them, that are casually met 
with. 

These people are under great subjection to their 
chiefs, and pay implicit obedience to them: They 
come every year to Montreal, to what is called the 
fair, when several hundreds of them assemble, 
and are exceedingly troublesome to the inhabitants, 
they receive presents to keep them peaceable, and 
in league of friendship; it is incredible what im-. 
mense sums it annually costs Government for that 
purpose. 

General Carleton returns to-morrow to Quebec, 
and as I send this by one of his Aid-de-Camps, who 
is going to England, and who has sent his servant 
for my letters, I am obliged to conclude hastily, 
with assuring you, that you shall hear from me by 
every opportunity, and remain, 


Yours, &c. 


120 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


1 est 505 bid PLEASE NOAA ES 


Montreal, May 20th, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

OT having had a letter from you these six 

months, it is impossible to express the pleas- 
ure yours gave me. I sincerely rejoice that your 
health’ is re-established, and hope it will always 
continue so. 

You hint in yours, that great events are expected 
in the course of the ensuing campaign, and that the 
operations of the two armies will nearly terminate 
this unfortunate contest. As to our army, I can 
only say, if good discipline, joined to health and 
great spirit amongst the men, with their being led 
on by General Burgoyne, who is universally es- 
teemed and respected, can ensure success, it may be 
expected; but, as I observed before, we have more 
dangerous enemies at home, than any we have to 
encounter abroad, for all transactions that are to 
take place are publicly known, long before they are 
officially given out in orders, and I make no doubt 
but you will be as much surprized as the General 
was, when I tell you that the whole operations of 
the ensuing campaign were canvassed for several 
days before he arrived, who no doubt supposed, 
that in giving out his orders he was communicating 
an entire secret. 

If, therefore, there are people in office, so impru- 
dent as to communicate any public intelligence, no 


THROUGH AMERICA 12g 


doubt the numerous agents and well-wishers to the 
Americans will not be negligent in gaining continual 
and immediate information. As intelligence is the 
main spring of every movement in an army, the 
Americans will have a great advantage, and what 
will add considerably to that advantage, is the 
great secrecy they observe, and the utter impossi- 
bility to obtain the least intelligence of any of their 
designs, while they are previously acquainted with 
every one of ours. 

About three weeks ago the river broke up, which 
was accompanied with a most astonishing noise: it 
happened in the night, and you must judge how 
strange it must appear, after being used to see, for 
such a length of time, so spacious a body of ice, 
with horses, carriages, and men travelling on it, 
changed to a beautiful river, with a number of 
ships and boats sailing and rowing upon it. 

The country wears quite a new face, and summer 
is come all at once. The inhabitants are now busily 
employed on their farms, and every thing appears 
a scene of bustle and industry, after such a length 
of time passed in dull inactivity. 

The army is now in movement to take the field; 
the advanced corps are already encamped at Bou- 
cherville, and were reviewed by General Burgoyne 
a few days since. I accompanied several officers to 
see them, who had never seen 1500 military men 
assembled together. As to the battalions of the 
light infantry and grenadiers, such a body of men 
could not be raised in a twelvemonth, search Eng- 


oa INTERIOR TRAVELS 


land through. The line of the advanced corps ex- 
tended a mile; they performed, exclusive of the 
common manceuvres, several new ones, calculated 
for defence in this woody country, and the General 
was pleased to express his approbation in the warm- 
est terms, with regard to the high discipline of the 
men. They proceed in a few days to St. John’s, and 
from thence they are to go upon the Lake, as far 
as the river La Cole, where they are to encamp, till 
the main body of the army is put in motion. 

I was much pleased at a little politesse and atten- 
tion of that amiable woman, Lady Harriet Ack- 
land — Exclusive of the excellent qualities that had 
already endeared her to the officers of the grena- 
diers (which corps Major Ackland commands) she 
thought proper to express a sense of their attention 
to her (and who could be inattentive?) by some 
little present; so a few days before the officers took 
the field, she sent each of them, (thirty in number) 
half of a large Cheshire cheese, which was no such 
small present as you may imagine, English cheese 
being then a dollar per pound; and perhaps it may 
not occur to you, there is no present you can send 
to an European abroad, so great as good Cheshire 
cheese. If you should be inclined to send me one, 
and this is no small hint, let me desire you to en- 
close it in lead, and then in horse-hair, the former 
to preserve the moisture, and the latter as the only 
safeguard against the amazing large rats that are 
in such great abundance in almost all ships. 

It much pleased me to observe the manner in 


THROUGH AMERICA 123 


which the inhabitants kept Holy Thursday, which 
they term La Féte Dieu. On the evening preceding 
that day, I could not conceive the reason that 
the people were bringing cart loads of small firs 
into the city; but judge how great was my surprize 
in the morning, when I went to the parade, to find 
the streets swept as clean as possible, these trees 
stuck in the ground on each side, and so contrived 
that their tops united, that every street had the 
appearance of a grove, and upon enquiry found 
it was intended for the celebration of this great 
festival. 

About eleven o’clock the procession began from 
the great Church, which extended near half a mile 
in length. All the principal Clergy, the Friars of 
the different Convents, with a large band of music 
attending; in the center of the procession, under a 
canopy of crimson velvet, supported by six Priests, 
the High Priest carried the Host, upon a Bible, 
_ covered with a white napkin, and before him two 
men bore a large basket full of flowers, which were 
strewed by several little boys in surplices; four 
others, with silver chalices, were continually waft- 
ing the incense towards the Host, the people at 
the same time singing anthems. In this manner the 
procession went through most of the streets in 
the city, and those who met it fell instantly on their 
knees; those who remained in their houses, came to 
the windows and did the same. I cannot but say it 
was a pleasing sight, and could not help thinking 
but it must be magnificent indeed, in those coun- 


124 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


tries where the Roman Catholic is the established 
religion. 

We were apprized of some procession, from an 
order given the day preceding by General Phillips, 
but had no idea of seeing such a spectacle. There 
having been several disputes in Roman Catholic 
countries, concerning the respect that the military 
should pay the Host, when passing by, his Majesty, 
a few years ago, issued out a general order for that 
purpose, which General Phillips gave out in orders 
as follows: — “As to-morrow there will be a great 
“procession through the city, I need not inform 
“the officers of the respect and attention his Maj- 
‘““esty has required should be paid the Host, when 
“passing. The non-commissioned officers are de- 
“sired to be particular in informing the men, that 
‘when the Host is going by, they are to front it, 
“and behave in a decent and respectful manner, to 
“pull off their hats, and remain in that situation 
“till the procession has passed. Any complaint 
“that is made to the General, will be punished with 
“the utmost severity.” 

To-morrow I leave this city, to join the advanced 
corps at the river La Cole; Situated as I must be, 
confined to the company, which I am proud in say- 
ing is commanded by Lord Petersham, you cannot 
expect the whole detail of the manceuvres of the 
different actions that may happen, or a particular 
account of the siege of Ticonderoga. I shall how- 
ever inform you of every thing that comes under 
my own observation, and give you my opinion of 


¢ 


THROUGH AMERICA 126 


events, not as an officer, but merely as a spec- 
tator. 

The officers take the field under great disadvan- 
tages, in regard to horses to transport their bag- 
gage, when they quit the Lakes; those for the use 
of Government are sent through the woods to 
Crown Point, but their arrival at that place is very 

uncertain, as they are liable to be taken by the 
enemy. It is quite a hazard, but rather than be 
distressed when I get to Ticonderoga, I have risqued 
sending mine, with some others, through the woods; 
if they arrive safe it will be a vast convenience; if 
not, I shall be compelled to send back my baggage, 
and then, hey for courage and a knapsack! 

Should any misfortune attend the cattle in- 
tended for Government, it will greatly retard the 
army, provided the Americans should abandon 
Ticonderoga; at all events it will impede us in 
some measure, as it will be several days after the 
army gets there before the horses arrive, and you 
may easily conceive an army cannot move without 
its artillery and provisions. 

Another great disadvantage which we experi- 
ence in the prosecution of this war, and which the 
Americans avoid is, that we have to transport all 
our provisions with us, whereas they have maga- 
zines stored with great abundance, every thirty or 
forty miles; where, in case any disaster attends 
their army, the loss of their provisions is easily re- 
cruited. But if any such event should happen with 
us, we should be obliged to make a stand at some 


126 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


strong post, till provisions could be sent from Can- 
ada. 

Added to this, the Americans are by much our 
superiors at wood-fighting, being habituated to 
the woods from their infancy. Our success in any 
engagement must greatly rest on the bayonet, the 
great utility of which General Burgoyne pointed out 
in an order a few days since, strongly recommend- 
ing the officers to inculcate that idea into the minds 
of the men. 

After I leave this city, you must not expect to 
hear from me so regularly as you have lately. But 
you may rest assured, I shall embrace every op- 
portunity of letting you know I am not yet food 
for the crows. ae 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA [27 


eet WR x TX 


Montreal, May 26th, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


FEW days since I was invited to dine with 

Capt. Frazer, who is superintendant over the 
Indians, and who gave us a dinner entirely of wild- 
meats. Most of the dishes were only to set off the 
table, there being such things there as very few of 
the company could partake of; we had the leg of a 
bear, indeed, which was salted, and far exceeded in 
flavor a leg of pork; another dish, which though 
deemed a great rarity with you, is not esteemed 
such here, a very fine haunch of venison. To tell 
you the truth, I really made my repast of what 
Monsieur Roberdeau, of Quebec, hinted to me, of 
the Friandises. 

Just as the cloth was removed, there came into 
the room a great number of Indians, (and amongst 
them one very old) who not having much ceremony, 
and seeing the bottles and glasses on the table, 
would drink with us, and began to be extremely 
troublesome, when Capt. Frazer interfered, and to 
shew you the controul he has over them, the instant 
he spoke, they quitted the room, but not without 
a present, for I did not understand the Indian lan- 
guage, but as I thought, and as he afterwards told 
us he was obliged to order his servant to give them 
a bottle of rum. 

After we had got rid of these troublesome guests, 


128 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


and the table restored to order, Capt. Frazer said, 
‘Gentlemen, I observed you all took notice of that 
“old Indian,” which the company acquiescing in, 
he told the following very singular history relative 
to him: 

That Indian, said he, is of the 4/gonquin nation, 
who are converted to Christianity, and who, being 
attached to the French, had excited the enmity of 
the Iroquois, whose hatred to Christians carried 
them to every excess of fury, murdering and tor- 
menting to death, without any regard to sex or 
age, every one that had the misfortune to fall into 
their hands. To escape the fury of the Jroquois, the 
whole nation of the 4/gonquins were determined to. 
fight their way to the French, in which struggle the 
women took no inconsiderable share, but nobly re- 
sisted their enemies on this occasion, when it so 
happened, that the mother of that old Indian was 
taken prisoner. 

The Jroguois carried her to one of their villages, 
stripped her naked, bound her hand and foot in 
one of their cabins, and in that state she re- 
mained for ten days, the savages sleeping round 
every night. The uth night, when they were all 
asleep, she disengaged herself from the ropes they 
had bound her with and fled into the forest. The 
second day after her escape, her footsteps were 
perceived by the Jroguois who were in search of 
her, and they pursued her with such expedition, 
that the third day she discovered them close at her 
heels: she instantly plunged into a pond of water 


THROUGH AMERICA 129 


that was near her, and diving amongst some weeds 
and bulrushes, just kept her head above water, so 
as to breathe, and by this stratagem escaped from 
her pursuers, who, after making a most diligent 
search, went away the course they thought she 
would take. When night came on, she left her situa- 
tion, and took a different route to that she per- 
ceived the savages had taken, by which means this 
poor creature wandered through the woods for five 
and thirty days, without any other sustenance than 
roots and wild-berries. At length she came to the 
river St. Laurence, and not perceiving any canoe 
along the shore, made a kind of wicker raft, on 
which she crossed the river, and had passed by 
Montreal, not knowing well in what part of the 
river she was, when, perceiving a canoe full of sav- 
ages, and fearful lest they might be Iroquois, she 
again ran into the woods, and remained till sun- 
set, when she directed her course to Montreal. — 
Within a mile of the city, she was discovered by a 
party whom she knew to be 4/gonquins; when they 
approached her, she squatted down behind a bush, 
calling out to them that she was not in a condition 
to be seen, as she was naked; one of them then 
threw her a blanket, and conducted her into the 
fort. After Capt. Frazer had related this story, he 
told us this old Indian took great pleasure in telling 
it to every one, at the same time expressing the ut- 
most indignation, and vowing revenge against the 
Iroquois. 

We had scarcely drank five glasses, after Captain 


130 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Frazer had finished his narration, when the Indians 
returned, upon a pretence of business to him, which 
was no other than that of procuring more rum, 
which Captain Frazer refusing them, they grew ex- 
tremely troublesome, and what, with the liquor 
they had already drank, were much beyond any 
controul, for they paid no attention to Capt. Fra- 
zer, who, finding he could not pacify, or any way 
get rid of them, made us an apology, and the com- 
pany broke up. 

On my return home, mentioning to my landlord 
what I had heard concerning the [roquois, he said, 
Monsieur, les Iroquois sont le plus sauvage et fraudu- 
leux de tout, and related the sad catastrophe of a 
Missionary, one Father ‘fogues, who resided a little 
below Trois Rivieres: imagining he had made great 
progress in converting them to Christianity, during 
a short interval of peace, was willing to spread his 
doctrine amongst the remote of the Jroguois; for 
that purpose, he set out with four Indians, and a 
young Frenchman as his servant; he had not passed 
Trois Rivieres above a league, when his four savage 
guides abandoned them: yet such was his enthusi- 
asm and confidence of having wrought upon them 
so far, that his person was in safety, he would not 
return, but travelled on, and at the very first Jvo- 
quois village he and his servant came to, he was too 
fatally convinced of his error, for they were seized, 
stript, scourged, buffeted, and treated as prisoners 
of war. At this sudden change the good Father was 
in great amazement, and began (for he could speak 


THROUGH AMERICA 131 


their language) to expostulate with all the powers 
of elocution, which were of no avail, and the only 
favor that his eloquence could procure him was, 
that instead of burning him and his companion 
alive, they humanely condescended to behead 
them with a hatchet. After my landlord had fin- 
ished the story, he said, with great warmth and 
indignation, Monsieur, les Iroquois sont frauduleux 
comme le Diable, et en voyagent at toujours crainte 
de le rencontre; and, from the story he had related, 
you will no doubt say he had very good foundation 
for his fears. 
I am, yours, &c. 


132 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Lae eR RX ok 


Montreal, May 31st, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 
EFORE I leave this city, though there is not 


A J much leisure time on my hands, I shall com- 
municate to you the fruit of my enquiries (to 
which I have applied myself this winter) respecting 
the advantage England derives from Canada. 

It was a complaint, and perhaps not without 
foundation, that Canada never enriched France, 
and that none of its inhabitants acquired the least 
fortunes, but the Indian traders. As it was not the 
fault of the country, which has many staple com- 
modities, from which a course of wealth might be 
derived, whence then is to be attributed this cause? 
First, from the continual state of warfare this prov- 
ince has been in from its very first settlement; to 
the oppressiveness of the government, and the ra- 
paciousness of the clergy; from which causes (ex- 
cept those enterprizing people who embark in the 
fur trade) the inhabitants not having a stimulative 
motive, were content with a mere existence, and if 
a Canadian could but pay his tythes and duties to 
his priest, and lay up a little to enjoy a long tedious 
winter, his happiness was compleat. 

But the scene is now reversed; all over the prov- 
ince there are saw and grist-mills, and the Cana- 
dians are now enriching themselves, by exporting 
lumber and grain to the West Indies and the other 


THROUGH AMERICA eS 


provinces. As I observed before, it was not the 
fault of the country, for to persons industriously in- 
clined, this country has many advantages, as after 
they have tilled their ground in autumn, from that 
time till the middle of April and the beginning of 
May, when they sow their crops, they have to cut 
down timber, and to saw it for building, shipping, 
and other uses, ready for exportation when the 
frost breaks up. Another great advantage this 
country possesses, is the quick vegetation, for the 
crop that is sown in May springs up, grows to per- 
fection, is cut down and carried into the barns by 
the end of August. 

Without considering the hardships and difficul- 
ties they were exposed to, the Indian trader was 
always looked upon with an envious eye: but now, 
as they are not liable to the rapacity of state and 
clergy, but enjoy all the privileges of our happy 
constitution, their industry is very great, and those 
winters that used to be spent in feasting and pleas- 
ure, is now employed to more useful purposes, and 
an Indian trader is not now a man so much to be 
envied. 

Daily experience shews, that this province 1s ca- 
pable of producing more resources than one. What 
motives of policy could it be in the French to keep 
the Canadians in sucha state of oppression? It 
should seem that France was sufficiently proud in 
having this vast territory annexed to its crown, and 
content with the produce of the fur trade. But 
lest you think J am entering too deeply into politics, 


134 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


I shall conclude, deferring to my next an account of 
the fur trade, which still is the greatest resource of 
wealth to England, but which must in process of 
time be annihilated from the very great destruc- 
tion of the animals, which every year diminishes 
them so fast, and occasions their flying to remoter 
parts, that the trader has hundreds of leagues far- 
ther to goin search of them; the necessity, therefore 
of encouraging husbandry, will appear evident to 
you. But I see I am again running into politics, 
therefore adieu. 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 135 


tbat LE RoRs xX XT 


Montreal, Fune 3d, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

NOW proceed to give you some account of the 

fur trade, and as in one of my former letters the 
nature of Indian traders were described to you and 
their modes of trafficking with the savages, I shall 
give you some little account of the beasts, whose 
furs they go in search of, and hope you will not 
think any little remarks that I may intersperse, as 
dictating to your superior sense and understand- 
ing, but merely ideas that occur to me whilst 
writing. 

By the accounts most authors have given us of 
Canada, they describe it, upon its first discovery, to 
have been an immense tract of forest, serving only 
as an extensive haunt to wild beasts, with which it 
was over-run, and which had multiplied prodi- 
giously; for those few men who did inhabit those 
deserts, not having any flocks or tame animals, left 
more room and food for those that were wandering 
and free, like themselves; and although there was 
no great variety, still there were multitudes of each 
species. But they, as every thing, sooner or later, 
in this terrestrial globe, paid tribute to the sover- 
eignty of man; that cruel power that has been so 
fatal to every living creature, and the few that the 
natives destroyed for their food and cloathing, 
were of little note in such a prodigious multitude. 


136 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


No sooner had our luxury led us to make use of 
their skins, than the natives waged a perpetual war 
against them, which they carried on with great 
eagerness, as in return for the havoc and destruc- 
tion they made amongst them, they indulged in a 
plenty and variety of gratifications they were be- 
fore unaccustomed to; and to render the war the 
more destructive, we assisted them with fire-arms, 
by the means of which great quantities of furs, and 
of a prodigious variety, were procured. Most of 
these were known in Europe, which were the same 
as those that came from the northern parts of our 
hemisphere, but they were in too small quantities 
to supply a great demand. 

Caprice and novelty has made these furs more or 
less in fashion, and England has found it to be for 
the interest of Canada, that they should be valued 
at home; and that they are so with a witness, the 
enormous price your sister gave for a muff and tip- 
pet, is a convincing proof: here I assure you they 
are very dear, the commonest fur cap standing you 
in two guineas. 

Having given you a little history of furs, I shall 
now describe to you some of the beasts whose skins 
are still in request, and first begin, with the Otter, 
which is so generally known in England, as to need 
no description; there is no other difference than 
that itis much larger, and its hair blacker and finer 
than ours, a circumstance fatal to them, as expos- 
ing them more to the pursuit of the savages. 

The Pole-cat, of which there are three species, is 


THROUGH AMERICA 137 


in great estimation among the Canadian hunters, 
as the hair is darker, more glossy, and more silky 
than those in Europe. | 

Even the Rat of North-America is valuable for 
its skin; but the two principal ones that are in the 
article of trade is the Oppossum and the Musk; 
many and ridiculous are the stories which are prop- 
agated relative to the female of the former, such 
among others, that of the young ones getting into 
the belly again through the teats, the fact is this, 
under its belly there is a loose skin, with a small 
aperture in the center, and this she can expand or 
depress at will; if pursued, and she thinks her young 
are in danger, she puts them into this bag, and runs 
away with them up a tree. Another singular in- 
stance of sagacity in this animal, which is seldom 
mentioned, is, that if pursued by other animals, 
such as the Tiger, Mountain-cat, &c. that can 
mount trees, it goes to the extremity of a bough, 
and suspends itself by its tail. The skin of the 
Musk-rat is employed for the same purposes as the 
Beaver, of which he seems to be a diminutive; but 
its most intrinsic value is for that predominant and 
powerful perfume it produces, and which is called 
after this animal. 

The Ermine is about the size of a squirrel, but 
not so long, has the same lively eyes, keen look, and 
his motions are so quick, that the eye can scarcely 
follow them, it has a long bushy tail, which at the 
tip is as black as jet; what enables me to give you so 
exact a description of this little animal is, that the 


138 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


daughter of the gentleman at whose house I lodge, 
has one in her possession; indeed it is the fashion | 
for the young ladies to keep them, as ours do squir- 
rels. One thing not a little extraordinary of this 
animal is, that all the winter it was white as snow, 
and the other day, when admiring it, I expressed a 
surprize in perceiving it had a yellow tint, when the 
young lady said, 4h! Monsieur, au milieu de T été 
c'est jaune comme d'or. This little animal is reck- 
oned one of the beauties of Canada, for though the 
sable is smaller, it 1s not so common. 

The Martin, whose skin is the most valuable, is 
only to be met with in the center of the forests, far 
from any habitation, and although so small an 
animal, is a beast of prey, living entirely upon 
birds. It is but a foot and a half long, yet leaves a 
print in the snow, which appears to be the footstep 
of a larger animal, occasioned by its jumping along 
and giving the marks of both feet together: their 
fur is much esteemed, but is inferior to that species 
which are called sables, whose skins are of a shining 
black. Those of the Martin encrease in value from — 
the various dyes, the deeper the tint the more 
valuable, and they gradually encrease from a light 
brown to the deep glossy black of the sable. The 
Martins seldom more than once in two or three 
years quit their recesses in these impenetrable | 
woods, and when they do, the Canadians take it as — 
a sign of a good winter, imagining there will be 
great quantities of snow, and consequently good 
sport in destroying them. 


THROUGH AMERICA 139 


The Wild-cat of Canada is reckoned muchsmaller 
than those upon the northern continent of Europe, 
and is the same kind of animal that was called by 
the ancients the Lynx, of which an erroneous opin- 
ion has ever prevailed amongst the vulgar, that it is 
possessed of the power of piercing to death with its 
eyes whatever it destines for its prey, as nature had 
deprived it of the faculties of hearing and smelling 
at a distance, which mistaken notion must have 
arisen from this simple cause, that as this animal 
lives upon what game it can catch, it will pursue 
it to the very tops of the tallest trees, and nature 
having endowed it with a quicker sight than most 
other animals, whatever it pursues, though of ever 
so small a nature, it never loses sight of, let the foli- 
age of the trees be ever so thick. The flesh of this 
animal is: very white, and said to be well flavored, 
but the Indians hunt it chiefly for its skin, the hair 
of it being long, and of a fine light grey, but not so 
valuable as that of the fox. 

This animal, like other natives of the frozen cli- 
mates, where nature produces but few vegetables, 
is Carniverous. 

Besides the small furs, Canada supplies England 
with the skins of the Stag, Deer, Roebuck, the Cari- 
bou and the Elk, the latter of which is supposed to 
be the original of all these species. All these ani- 
mals are hunted by the Canadians, but the chace of 
the Bear the savages have reserved to themselves, 
and which is their favorite sport; it seems best 
adapted to their warlike manners, strength and 


140 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


bravery, and especially as those animals supply 
most of their wants. 

Fearful lest you may grow tired of this heavy de- 
tail of wild beasts, I shall conclude this, reserving to 
my next the description of the only two that are 
worthy of notice, the Bear and the Beaver, the lat- 
ter of which possesses all the friendly dispositions, 
divested of all the vices and misfortunes that await 
us, and which debars us from the true and real pleas- 
ures arising from the friendly and sweet intercourse 
that should subsist between man and man. 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 141 


Pei lak ROX XL I 


Montreal, ‘fune 7th, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

PPORTUNITIES almost daily occurring, I 

am happy to embrace them, during the little 
time I have to remain in this city; when I quit it, 
you will think me very remiss in addressing you. 
Let me sincerely assure you, although there will 
be no regular conveyance, I shall embrace every 
opportunity that offers. 

As in my last I mentioned to you that the sav- 
ages were supplied with most of their wants from 
the Bear, feeding upon its flesh, rubbing themselves 
with its grease, and cloathing themselves with its 
skin, it may not be amiss to give you some little 
account of this animal, and the singular method 
they have of destroying them. 

As no doubt you must have seen many of them 
in England, I shall only give you an account of 
some of its particularities. 

This animal is rather shy than fierce, and will 
seldom attack a man; on the contrary, they will fly 
at the sight of him, and a dog will drive them a great 
way. The only time they are dangerous is after 
having been wounded, when they quit the hollow 
trees they have resided in all the winter, and at the 
time of rutting, which is in the month of July; they 
are then so fierce and ill-tempered, the effects of 
jealousy, that they are extremely dangerous to 


142 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


meet with. At this season they grow very lean, and 
their flesh has so disagreeable a relish, that the 
Indians, whose.stomachs are none of the most deli- 
cate, will not touch it. Who could conceive that an 
animal, so unlovely in its appearance, should in the 
space of one month grow leaner by the delle passion, 
than after an abstinence of six months. 

But the season over, he recovers his former em- 
bonpoint, which he is greatly assisted in regaining 
by the great quantity of fruits the woods abound 
with, and of which he is extremely greedy; grapes 
he is particularly fond of, climbing after them up 
the most lofty trees. After he has fed for some time 
on fruits, his flesh becomes delicious, and continues 
so till spring. 

It is surprizing enough that this animal, al- 
though provided with so warm a fur, and not of the 
most delicate appearance, should take more pre- 
cautions than any other to preserve itself from the 
cold, (this may serve as a lesson from nature, not 
to form our judgment of things by appearance, 
since every one is the best judge of his own wants;) 
for which purpose, when the winter sets in, he 
climbs up the hollow rotten trunk of an old tree, 
stopping up the entrance with pine branches, by 
which means he is sheltered from all inclemencies 
of the weather, and when once lodged, he seldom or 
ever quits his apartment during the winter, which. 
is the more singular, it being certain that he lays up 
no manner of provision, and that he must require 
some nourishment. That he requires little food is 


THROUGH AMERICA 143 


natural to suppose, as at the end of autumn he is 
very fat, takes no exercise, and almost always 
sleeps, and, therefore, losing little by perspiration, 
has very seldom occasion to go abroad in quest of 
it, and when he does, hastens back to his retreat. 
A ridiculous notion is gone abroad into the world, 
that during the winter the sole nourishment of the 
Bear is licking its paws, which, no doubt, arose from 
the amazing long time these animals can, either 
through the nourishment they receive from sleep, 
or idleness, go without food. Yet that such an idea 
should prevail, I am not surprized, as there has 
been an instance of one that was chained for a 
whole winter without either food or drink, and at 
the end of six months was found as fat as when first 
caught. 

The season for hunting the bear is in winter, 
when the Indians force him from his habitation by 
setting fire to the pine branches that he has drawn 
together at the bottom of the hollow tree, when the 
smoke ascending up the trunk, drives him from 
his late comfortable habitation, from which he no 
sooner descends, than they kill him. The Indians 
now only destroy them to answer their own wants, 
as formerly they used to do for the purpose of dis- 
_ posing of their skins to the traders; but it was no 
sooner understood that Canada was stored with 
Beavers, than the savages, urged on by a more lu- 
crative interest, directed their war against an ani- 
mal the most harmless, who molests no living crea- 
ture, and is neither carniverous nor sanguinary. 


144 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


This is, I am sorry to observe, become an object of 
man’s most earnest pursuit, and the one that the 
savages hunt after with the greatest eagerness and 
cruelty; a circumstance entirely owing to the un- 
merciful rapaciousness which luxury has made 
necessary in skins, for all the polished nations of 
Europe. 

This animal is by nature adapted for social life, 
being endowed with an instinct in the preservation 
and propagation of its species; it is generally about 
three or four feet long, mostly weighing from forty 
to sixty pounds; the hinder feet are webbed, which 
enables it to swim, and in the fore feet the toes are 
divided; its tail is oval, very flat, and covered with 
scales; the head resembles that of a rat, in which 
are four very sharp teeth, with these it will gnaw 
through trees of a great circumference. 

This animal is divested of turbulent passions, 
without a desire of doing injury to any one, free 
from craft, scarcely defending itself, unless it lives 
in society;it never bites, except when caught, and 
as nature has not supplied it with any weapons of 
defence, by a natural instinct as it were, it forms 
societies, and has various contrivances to secure its 
ease, without fighting, and to live without commit- 
ting, or suffering an injury; although this peaceable, 
and you may say almost tame animal, enters into 
society, it is nevertheless independent, every want 
being supplied by itself, and therefore it is a slave 
to none. It will not serve, nor does it pretend to 
command, every care seems directed by an instinct, 


THROUGH AMERICA 145 


that at the same time, as it labors for the general 
good, it lives for itself alone. To learn the nature 
of the societies of these animals, as it was related 
to me by my landlord, may afford you the same 
entertainment it did me. 

In the month of June or July, they assemble 
from all quarters, to the number of two or three 
hundred, near some lake or pool of water, to build 
their habitations against winter, the construction 
of which, from the complication and manner of dis- 
posing the materials, one would be led to imagine 
to be beyond the capacity of any one but an intelli- 
gent being, and especially in their constructing of 
dams, when they cannot meet with a lake or pool; 
in this case they fix upon some river, when the first 
of their labour is to make a dam, which they gener- 
ally do in the shallowest part of the stream, for that 
purpose felling trees with the four sharp teeth that 
I have already described; five or six of them will 
gnaw a large one through, and to mark to you the 
wonderful sagacity of these industrious brutes, 
they contrive it so that it always falls in the water: 
having laid this foundation, they fell smaller trees, 
which they roll to this great one, but what appears 
the most wonderful is, the manner they sink the 
piles in the water, to prevent the stream’s carrying 
away the trees, they lay across. Their contrivance 
is this, with their nails they dig a hole in the ground, 
or at the bottom of the water, with their teeth they 
rest the stake against the bank of the river, or 
against the tree that lies across, and with their feet 


146 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


they raise the stake and sink it with the sharp end 
(which these sensible animals make to it) in the 
hole that they have made, where it stands up; and 
to render these stakes or piles more secure, they in- 
terweave branches of small trees, and with their 
tails wisk up a kind of mortar with clay, and fill the 
vacant space of the interwoven branches. After 
this work is finished by the body at large, each one 
considers of some lodging for himself; an hut being 
built upon piles on the sides of the Lake, capable of 
containing from two or three to ten or fifteen, (for 
they divide themselves into companies, and build 
these huts accordingly;) which are formed with 
walls and partitions of about two feet thick and as 
many in height, arched over, and the whole so plais- 
tered with clay, that the smallest breath of air can- 
not penetrate through them; each apartment is. 
made large enough to contain two, a male and fe- 
male; each hut has two entrances, one towards the 
land, and the other on the side towards the stream, 
the former for them to go into the woods to fetch 
provisions, and the latter to escape from their en- 
emy, that is to say MAN, the destroyer of cities and 
commonwealths. The inside of their apartments 
has no other furniture than the flooring of grass 
covered with the boughs of the fir, and these ani- 
mals are so cleanly, that no filth of any kind is ever 
seen in these apartments. 

In each hut there are store houses proportionate 
to the number of its inhabitants; every one knows 
its own, and never steals from his neighbour. Each 


THROUGH AMERICA 147 


party, that is to say, the male and female, live in 
their own habitations; they have no jealousies or 
quarrels; the provisions of the community are col- 
lected and expended without any contest, and rest 
satisfied with the simple food that their labors pro- 
cure them. The only passion they have is that of 
conjugal affection, wherein a most excellent exam- 
ple is held forth to that all-wise and all-sufficient 
man, who is led away by every gust of passion and 
vanity. 

Two of these animals, in the course of their la- 
bours in the summer months, match together, 
unite by inclination and reciprocal choice, and 
agree to pass the winter, and like too many couple 
who hastily enter into matrimony with equally as 
good motives, but forgetting what should make the 
happiness lasting, that of laying up a stock to guard 
against an inclement season. 

The happy couple retire to their hut about the 
end of autumn, which has been observed to be no 
less favorable to love than spring; for if the season 
of flowers invites the feathered tribe to propagate 
in the woods, the season of fruits as powerfully ex- 
cites the inhabitants of the earth in the reproduc- 
tion of their species; besides, as winter gives leisure 
for amorous pursuits, it compensates for the ad- 
vantages of other seasons. 

I am this moment told that the pacquet is going 
to sail, and must therefore defer a further account 
of this wonderful and surprizing animal, from 
whom so many lessons of industry and morality 


148 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


may be drawn, till another opportunity, and 
conclude with assuring you of my best wishes 
for your happiness and prosperity, and that I 
remain 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 149 


Piel rR 2x) 


Montreal, Fune 8th, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

SEND this by our friend Captain F. who is 

going post to Quebec, from which place he will 
sail immediately, and as the navigation from this 
city to Quebec is much delayed by the various cur- 
rents and other causes in the river, he will be there 
as soon, if not sooner, than the ship I sent my first 
by, in which case you may receive this before the 
other, which may greatly bewilder you. I there- 
fore shall just hint to you, this is the conclusion of 
the history of the Beaver. 

If my recollection does not deceive me, I left off 
in my last at describing his love, that. universal 
passion of nature, which the Beaver seems to enjoy 
in the conjugal state, comparatively much happier 
_ than mankind; for when they couple and enter 
their huts, they never quit each other, consecrat- 
ing their whole time to love, from which neither 
labor nor any other object can divert them. 

If by chance a sun-shiny day should happen to 
enliven the gloomy melancholy of the season, the 
happy couple leave their huts to walk on the bor- 
ders of the Lake, regaling themselves with some 
fresh bark, and breathing the salutary exhalations 
of the earth. At the conclusion of the winter, the 
mother brings forth the endearing pledges of their 
affection, while the father ranges the woods, al- 


150 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


lured by the sweets of the spring, leaving to his 
little family that portion of room which he took up 
in his narrow cell. The Beaver generally produces 
two or three, which the mother suckles, nurses and 
trains up, for when the father is absent, she takes 
out the young ones, in her excursions for cray and 
other fish, and green bark torecruit herownstrength 
and to feed her young, till the season of labor re- 
turns; for although these animals are so industri- 
ous as to build themselves habitations that would 
last them a century, they are obliged to rebuild 
them every year, as the first thing the traders do 
when they meet with any of their works, is to 
break down their cabins and the dam, together 
with their dyke. 

There are various methods of taking and destroy- 
ing these animals, by draining the water from their 
dykes, and sometimes by snares; they are very 
seldom shot at, for unless killed on the spot, they 
are lost to the huntsman, by plunging into the 
water wounded, when they sink to the bottom and 
never rise. The most certain and general mode of 
catching them is by setting traps in the woods, 
where they perceive them to have been eating the 
bark of the young trees; they bait these traps with 
fresh slips of wood, which the Beaver no sooner 
touches, than a great weight falls and crushes its 
loins, when the huntsman, who lies concealed near 
the spot, hastens to kill it. 

No doubt but by this time you are heartily tired 
with so long a detail of this animal; but if I have 


es 


THROUGH AMERICA ISI 


deviated from the common path of description, I 
can only say it has proceeded from these two causes, 
that I cannot sufficiently admire the many virtues 
It possesses, divested of all manner of vice, and 
have been lost in the contemplation of that Divine 
Being, who formed it with all these natural endow- 
ments. 

You must pardon my making a comparison be- 
tween the societies of these animals and those of a 
convent. If happiness may be said to dwell in both 
communities, it must be allowed to be by very op- 
posite means. The happiness of one consists in fol- 
lowing the dictates of nature; in the other, nature, 
the sweets of social love, and the laws of our crea- 
tion, are totally destroyed! The institution of the 
society of the Beaver, seems solely to propagate its 
species; the other to annihilate it. How many, who 
might have dignified nature under the character of 
a fond mother and an affectionate wife, are lost to 
the world and to themselves! — they cannot help 
feeling tender emotions, and, in the bitterness of 
misery, execrate that tyrant custom, which has 
torn them from the embraces of happiness and 
chained them in cells, a prey to affections hopeless 
and insatiable — the idea carries me beyond my- 
self. 

What will not the feelings of humanity exclaim, 
when it considers that these gloomy and ferocious 
institutions are wasting away in all parts of Eu- 
rope! Institutions not only injurious but inhuman, 
which, under the absurd and ridiculous notion of 


152 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


making men equal to angels, robs health of its 
vigor, and beauty of its reward. 

I am most agreeably interrupted in my serious 
reflections, by a visit from our friend S——, who is 
just arrived from New-York; he was taken prisoner 
in the course of last summer, by a notorious fellow 
of the name of Whitcomb, the same man who shot 
Brigadier General Gordon, the particulars of which 
I shall inform you in my next. 





Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 153 


Peal TR Rex XLV. 
Montreal, Fune 12th, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 

N my last I mentioned to you the name of one 
Whitcomb, a native of Connecticut, and a great 
partizan of the Americans, who, after the defeat 
upon the Lakes, offered his service to venture 
through the woods, and bring in prisoner an Eng- 
lish officer, for which purpose he stationed him- 
self among the thickest copses that are between 
La Prairé and St. John’s. The first officer who hap- 
pened to pass him was Brigadier General Gordon; 
he was mounted on a spirited horse, and Whitcomb 
thinking there was little probability of seizing him, 
fired at and wounded him in the shoulder. The 
General immediately rode as fast as he could to the 
camp at St. John’s, which he had but just reached, 
when with loss of blood and fatigue, he fell from his 
horse; some soldiers took him up and carried him 
to the hospital, where, after his wound was dressed, 
and he was a little at ease, he related the circum- 
stance, which being immediately made known to 
General Carleton, a party of Indians were sent out 
to scour the woods, and search for Whitcomb, but 
in vain, as he hastened back to Ticonderoga. Gen- 
eral Carleton, however, imagining he might be 
lurking about the woods, or secreted in the house 
of some disaffected Canadian, issued out a procla- 
mation among the inhabitants, offering a reward of 


154 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


fifty guineas to any one that would bring Whit- 
comb, alive or dead, to the camp. 

A few days after this General Gordon died of his 
wound, in whose death we sincerely lamented the 
loss of a brave and experienced officer. 

When Whitcomb returned to Ticonderoga, and 
informed the General who commanded there, that 
although he could not take an officer prisoner, he 
believed he had mortally wounded one, the General 
expressed his disapprobation in the highest terms, 
and was so much displeased at the transaction, that 
Whitcomb, in order to effect a reconciliation, of- 
fered his service to go again, professing he would 
forfeit his life, if he did not return with a prisoner. 

He accordingly, with two other men, proceeded 
down Lake Champlain, in a canoe, to a small creek, 
where they secreted it, and repaired to the woods, 
to the same spot where Whitcomb had stationed 
himself before; the two men lay concealed a little 
way in the wood, whilst he skulked about the bor- 
ders of it. 

The regiment of which our friend S is Quar- 
ter-master, having occasion for some stores from 
Montreal, he was going from the campt at St. 
John’s to procure them; he was advised not to go 
this road, but by way of Chamblée, on account of 
the late accident, but you know him to be a man 
of great bravery and personal courage, joined with 
uncommon strength; resolving not to go so many 
miles out of his road for any Whitcomb whatever, 


he jocosely added, that he should be very glad to 





THROUGH AMERICA 155 


meet with him, as he was sure he should get the re- 
ward; in this, however, he was greatly mistaken, 
his reward being no other than that of being taken 
prisoner himself. 

Previous to his setting out he took every precau- 
tion, having not only loaded his fusée, but charged 
a brace of pistols; when he came near to the woods 
I have already scribed, he was very cautious, but in 
an instant, Whitcomb and the two men he had 
with him sprung from behind a thick bush, and 
seized him before he could make the least resist- 
ance; they then took from him his fusée and pistols, 
tied his arms behind him with ropes, and blind- 
folded him. 

It was three days before they reached the ca- 
noe that had been concealed, during which time 
.they had but very scanty fare; a few hard biscuits 
served to allay hunger, while the fruit of the woods 
was a luxury!— When Whitcomb had marched 
him to such a distance as he thought he could not 
make his escape, were he at liberty, through fear of 
losing himself, for the greater ease on his own part, 
and to facilitate their march, they untied his hands, 
and took the cloth from his eyes. Only picture to 
yourself what must have been his feelings, at seeing 
himself in the midst of a thick wood, surrounded by ~ 
three desperate fellows, and uncertain as to their 
intentions! 

At night, when they had partaken of their scanty 
pittance, two out of the three used to sleep, whilst 


the other kept watch. The first night he slept 


156 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


through fatigue; on the second, as you may natu- 
rally suppose, from his great anxiety of mind, he 
could not close his eyes, in the middle of which an 
opportunity occurred whereby he could have ef- 
fected his escape, for the man whose watch it was, 
fell fast asleep. He has since told me how his mind 
wavered for a length of time, what measures to 
pursue; he could not bear the idea of putting them 
to death, though justified by the rules of war: if he 
escaped from them, they might in all probability 
retake and ill-treat him. The great hazard of all, 
which determined him to abide by his fate was, 
that by being so many miles in a tract of wood, 
where he could not tell what direction to take (hav- 
ing been blind-folded when he entered it) he might 
possibly wander up and down till he perished with 
hunger. In this restless state, he remained till day- 
break, when they resumed their march, and in the 
evening came to the creek where the canoe was con- 
cealed; they then secured him again, put him in the 
canoe, and proceeded up the lake to Ticonderoga, 
where they arrived early the next morning. When 
they landed him he was again blind-folded, that he 
might not see their works, and thus conducted to 
the General, whose only motive for endeavouring 
to get an officer was, either by threats or intreaties, 
to gain information relative to our army. In this, 
however, he was greatly disappointed, and as he 
could not obtain the least intelligence from our 
friend, he ordered him as prisoner of war upon his 
parole, to some of the interior towns, from which 


THROUGH AMERICA 167 


place, as I informed you in my last, he is just re- 
turned, as hearty and well as ever. I should not 
have dwelt so long on this subject, but knowing 
you have his welfare so much at heart, that you feel 
yourself interested in whatever concerns him. 

I shall now conclude, but before I do so, let me 
congratulate you on the recovery of your health, 
after so alarming an illness. Good health alone 
sweetens life, and that you may long enjoy it, both 
for your own sake and that of your friends, is the 


ardent wish of 
ee Cours, &c, 


158 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Bd a POG See GD. 


Camp at St. Fohn’s, Fune 14th, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

HAD scarcely finished my last, when I received 

orders to march to this place, and am now enter- 
ing upon the hurry and bustle of an active cam- 
paign. You must not accuse me now of inattention, 
if you should not hear from me so frequently. 

As I observed in a former letter, it was the gen- 
eral opinion the King’s troops would not be pre- 
vented passing Lake Champlain, but wait our ar- 
rival at Ticonderoga; in that case the operations of 
the campaign will commence at Crown Point. It 
would be doing great injustice to those who have 
been stationed at this garrison during the winter, if 
I omitted to mention their great exertions in re- 
pairing, augmenting, and rendering fit for immedi- 
ate service the batteaux, gun-boats, and armed ves- 
sels. The other parts of the army have been equally 
as industrious in establishing magazines at Mon- 
treal, Sorell and Chamblée, which must be effected 
during the frost, not only as the conveyance is easier 
at that time, but on account of the roads, which, by 
the running and melting of the snow, are generally 
impassable for some months. 

By all the accounts that can be collected, the 
Americans are in great force at Ticonderoga, nearly 
to the amount of 12,000, and a considerable num- 
ber occupy Lake George, sustained by a great 


THROUGH AMERICA 159 


naval power, with a view, no doubt, of securing 
their retreat in case they should be obliged to 
abandon Ticonderoga. 

Should the navigation of Lake Champlain be se- 
cured by the superiority of our naval force, the 
advanced corps, under the command of General 
Fraser, with a large body of savages and Cana- 
dians, for scouts and out-works, and the best of our 
engineers and artificers, are to take possession of 
Crown Point, and to fortify it. The intention is 
with a view to prevent insult from the enemy, dur- 
ing the time necessary for collecting stores, forming 
magazines and fortifying posts, all which must be 
accomplished previous to our proceeding in force to 
lay siege to Ticonderoga. 

This brigade being stationed at Crown Point, as 
a check on the enemy, the rest of the army are to 
be employed in forwarding the convoys and trans- 
ports of provisions, removing artillery, preparing 
fascines and other necessaries for artillery opera- 
tions, and to commence the siege; and that the en- 
emy during that period may not rest in tranquil- 
lity, corps of savages, supported by detachments of 
the light infantry, are to keep them in continual 
alarm within their works, at the same time to cover 
reconnoitering parties, both of general officers and 
engineers, and to obtain the best intelligence of 
their strength, position and design. From the great 
preparations that have been made during the win- | 
ter, and by the vigorous exertion of the troops, who 
are in great health and spirits, it may reasonably be 


160 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


expected that the reduction of Ticonderoga will be 
early in the summer, unless some misfortune, hu- 
man prudence cannot foresee, should prevent it, al- 
though it is the general opinion it will be warmly 
contested, and that there will be much blood-shed. 
The Americans, when they drew the sword, must 
have foreseen a bloody contest, and expected all 
the horrors of a war, carried on as it were in their 
own bosoms, laying waste their fields of harvest, 
destroying every comfort, and introducing every 
misery mankind is capable of devising. But had 
certain persons, who were actuated by no other 
motives than a welfare and prosperity to both 
countries, directed their resolves, they would have 
advised a peaceable submission to the Mother 
Country, and easily prevented all the horrors of a 
civil war. America, from a number of aggregate 
fortunate circumstances, by slow degrees, had 
arisen to a state of great prosperity, and the power 
that she had fixed by that prosperity bids fair to be 
of some duration, yet, in my opinion, not to such a 
degree as to establish her independence; her present 
distressed situation, without some other favorable 
circumstance, must inevitably prevent the execu- 
tion of that idea. I am fully persuaded in my own 
mind, had they but reserved their ideas of inde- 
pendency for half a century longer, from their in- 
crease of population and wealth, they would have 
fixed it without much difficulty, or even the assist- 
ance of any other power, and thus become the first 
nation in the world. In the present day, if they at- 


THROUGH AMERICA 161 


tain their boasted end, it must be by the arm of 
some nation, to whom, for want of resources to de- 
fray the expences of their alliance, she will be in 
continual broils and disputes, which may perhaps 
finally terminate in a total subjection, and that ab- 
ject slavery they so ridiculously pretend to dread 
from us. Should this be the case, she will regret the 
loss of that protection from the Mother Country, 
she is now treating with so much ingratitude. Leav- 
ing you to your own remarks, for no doubt you will 
say, “a soldier and a politician!” I shall divert 
your attention from the cabals of mankind, to the 
wonderful productions of nature, in describing to 
you a little animal that was brought me lately, 
called a flying-squirrel. 

This animal takes its name from being provided 
with a skin, or membrane, which adheres to each 
side, about the breadth of three inches, extending 
from its hind to fore feet, where it is connected by a 
bony articulation; it expands this membrane like a 
sail, by which it is enabled to fly from one tree to 
another, at a great distance. Most squirrels will 
jump from tree to tree, when contiguous, but this 
animal will fly an incredible way. Its skin is very 
soft, and of a beautiful dark grey, with eyes large, 
black, and very prominent; it somewhat differs 
from the other squirrels in its taste, caring little for 
nuts, the chief and favorite food being the fresh 
tops of the birch. This little animal makes its bed 
in a very curious manner, of the moss of the same 
tree, in which it lies as it were buried, seldom stir- 


162 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


ring from thence in the day time, unless disturbed. 
I came into possession of it from a little drum-boy’s 
going up a tree after a bird’s nest, who perceiving 
it lay in that dormitory state, seized it and brought 
it to me, for he had heard that I was making a col- 
lection of natural curiosities. By the bye, I beg you 
will inform me, in your next, if you received safe 
the little collection I sent you from Montreal. I 
have added this curious animal, and one of another 
species, called the ground squirrel, which is a little 
larger than a mouse, and most beautifully spotted 
like a fawn, to the collection I am now making, and 
hope they will be considered as tokens of friendship 
from 


Yours, &c. 


a 


THROUGH AMERICA 163 


Pisa CER XX VI 


Camp at River Bouquet, 
upon Lake Champlain, } June 2351777 


My DEAR FRIEND, 

E have proceeded thus far, and, from all ap- 

pearance, shall traverse the remainder of 
our way on the Lake, without meeting any opposi- 
tion from the enemy, their design being, as I before 
mentioned to you, to dispute Ticonderoga; the in- 
telligence from different spies and deserters fully 
confirm us in this opinion, who report, that they 
have labored hard to strengthen, and mean to 
dispute it most vigorously. They are now build- 
ing row-gallies at Fort George, for the defence 
of that lake, and fortifying the road to Skenes- 
borough. 

It seems the Congress have consigned to the four 
New England provinces, as they are excellent axe- 
men, and very expeditious in felling of trees, the 
task of supplying men and provision to oppose the 
progress of our forces, which they have undertaken, 
upon condition of being exempt from supplying 
General Washington’s army. If that really is the 
case, we shall have business enough upon our hands, 
having four of the most powerful and rebellious 
provinces to deal with; they have this advantage 
too, that upon their frontiers, should any disaster 
befall them, it can be so easily recruited, both as to 
men and provisions. 


164 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Having proceeded thus far up the lake, I am en- 
abled to give you some account of it, especially as 
we have passed the broadest part. There are many 
small islands dispersed in different parts, and where 
it is widest, you are not able to discern the opposite 
shore; there are several plantations on each side, 
but they are more numerous on the south, the north 
side being lofty rocky mountains. It abounds with 
great quantities and variety of fish; sturgeon, black 
bass, masquenongez, pike of an incredible size, and 
many others, among which is a cat-fish, which ts 
about eighteen inches long, of a brownish cast, with- 
out scales, having a large round head, resembling 
that of a cat’s, from which it derives its name; they 
have on their heads protuberances similar to the 
horns of a snail, and like them can elevate and de- 
press them at pleasure, and when fully extended, 
are about two inches long; if in liberating one of 
these fish from the hook, it strikes you with one of 
its horns, it leaves an unaccountable and unpleas- 
ant sensation on the part affected for two or three 
days. Its fins are very bony and strong, like those 
of a perch, it commonly weighs about five or six 
pounds; the flesh is fat and luscious, greatly re- 
sembling the flavor of an eel. 

There are at this season of the year prodigious 
flights of pigeons crossing the lake, of a most beau- 
tiful plumage, and in astonishing quantities. 

These are most excellent eating, and that you 
may form some idea as to their number, at one of 
our encampments, the men for one day wholly sub- 


THROUGH AMERICA 165 


sisted on them; fatigued with their flight in cross- 
ing the lake, they alight upon the first branch they 
can reach to, many are so weary as to drop in the 
water, and are easily caught; those that alight upon 
a bough being unable to fly again, the soldiers 
knock down with long poles. 

During the flights of these pigeons, which cross 
this lake into Canada, and are continually flying 
about in large flocks, the Canadians find great 
amusement in shooting them, which they do after 
a very singular manner: in the day time they go 
into the woods, and make ladders by the side of 
the tall pines, which the pigeons roost on, and when 
it is dark they creep softly under and fire up this 
ladder, killing them in great abundance; they then 
strike a light, and firing a knot of the pitch pine, 
pick up those they have killed, and the wounded 
ones that are unable to fly. — During the flights of 
these pigeons, which generally last three weeks or a 
month, the lower sort of Canadians mostly subsist 
on them. 

Now I am upon this subject, it reminds me of 
what Monsieur Blondeaux was continually telling 
me of, /e grand plaisir que j aurai quand I été com- 
mencera en tuant les tourtes; adding, at the same 
time, with great pleasure, amusement que le Cana- 
dien aime beaucoup. However, as to the numbers 
he used always to join with this observation, I gen- 
erally thought my good landlord was setting off his 
country to great advantage by dealing in the mar- 
vellous, and should have been impressed with that 


166 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


idea, had I not been by ocular demonstration con- 
vinced to the contrary. 

Not only at this encampment, but likewise at 
our former ones, we were under the necessity of 
clearing the thick underwood, and cutting down 
the small trees before we could encamp, during 
which time you are almost devoured with the mus- 
quitos, that swarm in great abundance, and are 
continually pestering you till the fires are lighted, 
when the smoke immediately disperses them. 

In clearing the woods for our encampment at 
this place, a very favorite dog of Lord Balcarres’s, 
of the Newfoundland breed, had a most miraculous 
escape; in the very instant that a heavy pine tree 
was falling, the dog run across, the tree fell, and 
crushed the poor creature into the earth; in this 
situation every assistance was given, and when he 
was extricated, he came jumping and frisking up 
to his master, to the surprize of every one, who © 
naturally imagined the creature must have had all 
its bones broken, for when the tree fell, it shook the 
earth some distance round. The preservation of 
the dog is entirely attributed to the nature of the 
soil, which was sandy and pliable. I need not, add, 
after this event, how much his Lordship prizes his 
favorite dog Batteaux. 

Two miles up this river there is a saw-mill, and a 
fall of water, where there is most excellent trout- 
fishing. You who are so fond of the diversion of 
angling, would find most excellent sport in this 
country. How I could wish you here, only for an 


THROUGH AMERICA _ 167 


hour, in that employment, that I might have the 
happiness, for that little time, of conversing with 
you, to ask you a thousand questions, to hear of 
those who are dear to me, to but I must stop 
my reflection and my wishes together. 

Yours, &c. 





168 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Boll Roxx Vala 


Camp at River Bouquet, 
upon Lake Champlain, ; June 24; 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

HIS river derives its name from a Colo- 

nel Bouquet, who commanded an expedition 
against the Indians, whilst Canada was under the 
French Government, as at this place he had a con- 
versation with them upon a treaty of peace. 

It should seem as if it was the destined spot to 
have intercourse with Indians, for yesterday Gen- 
eral Burgoyne had a conference with them; and as 
I am sensible how much our employing Indians in 
this war is reprobated in England, I shall give you 
the General’s speech, and their answer, of which 
you may form your own opinion. When the as- 
sembly were met, the General thus addressed them, 
by means of an interpreter: 

“Chiefs and Warriors, 

“THE great King, our common father, and the 
“patron of all who seek and deserve his protection, 
“has considered with satisfaction the general con- 
“duct of the Indian tribes, from the beginning of the 
“troubles in America. Too sagacious and too faith- 
“ful to be deluded or corrupted, they have ob- 
“served the violated rights of the parental power 
“they love, and burned to vindicate them. A few 
“individuals alone, the refuse of a small tribe, at 
“the first were led astray: and the misrepresenta- 


THROUGH AMERICA 169 


“tions, the specious allurements, the insidious 
“promises, and diversified plots in which the rebels 
“are exercised, and all of which they employed for 
“that effect, have served only in the end to en- 
“hance the honor of the tribes in general, by dem- 
“onstrating to the world how few and how con- 
““temptible are the apostates! It is a truth known 
“to you all, these pitiful examples excepted (and 
“they have probably before this day hid their faces 
““in shame) the collective voices and hands of the 
“Indian tribes over this vast continent, are on the 
“side of justice, of law, and the King. 

“The restraint you have put upon your resent- 
“ment in waiting the King your father’s call to 
“arms, the hardest proof, I am persuaded, to which 
“your affection could have been put, is another 
“manifest and affecting mark of your adherence to 
“that principle of connection to which you were 
“always fond to allude, and which is the mutual 
“joy and the duty of the parent to cherish. 

“The clemency of your father has been abused, 
“the offers of his mercy have been despised, and his 
“farther patience would, in his eyes, become culpa- 
“ble, in as much as it would with-hold redress from 
“the most grievous oppressions in the provinces, 
“that ever disgraced the history of mankind. It 
“therefore remains for me, the General of one of 
“his Majesty’s armies, and in this council his repre- 
“sentative, to release you from those bonds which 
“your obedience imposed — Warriors you are free 
“go forth in might and valor of your cause — 


170 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


“strike at the common enemies of Great Britain 
“and America — disturbers of public order, peace 
“and happiness, destroyers of commerce, parri- 
“cides of state.” 3 

The General then directing their attentions, by 
pointing to the officers, both German and British, 
that attended this meeting, proceeded: 

“The circle round you, the chiefs of his Majesty’s 
“European forces, and of the Princes his allies, 
“esteem you as brothers in the war; emulous in 
“glory and in friendship, we will endeavor recipro- 
“cally to give and to receive examples; we know 
“how to value, and we will strive to imitate your 
““ perseverance in enterprize and your constancy, to 
“resist hunger, weariness and pain. Be it our task, 
“from the dictates of our religion, the laws of our 
“warfare, and the principles and interest of our 
“policy, to regulate your passions when they over- - 
“bear, to point out where it is nobler to spare than 
“to revenge, to discriminate degrees of guilt, to 
“suspend the uplifted stroke, to chastise and not 
“to destroy. 

“This war to you my friends is new; upon all 
“former occasions, in taking the field, you held 
“yourselves authorized to destroy wherever you 
““came, because every where you found an enemy. 
“The case is now very different. 

“The King has many faithful subjects dispersed 
“in the provinces, consequently you have many 
“brothers there, and these people are more to be 
“pitied, that they are persecuted or imprisoned 


THROUGH AMERICA 171 


¢ 


“wherever they are discovered or suspected, and to 
“dissemble, to a generous mind, is a yet more griev- 
“ous punishment. 

“Persuaded that your magnanimity of char- 
*‘acter, joined to your principles of affection to the 
“ King, will give me fuller controul over your minds, 
“than the military rank with which I am invested. 
“T enjoin your most serious attention to the rules 
“which I hereby proclaim for your invariable ob- 
“servation during the campaign.” 

After answering, Etow! Etow! in their language 
signifying approbation, they appeared to pay very 
great attention to the interpreter, eager to catch 
the General’s instructions. 

“T positively forbid blood-shed, when you are 
“not opposed in arms. 

“‘Aged men, women, children and prisoners, must 
“be held sacred from the knife or hatchet, even in 
“the time of actual conflict. 

“You shall receive compensation for the prison- 
“ers you take, but you shall be called to account for 
“scalps. 

“Tn conformity and indulgence of your customs, 
“which have affixed an idea of honor to such badges 
“of victory, you shall be allowed to take the scalps 
“of the dead, when killed by your fire and in fair 
“opposition; but on no account, or pretence, or 
“subtilty, or prevarication, are they to be taken 
“from the wounded, or even dying; and still less 
““pardonable, if possible, will it be held, to kill men 
“in that condition, on purpose, and upon a sup- 


172 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


“position that this protection to the wounded 
“would be thereby evaded. 

“Base, lurking assassins, incendiaries, ravagers 
“and plunderers of the country, to whatever army 
“they may belong, shall be treated with less re- 
“serve; but the latitude must be given you by 
“order, and I must be the judge on the occa- 
“sion. 

“Should the enemy, on their parts, dare to coun- 
“tenance acts of barbarity towards those who may 
“fall into their hands, it shall be yours also to re- 
“taliate: but till this severity be thus compelled, 
“bear immoveable in your hearts this solid maxim, 
~“(it cannot be too deeply impressed) that the 
“great essential reward, the worthy service of your 
“alliance, the sincerity of your zeal to the King, 
“your father and never-failing protector, will be 
“‘examined and judged upon the test only of your 
“steady and uniform adherence to the orders and 
‘counsels of those to whom his Majesty has en- 
“trusted the direction and honor of his arms.” 

After the General had finished his speech, they 
all of them cried out, Etow! Etow! Etow! and after 
remaining some little time in consultation, an old 
Chief of the Iroquois rose up, and made the fol- 
lowing answer: 

“J stand up in the name of all the nations present 
“to:assure our father, that we have attentively lis- 
““tened to his discourse — we receive you as our 
“father, because when you speak we hear the voice 
“of our great father beyond the great lake. 


THROUGH AMERICA 173 


“We rejoice in the approbation you have ex- 
“pressed of our behaviour. 

“We have been tried and tempted by the Bos- 
“‘tonians; but we have loved our father, and our 
“hatchets have been sharpened upon our affec- 
* tions. 

“In proof of the sincerity of our professions, our 
“whole villages, able to go to war, are come forth. 
“The old and infirm, our infants and wives, alone 
“remain at home. 

“With one common assent, we promise a con- 
“stant obedience to all you have ordered, and all 
“you shall order, and may the father of days give 
“you many, and success.” 

After the Chief of the Zroguozs had finished, they 
all as before cried out, Etow! Etow! Etow! and the 
meeting broke up. 

One of the General’s Aid-de-Camps informed me, 
that the General was highly pleased to find the In- 
dians so tractable, hoping the essential service to be 
expected, would be obtained in employing them. It 
is through the friendship of Captain****, who took 
the speeches down, that I am enabled to send them 
to you. 

Orders being given that the army is to embark 
to-morrow at day-break, to proceed up the lake, 
and having many things to adjust, I hope you will 
pardon my making a hasty conclusion, and remain, 


Yours, &c. 


174 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LE DT E.R Xx. ii 


Camp at Button-Mole-Bay, Fines 
upon Lake Champlain, HUE nee 


My DEAR FRIEND, 


FTER the meeting of the Indians at river Bou- 

quet, the General ordered them some liquor, 

and they had a war-dance, in which they throw 
themselves in various postures, every now and then 
making most hideous yells; as to their appearance, 
nothing more horrid can you paint to your imagina- 
tion, being dressed in such an outre manner, some 
with the skins of bulls with the horns upon their 
heads, others with a great quantity of feathers, and 
many in a state of total nudity: there was one 
among them at whose modesty I could not help 
smiling, and who, rather than be divested of any 
covering, had tied a blackbird before him. Joined to 
these strange dresses, and added to the grotesque 
appearance, they paint their faces of various colors, 
with a view to inspire an additional horror. It is al- 
most incredible to think what a prodigious degree of 
conceit and foppery reigns amongst the savages in 
decorating their persons, perhaps not inferior to 
that by which alone some of our pretty fellows of 
the present age so conspicuously distinguish them- 
selves. The following striking instance of it, sev- 
eral other officers, as well as myself, were eye-wit- 
nesses to, and it afforded us no small entertainment: 
In our way to their encampment, we observed a 


THROUGH AMERICA 175 


young Indian who was preparing for the war-dance, 
seated under a wigwam, with a small looking-glass 
placed before him, and surrounded with several 
papers, filled with different paints. At our stopping 
to observe him, he was at first a little disconcerted, 
and appeared displeased, but soon after proceeded 
to adorn himself. He first smeared his face with a 
little bear’s grease, then rubbed in some vermil- 
lion, then a little black, blue, and green paints, and 
having viewed himself for some time in the glass, in 
a rage he wiped it all off, and began again, but with 
no better success, still appearing dissatisfied. We 
went on to the council, which lasted near two hours, 
and on our return found the Indian in the same po- 
sition, and at the same employment, having nearly 
consumed all his stock of colors! What a pity it is 
the ladies in England, adepts in this art, have not 
such a variety of tints to exercise their genius with! 
— in my mind, if they must paint, the more ridicu- 
lous they appear, the better. 

Bear’s grease, indeed, would not be a very deli- 
cate perfume, but no matter —— if nature must be 
patched up, it little signifies with what! I 
could laugh at the streaks on an Indian, but am . 
struck with contempt at the airs put on by your 
flirts, from a penny-worth of carmine, and touched 
with pity when szxty would assume the glow of 
jifteen, through a false shame, or a childish want of 
admiration! 

An Indian’s idea of war consists in never fighting 
in an open field, but upon some very extraordinary 





176 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


occasion, for they consider this method as un- 
worthy an able warrior, and as an affair in which 
fortune governs, more than prudence or courage. 

They are of essential service in either defending 
or invading a country, being extremely skilful in 
the art of surprizing, and watching the motions of 
an enemy. 

On a secret expedition they light no fire to warm 
themselves, nor prepare their victuals, but subsist 
merely on the miserable pittance of some of their 
meal mixed with water; they lie close to the ground 
all day, and only march in the night; while halting 
to rest and refresh themselves, scouts are sent out 
on every side to reconnoitre the country, and beat 
up every place where they suspect an enemy can 
lie concealed. Two of the principal things that en- 
able them to find out their enemies, is the smoke of 
their fires, which they smell at a vast distance, and 
their tracks, in the discovery and distinguishing of 
which they are possessed of a sagacity equally as- 
tonishing, for they will discern by the footsteps, 
that to us would appear extremely confused, nearly 
the number of men, and the length of time since 
they passed; this latter circumstance was con- 
firmed to me by an officer, who has the superin- 
tending of their tribes. Being out upon a scout with 
them, they discerned some footsteps, when the 
Indians told him that seven or eight people had 
passed that way, and that only two or three days 
since: they had not gone far, before they came to a 
plantation with a house upon it, and as is the cus- 





THROUGH AMERICA 177 


tom with the Indians, ran up to it, and surprized 
a scouting party of the Americans, consisting of 
seven, who had come there the over-night. 

In travelling through the woods, they carefully 
observe the trees, especially the tall pines, which 
are for the most part void of foliage, on the branches 
that are exposed to the north wind, the trunk on 
that side having the bark extremely rugged, by 
which they ascertain the direction to be taken; and 
for the more easy discovery of their way back again, 
their tomahawks are continually blazing the trees, 
which is cutting off a small piece of the bark, and as 
they march along they break down the underwood. 

Every Indian is a hunter, and their manner of 
making war is of the same nature, only changing 
the object, by skulking, surprizing and killing those 
of their own species, instead of the brute creation. 

There is an indisputable necessity of having In- 
dians, where Indians are employed against you, 
unless we had men enough of our own trained up in 
that sort of military exercise, as our European dis- 
cipline is of little avail in the woods against savages. 

The reason of my dwelling so much on the sub- 
ject of Indians, is because I am sensible how re- 
pugnant it is to the feelings of an Englishman to 
employ them, and how much their cruelty and bar- 
barity has been exaggerated. 

They fight, as those opposed against them fight; 
we must use the same means as our enemies, to be 
but on an equal footing with them. I often reflect 
on that laconic speech a great and gallant officer 


178 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


made to his men, in the last war, previous to their 
going to battle, “there, my brave lads, there’s the 
“enemy, and, by God, if you do not kill them, 
“they'll kill you.” 

There is a very great natural curiosity upon 
Lake Champlain; I am led to imagine that it was 
originally two lakes. About the center of it the 
land contracts to such a degree, that it appears as 
if the rock had been separated by an earthquake; 
the passage between what are now two rocks, was 
but just wide enough for our large ships to pass 
through, and that only with a fair wind, on account 
of the current. You'll allow the place to be very 
justly named Split-Rock. 

This bay, where our present encampment is, lies 
on the south side of the lake, and derives its name 
from the pebbles, of which great abundance are 
thrown up on the shores, the exact form of a but- 
ton-mould, and where those of wood or horn could 
not be procured, would be no bad substitute. 

Just before we entered this bay, there came on a 
most violent and unexpected squall, occasioned by 
the land winds blowing from the top of the high 
mountains on the north side of the lake; it was but 
of short duration, but very terrible while it lasted. 
You will form some idea how powerful, and with 
what violence it blows from these mountains, from 
the following circumstance: A small brig belonging 
to the fleet, with very little sail, was in an instant 
laid flat on her side, and the crew were obliged to 
cut away the masts, to make her rise again. The 





THROUGH AMERICA 179 


lake was vastly agitated, you may easily judge how 
very dangerous it must have been to the small dat- 
teaux, which are constructed with flat bottoms, and 
quite ungovernable when it blows hard. Though 
the men who rowed the datteaux in which I was 
were continually relieved, it was with much diffi- 
culty they could bring her into this bay, their 
strength being almost exhausted. However, the 
whole brigade got safe, except two datteaux that 
were swamped just as they got close in shore, but 
as it was not out of a man’s depth, no lives were 
lost. 

During this storm I dreaded much for the fate of 
the Indians in their birch canoes, whom I thought 
must have inevitably been sunk; upon reflection, 
indeed, they did not seem to be in such personal 
danger, as both male and female, above the state of 
infancy, are eternally in the water; to the surprize 
of every one, however, their canoes rose to every 
wave, and floated like a cork, which must be en- 
tirely owing to the lightness of their construction; 
this lightness obliged them to remain some time 
upon the lake after we had landed, lest the waves 
should dash their canoes against the shore and 
destroy them. 

I omitted to mention in my last, that at the 
mouth of the river Bouquet there is a small island, 
on which were found several young fawns, where 
the does had swam across to drop them, as if by a 
natural instinct sensible that the buck would de- 
stroy her young. A-soldier of the company, who 


180 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


had been on this island, got one, which he pre- 
sented to his Captain; it was beautifully marked, 
and so young, that it could scarcely walk; we put 
it on board the datteaux, but during the storm it 
was washed overboard, and every effort to save it 
proved ineffectual, without hazarding the lives of 
those in the batteaux. 
Every day, as Addison says, grows 
“ Big with the fate of Cato and of Rome.” 


To-morrow we embark from this place to Crown 
~ Point, where our operations commence against the 
enemy. Rest assured I shall embrace every oppor- 
tunity of sending you the particulars of our pro- 
ceeding. 

Yours, &c. 





THROUGH AMERICA 181 


Pier Rx XTX 


Camp at Crown Point, Fune 30, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


FE, are now within sight of the enemy, and 

their watch-boats are continually rowing 
about, but beyond the reach of cannon shot. Be- 
fore I proceed farther, let me just relate in what 
manner the army passed the lake, which was by 
brigades, generally advancing from seventeen to 
twenty miles a day, and regulated in such a manner, 
that the second brigade should take the encamp- 
ment of the first, and so on successively, for each 
brigade to fill the ground the other quitted; the 
time for departure was always at day-break. 

One thing appeared to me very singular, which I 
am not philosopher enough to account for; in sail- 
ing up the lake, on all the islands and points of land, 
the water seemed to separate the trees from the 
land, and to pass in a manner through them, hav- 
ing the appearance of small brush wood, at a very 
little heighth from the water; nor do the trees ap- 
pear to come in contact with the land, till you ap- 
proach within two or three miles of the object, 
when they show themselves to be distinctly joined. 

I cannot forbear picturing to your imagination 
one of the most pleasing spectacles I ever beheld. 
When we were in the widest part of the lake, whose 
beauty and extent I have already described, it was 
remarkably fine and clear, not a breeze stirring, 


182 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


when the whole army appeared at one view in such 
perfect regularity, as to form the most compleat 
and splendid regatta you can possibly conceive. A 
sight so novel and pleasing, could not fail of fixing 
the admiration and attention of every one present. 

In the front, the Indians went with their birch 
canoes, containing twenty or thirty in each, then 
the advanced corps in a regular line, with the gun- 
boats, then followed the Royal George and Inflex- 
ible, towing large booms, which are to be thrown 
across two points of land, with the other brigs and 
sloops following; after them the first brigade in a 
regular line, then the Generals Burgoyne, Phillips, 
and Riedesel in their pinnaces; next to them were 
the second brigade, followed by the German bri- 
gades, and the rear was brought up with the sutlers 
and followers of the army. Upon the appearance 
of so formidable a fleet, you may imagine they were 
not a little dismayed at Ticonderoga, for they were 
apprized of our advance, as we every day could see 
their watch-boats. We had, it is certain, a very 
strong naval force, but yet it might have been 
greatly in the power of the Americans to have pre- 
vented our passing the lake so rapidly as we have 
done, especially as there are certain parts of it 
where a few armed vessels might have stopped us 
for some time: but it is an invariable maxim with 
the Americans, of which there are numberless in- 
stances in the last campaign, never to face an enemy 
but with very superior advantages, and the most 
evident signs and prospects of success. 


THROUGH AMERICA 183 


The army is nowassembling in order tocommence 
the siege, as soon as the artillery stores arrive from 
Canada, which are daily expected. People in Eng- 
land, whose rapidity of ideas keep pace with their 
good wishes, little imagine that the distance from 
this place to Canada is ninety miles, therefore the 
time it takes to bring forward stores is necessarily 
considerable. To the great praise of General Carle- 
ton, however, very little delay has yet occurred, for 
he forwards the stores very expeditiously, and how- 
ever ill-treated many people suppose he is, or how- 
ever he may conceive himself so, in not having the 
command of this army, after being the commander 
in the last campaign, he lets no pique or ill-will 
divert him from doing all the real service in his 
power to his King and country. 

In a former letter I mentioned, that we were to 
intrench at this place: but however measures may 
be concerted with the utmost judgment and precau- 
tion for succeeding, yet when an army has advanced 
to the place they are to invest, the General is often 
convinced, that neither the description of others, 
nor the delineation of maps and charts have been so 
perfect in every particular, as not to make some 
change in the intended dispositions necessary, 
which is exactly our present situation, as orders are 
given out for us to embark to-morrow. What will 
be the future operations of the army, after the re- 
duction of Ticonderoga, it is impossible to say, but 
some vigorous measures, no doubt, are to be pur- 
sued, as an extract from the General’s orders will 


184 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


point out to you. It is generally believed, however, 
that the army is to force its way into Albany. The 
extract is as follows: 

“This army embarks to-morrow to approach the 
‘enemy. The services required. of this particular 
“expedition, are critical and conspicuous. During 
“our progress occasions may occur, in which nor 
“difficulty, nor labor, nor life are to be regarded. 
“This army must not retreat.” From the last sen- 
tence, it is a general and fixed opinion throughout 
the whole army, that vigorous exertions are to 
be made against any opposition, however supe- 
rior, we may encounter. For such an expedition the 
army are in the best condition that can be expected 
or wished, the troops in the highest spirits, admir- 
ably disciplined, and remarkably healthy. 

I omitted to mention, that shortly after the con- 
sultation with the Indians at the river Bouguet, the 
General issued out amanifesto, which was circulated 
in the frontiers and province of Connecticut, calcu- 
lated to spread terror among the most rebellious, to 
enforce upon their minds an impression of fear, of 
the cruel operations of savages, whom he now 
could restrain, and their eagerness to be let loose; 
at the same time, in the most expressive language, 
informing them, that powerful forces were co-oper- 
ating, both by sea and land, to crush this unnatural 
rebellion; inveighing strongly on the conduct of the 
present Governors and Governments here as being 
the cause of its continuance, and exhibiting, in the 
most lively manner, their injustice, cruelty, persecu- 


¢ 


THROUGH AMERICA 185 


tion and tyranny; encouraging those whose dis- 
position and abilities would assist in redeeming 
their country from slavery, and re-establishing its 
former government; offering protection and secu- 
rity to those who continued peaceable in their hab- 
itations, and denouncing all the calamities and 
outrages of war to such as should persevere in hos- 
tilities. How far it may operate in this part of the 
continent, I have my fears, as the New-England 
Provinces are the most violent in their principles 
of rebellion. 

During our stay at this place, which has been 
only three days, the rear of the army is come up, 
and the magazines and hospitals are established, 
therefore the operations against Ticonderoga will 
immediately commence. 

I am truly sensible how averse you were to my 
entering the army, but when once immerged, It 
would be folly in the extreme to say, that I wished 
to retract. Although I am not an enthusiast in re- 
ligion, still you know I ever held in the greatest ven- 
eration the supreme Disposer of Events, and am 
not insensible of his protecting hand, a soldier has 
many hair-breadth escapes; but should it be the 
fate of war, and the will of Providence that I should 
fall, I shall die with the pleasing reflection of hav- 
ing served my King and country. If I survive, you 
may rest assured of my embracing every opportu- 
nity to inform you ofmy destiny, and howtruly lam, 

Yours, &c. 


186 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LE GT ER xXx 


Camp before Ticonderoga, Fuly 5, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

E are now arrived before a place that is not 

more talked of this war than the last, on ac- 
count of the memorable siege that then happened, 
in which that gallant officer was slain, who, could 
his immortal spirit rise from its cold mansion, 
would no doubt be highly pleased to see his off- 
spring, one placed at the head of naval line, and the 
other of the army, advancing the pleasing task of 
restoring peace to a deluded people, led on by a set 
of factious men, to a most unnatural rebellion. 

By the scouting parties just returned we learn, 
that there is a brigade which occupies the old 
French lines on a height, to the north of the fort of 
Ticonderoga; the lines are in good repair, with sev- 
eral intrenchments behind them, supported by a 
block-house; they have another post at the saw- 
mills, the foot of the carrying-place to Lake George, 
and a block-house upon an eminence above the 
mills, together with a block-house and hospital at 
the entrance of the lake. 

Upon the right of the lines, between them and 
the old fort, are two new block-houses, and a con- 
siderable battery close to the water’s edge. But it 
seems the Americans have employed their utmost 
industry where they are in the greatest force, upon 
Mount Independence, which is extremely lofty and 


THROUGH AMERICA 187 


circular. On the summit of the mount they have a 
star fort made of pickets, well supplied with artil- 
lery, and a large square of barracks within it; that 
side of the hill which projects into the lake is well 
intrenched, and has a strong abattis close to the 
water, which is lined with heavy artillery pointing 
down the lake, flanking the water battery, and sus- 
tained by another about half way up the hill. 
Fortified as the enemy are, nothing but a regular 
siege can dispossess them. 

There has been a skirmish with the Indians and 
a small party of the enemy, who were reconnoiter- 
ing, in which they were driven back into their lines; 
the Indians were so rash as to pursue them within 
reach of their cannon, when several were killed and 
wounded. Upon the firing of their artillery, the 
brigade were ordered under arms, and shortly after 
the Indians brought the killed and wounded upon 
litters, covered with leaves. It was thought this 
would have been a check upon them, as the first 
that fell was of their party, but it seems rather to 
stimulate their valor. 

As our friend M was looking through a brass 
reflecting telescope at the enemy’s works, he cried 
out shot, and we had scarcely dropt down, before 
we were covered with dust. He saw them run out 
the cannon of the embrasure, and what I imagine 
contributed to their pointing them, was the reflec- 
tion of the sun upon the telescope. After they had 
discovered our situation, they fired several shot, 
but without doing any mischief. 





188 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


A very singular circumstance has occured at this 
encampment. This morning, a little after day- 
break, the centinel of the picquet guard saw a man 
in the woods, reading a book, whom the centinel 
challenged, but being so very intent on his studies, 
he made no reply, when the soldier ran up to, and 
seized him; upon waking from his reverie, he told 
the centinel he was Chaplain to the 47th regiment, 
but it being a suspicious circumstance, he was de- 
tained till the soldier was relieved, who took him to 
the Captain of the picquet, from whence he was 1m- 
mediately sent to General Fraser’s quarters. Gen- 
eral Fraser supposing it was a finesse, for the 47th 
regiment was stationed two or three miles in the 
rear, and the General thinking himself perfectly ac- 
quainted with every clergyman in the army, began 
tomake several enquiries concerning the Americans, 
at which he was more perplexed, and still persisted 
in his first story. What greatly contributed to these 
tnistakes, the man’s appearance was not altogether 
in his favor, being in dishabille. General Fraser not 
being able to make any thing of him, sent him with 
an officer to General Burgoyne, who had no knowl- 
edge of him. To clear up the matter, the Colonel of 
the 47th regiment was sent for, who informed the 
General that he was the gentleman who had deliv- 
ered a letter from General Carleton, and had only 
joined the regiment from Canada the preceding 
evening. The studious gentleman little foresaw to 
what dangers he had exposed himself by his morn- 

ing ramble, till he was stopped by the centinel. 


THROUGH AMERICA 189 


You will naturally think he had enough to cure 
him from these perambulations in the woods. 
About three days since a great smoke was ob- 
served towards Lake George, and the scouts 
brought in a report, that the enemy had set fire to 
the farthest block-house, had abandoned the saw- 
mills, and that a considerable body was advancing 
from the lines towards a bridge, upon a road which 
led from the saw-mills to the right of our encamp- 
ment. A detachment from our corps, supported by 
the second brigade, and some light artillery, under 
the command of General Phillips, were then ordered 
to proceed to Mount Hope, to reconnoitre the en- 
emy’s position, and to take advantage of any post 
they might either abandon or be driven from. 
The Indians under the command of Captain 
Frazer, supported by his company of marksmen, 
(which were volunteer companies from each regi- 
ment of the British) were directed to make a circuit 
on the left of our encampment, to cut off the retreat 
of the enemy to their lines: this design, however, 
was frustrated by the impetuosity of the Indians, 
who attacked too soon, which enabled the enemy to 
retire with little loss. General Phillips took Mount 
Hope, which cut off the enemy from any communi- 
cation with Lake George; after which we quitted 
our former encampment, and occupied this post, 
which is now in great force, there being the whole of 
General Fraser’s corps, the first British brigade, and 
two brigades of artillery. The enemy have cannon- 
aded the camp, but without effect, and continued 


190 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the same the next day, while the army were em- 
ployed in getting up the artillery tents, baggage, 
and provisions, during which time we never fired a 
single cannon. 

This day Luitenant Twiss, the conning en- 
gineer, was ordered to reconnoitre Sugar-Hill, on 
the south side of the communication from Lake | 
George into Lake Champlain, part of which the 
light-infantry had taken possession of last night; he 
reported this hill to have the entire command of the 
works and buildings, both at Ticonderoga and 
Mount Independence, of about 1400 yards from 
the former, and 1500 from the latter; that the 
ground might be levelled so as to receive cannon, 
and that the road to convey them, though ex- 
tremely difficult, might be accomplished in twenty- 
four hours. This hill also commanded the bridge 
of communication, and from it they could see the 
exact situation of their vessels; and what was an- 
other very great advantage, from the possession of 
this post, the enemy, during the day, could not 
make any material movement or preparation, with- 
out being discovered, and even their numbers 
counted. Upon this report of Lieutenant Twiss, 
It was determined a battery should be raised on 
this post, for light twenty-four pounders, medium 
twelves, and eight inch howitzers, which very ardu- 
ous undertaking is now carrying on so rapidly, that 
there is little doubt but it will be compleated and 
ready to open upon the enemy to-morrow morning. 
Great praise is due to the zeal and activity of Gen- 


THROUGH AMERICA Ig! 


eral Phillips, who has the direction of this operation: 
he has as expeditiously conveyed cannon to the 
summit of this hill, as he brought it up in that mem- 
orable battle at Minden, where, it is said, such was 
his anxiousness in expediting the artillery, that he 
split no less than fifteen canes in beating the horses; 
at which battle he so gallantly distinguished him- 
self, by the management of his artillery, as totally 
to rout the French. 

I am happy to embrace the opportunity of send- 
ing this by a sutler, who is returning down the lake 
to St. John’s. Be assured you shall know every 
event of this important siege, by the first convey- 
ance that presents itself. Adieu. 


Yours, &c. 


192 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


L Bete ERX Xa 


Camp at Skenesborough, Fuly 12, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, | 


O doubt, after so much as I have repeatedly 

mentioned to you in my former letters rela- 
tive to Ticonderoga, and the vigorous defence it was 
universally supposed the enemy would make, you 
will be greatly surprized to receive a letter from me, 
at so great a distance beyond that important post; 
fully to explain to you the manner of the Americans 
abandoning it, and our progress to this place, I must 
proceed a little methodically in my description. 

After we had gained possession of Sugar-Hill, on 
the 5th instant, that very evening we observed the 
enemy making great fires; it was then generally 
thought they were meditating an attack, or that 
they were retreating, which latter circumstance 
really was the case, for about day-break intelligence 
was brought to General Fraser, that the enemy 
were retiring, when the picquets were ordered to 
advance, which the brigades, as soon as they were 
accoutred, were to follow. 

They were soon ready, and marched down to the 
works; when we came to the bridge of communica- 
tion, we were obliged to halt till it was sufficiently 
repaired for the troops to pass, as the enemy, in 
their abandoning the works, had destroyed it, and 
had left four men, who were, upon the approach of 


our army, to have fired off the cannon of a large 


THROUGH AMERICA 193 


battery that defended it, and retire as quick as pos- 
sible. No doubt this was their intention, as they 
left their lighted matches close to the cannon. 

Had these men obeyed their instructions, they 
would, situated as our brigade was, have done great 
mischief; but, allured by the sweets of plunder and 
liquor, instead of obeying their orders, we found them 
dead drunk by a cask of Madeira. This battery, 
however, had, through the folly of an Indian, nearly 
been productive of fatal consequences to the gth 
regiment, for just at the time it was passing the 
bridge, as he was very curious in examining every 
thing that came in his way, he took up a match that 
lay on the ground, with some fire still remaining in 
it, when a spark dropping upon the priming of a can- 
non, it went off, loaded with all manner of combus- 
tibles, but it fortunately happened the gun was so 
elevated, no mischief ensued. 

In a short time after the bridge was rendered 
passable, our brigade crossed, and we advanced up 
to the picqueted fort, where the British colours were 
instantly hoisted. The Americans certainly had 
planned some scheme, which proved abortive, and 
which was left perhaps to the commission of those 
men who remained behind, for the ground was 
strewed all over with gunpowder, and there were 
likewise several casks of it with the tops struck 
out. 

After we had remained some little time in the 
fort, orders came for the advanced corps to march 
in pursuit of the enemy, who, we were informed, 


194 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


had gone to Huberton, in order to harrass their rear. 
We marched till one o’clock, in a very hot and sul- 
try day, over a continued succession of steep and 
woody hills; the distance I cannot ascertain, but we 
were marching very expeditiously from four in the 
morning to that time. 

On our march we picked up several stragglers, 
from whom General Fraser learnt that the rear- 
guard of the enemy was composed of chosen men, 
commanded by a Colonel Francis, who was reck- 
oned one of their best officers. 

During the time the advanced corps halted to re- 
fresh, General Riedesel came up, and after consult- 
ing with General Fraser, and making arrangements 
for continuing the pursuit, we marched forward © 
again three miles nearer the enemy, to an advan- 
tageous situation, where we lay that night on our 
arms. 

At three in the morning our march was renewed, 
and about five we came up with the enemy, who 
were busily employed in cooking their provisions. — 

Major Grant, of the 24th regiment, who had the 
advanced guard, attacked their picquets, which 
were soon driven in to the main body. From this 
attack we lament the death of this very gallant and 
brave officer, who in all probability fell a victim to 
the great disadvantages we experience peculiar to 
this unfortunate contest, those of the rifle-men. 
Upon his coming up with the enemy, he got upon 
the stump of a tree to reconnoitre, and had hardly 
given the men orders to fire, when he was struck by. 


THROUGH AMERICA 195 


a rifle ball, fell off the tree, and never uttered an- 
other syllable. 

The light infantry then formed, as well as the 
24th regiment, the former of which suffered very 
much from the enemy’s fire, particularly the com- 
panies of the 29th and 34th regiments. The grena- | 
diers were ordered to form to prevent the enemy’s 
getting to the road that leads to Castle-Town, 
which they were endeavouring to do, and were re- 
pulsed, upon which they attempted their retreat by 
a very steep mountain to Pittsford. The grenadiers 
scrambled up an ascent which appeared almost in- 
accessible, and gained the summit of the mountain 
before them; this threw them into great confusion, 
and that you may form some idea how steep the as- 
cent must have been, the men were obliged to sling 
their firelocks and climb up the side, sometimes 
resting their feet upon the branch of a tree, and 
sometimes on a piece of the rock; had any been so 
unfortunate as to have missed his hold, he must 
inevitably been dashed to pieces. 

Although the grenadiers had gain’d the summit 
of this mountain, and the Americans had lost great 
numbers of their men, with their brave commander 
Col. Francis, still they were far superior in numbers 
to the British, and the contest remained doubtful 
till the arrival of the Germans, when the Americans 
fled on all sides, whose numbers amounted to 2000; 
they were opposed only by 850 British, as it was 
near two hours before the Germans made their ap- 
pearance. 


196 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


General Riedesel had come to the field of action 
a considerable time before his troops, and in the 
course of the action passing by him, I could not help 
feeling for his situation, for the honor of a brave 
officer, who was pouring forth every imprecation 
against his troops, for their not arriving at the place 
of action time enough to earn the glories of the day. 

Upon their arrival, we were apprehensive, by the 
noise we heard, that a reinforcement had been sent 
back from the main body of the American army 
for the support of their rear-guard, for they be- 
gan singing psalms on their advance, and at the 
same time kept up an incessant firing, which totally 
decided the fate of the day; but even after the ac- 
tion was over, there were lurking parties hovering 
about the woods. 

During the battle the Americans were guilty of 
such a breach of all military rules, as could not 
fail to exasperate our soldiers. The action was 
chiefly in woods, interspersed with a few open 
fields. Two companies of grenadiers, who were 
stationed in the skirts of the wood, close to one of 
these fields, to watch that the enemy did not out- 
flank the 24th regiment, observed a number of 
the Americans, to the amount of near sixty, com- 
ing across the field, with their arms clubbed, 
which is always considered to be a surrender as 
prisoners of war. The grenadiers were restrained 
from firing, commanded to stand with their arms, 
and shew no intention of hostility: when the Ameri- 
cans had got within ten yards, they in an instant 


THROUGH AMERICA 197 


turned round their musquets, fired upon the grena- 
diers, and run as fast as they could into the woods; 
their fire killed and wounded a great number of men, 
and those who escaped immediately pursued them, 
and gave no quarter. 

This war is very different to the last in Germany; 
in this the life of an individual is sought with as 
much avidity as the obtaining a victory over an 
army of thousands, of which the following is a 
melancholy instance: 

After the action was over, and all firing had ceased 
for near two hours, upon the summit of the moun- 
tain I have already described, which had no ground 
any where that could command it, a number of offi- 
cers were collected to read the papers taken out of 
the pocket book of Colonel Francis, when Captain 
Shrimpton, of the 62d regiment, who had the pa- 
pers in his hand, jumped up and fell, exclaiming, 
“he was severely wounded;”’ we all heard the ball 
whiz by us, and turning to the place from whence 
the report came, saw the smoke: as there was every 
reason to imagine the piece was fired from some 
tree, a party of men were instantly detached, but 
could find no person, the fellow, no doubt, as soon 
as he had fired, had slipt down and made his escape. 

About five o’clock in the afternoon, the grena- 
diers were ordered from the summit of the moun- 
tain to join the light infantry and 24th regiment, on 
an advantageous situation; in our cool moments, 
in descending, every one was astonished how he had 
ever gained the summit. — For my own part, it ap- 


198 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


peared as if I should never reach the bottom; but 
my descent was greatly retarded by conducting 
Major Ackland, who was wounded in the thigh. 

In this action I found all manual exercise is but 
an ornament, and the only object of importance it 
can boast of was that of loading, firing, and charg- 
ing with bayonets: as to the former, the soldiers 
should be instructed in the best and most expedi- 
tious method. Here I cannot help observing to you, 
whether it proceeded from an idea of self preserva- 
tion, or natural instinct, but the soldiers greatly 
improved the mode they were taught in, as to ex- 
pedition, for as soon as they had primed their pieces, 
and put the cartridge into the barrel, instead of 
ramming it down with their rods, they struck the 
butt end of their piece upon the ground, and bring- 
ing it to the present, fired it off. The confusion of a 
man’s ideas during the time of action, brave as he 
may be, is undoubtedly great; several of the men, 
upon examining their muskets, after all was over, 
found five or six cartridges, which they were posi- 
tive to the having discharged. 

Deferring the remainder of the particulars of this 
action, with our march to this place, I remain 


Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 199 


Piet ER XXX LI 


Camp at Skenesborough, ‘fuly 14, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

HE confusion of the enemy on their retreat 

was very great, as they were neither sensible 
where they fled, nor by whom they were conducted, 
after Colonel Francis was killed, when they took to 
the mountains. 

Exclusive of 200 men that were killed, and near 
600 wounded, many of whom died in endeavouring 
to get off, the loss on our side has been very incon- 
siderable. After the action was over, a Colonel with 
the remains of his regiment, to the amount of 230, 
came and surrendered himself prisoner. 

The advantages of the ground was wholly on the 
side of the Americans, added to which the woods 
were so thick, that little or no order could be ob- 
served in advancing upon the enemy, it being to- 
tally impossible to form a regular line; personal 
courage and intrepidity was therefore to supply the 
place of military skill and discipline. The native 
bravery of our countrymen could not be more reso- 
lutely displayed than in this action, nor more ef- 
fectually exerted. It was a trial of the activity, 
strength and valor of every man that fought. At 
the commencement of the action the enemy were 
every where thrown into the greatest confusion, but 
being rallied by that brave officer, Colonel Francis, 
whose death, though an enemy, will ever be re- 


200 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


gretted by those who can feel for the loss of a gal- 
lant and brave man, the fight was renewed with the 
greatest degree of fierceness and obstinacy. Both 
parties engaged in separate detachments uncon- 
nected with each other, and the numbers of the 
enemy empowered them to front flank and rear. 
Some of these detachments, notwithstanding an in- 
feriority, most resolutely defended themselves, and 
the fate of the day was undecided till the arrival of 
the Germans, who, though late, came in for a share - 
of the glory, in dispersing the enemy in all quar- 
cers. 

Having given you the particulars of this engage- 
ment, permit me, as it is the first I ever was in, to 
make my remarks in the time of conflict. 

During the action, every apprehension and idea 
of danger forsakes the mind, which becomes more 
animated and determined the nearer the time of at- 
tack approaches. Every soldier feels inspired with 
an impatient ardor, as if he conceived the fate of 
the battle would be decided by the level of his mus- 
quet, or the point of his bayonet: but the conflict 
once over, the mind returns to its proper sense of 
feeling, and deeply must its sensibility be wounded, 
when the eye glances over the field of slaughter, 
where so many brave fellows, who a few hours be- 
fore were in high spirits and full of the vigor of life, 
are laid low in the dust, and the ear continually 
pierced with the deep sighs and groans of the 
wounded and dying. Even the joy rising in the 
bosom at the sight of surviving friends and brother 


THROUGH AMERICA 201 


officers, is saddened by the recollection of those who 
fell. Such, my dear friend, are the sensations of the 
mind, before and after a battle. 

That soldiers have many hair-breadth escapes, 
I am sure was never more fully verified, than in re- 
gard to Lord Balcarres, who commands the light in- 
fantry; he had near thirty balls shot through his 
jacket and trowsers, and yet only received a small 
graze on the hip. Others were equally as unfortu- 
nate, for upon thevery first attack of the light infan- 
try, Lieutenant Haggit received a ball in each of his 
eyes, and Lieutenant Douglas, of the 29th regiment, 
as he was carried off the field wounded, received a 
ball directly through his heart. These extraordi- 
nary events may in some measure be accounted for, 
as the least resistance of a musquet ball will give 
it a direction almost incredible: when the Sur- 
geon came to examine the wound of a poor Amer- 
ican, it appeared that the ball had entered on 
his left side, and having traversed between the 
skin and the back bone, came out on the oppo- 
site side. 

When General Fraser had posted the corps in an 
advantageous state of defence, and made some log 
works, as he expected we should be attacked, his 
next thoughts were, how to refresh the men after 
the fatigues of the day, provisions being unable to 
be forwarded, on account of the country’s being 
very hilly; a detachment was sent to shoot some 
bullocks that were running in the woods, these were 
distributed in ratios to the men, which they eat, 


202 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


dressed upon wood ashes, without either bread or 
salt. 

Just at this time chance supplied the officers with 
a very acceptable, though singular substitute for 
bread to their beef: an officer who was at Ticonder- 
oga, by way of a joke, sent his brother a great quan- 
tity of gingerbread that was taken at that place, 
which he now distributed among the officers, and 
as General Fraser shared the same as the men, he 
sent part of it to him as a present. 

We laid upon our arms all night, and the next 
morning sent back the prisoners to Ticonderoga, 
amounting to near 250. A very small detachment 
could be spared to guard them, as General Fraser 
expected the enemy would have reinforcements 
from the main body of their army, and oppose his 
crossing a wide creek, after we had passed Castle- 
town. He told the Colonel of the Americans, who 
had surrendered himself, to inform the rest of the 
prisoners, that if they attempted to escape, no 
quarter would be shewn them, and that those who 
might elude the guard, the Indians would be sent in 
pursuit of, and scalp them. 

Leaving the sick and wounded under the care of 
a subaltern’s guard, to protect them from the In- 
dians, or scouting parties of the enemy, the brigade 
marched to Castletown, where the men were re- 
cruited with some fresh provisions and a gill of rum; 
after this they proceeded on their march to the 
creek, to cross over which the pioneers were obliged 
to fell some trees; only one man could pass over at 


THROUGH AMERICA 203 


a time, so that it was near dark before the whole 
of the brigade had crossed, when we had seven 
miles to march to this place. 

Major Shrimpton, who I told you was wounded 
upon the hill, rather than remain with the wounded 
at Huberton, preferred marching with the brigade, 
and on crossing this creek, having only one hand to 
assist himself with, was on the point of slipping in, 
had not an officer who was behind him caught hold 
of his cloaths, just as he was falling. His wound was 
through his shoulder, and as he could walk, he said 
he would not remain to fall into the enemy’s hands, 

as it was universally thought the sick and wounded 
must. Very fortunately, however, for them, they 
met with no molestation, and three days after were 
conveyed in litters to Ticonderoga, as the road was 
impassable for any sort of carriage. 

After we had crossed the creek, General Fraser 
was perfectly easy in his mind concerning an attack, 
which he had been apprehensive of the whole day, 
and gave orders to make the best of our way to this 
encampment, which was through a road where 
every step we took was nearly up to the knees. 
After a march of near thirty miles, in an excessive 
woody and bad country, every moment in expecta- 
tion of being attacked, till we had crossed the creek, 
you must naturally suppose we underwent a most 
severe fatigue, both of mind and body. 

For my own part, I readily own to you, that the 
exertions of the day had so far wearied me, that 
drinking heartily of rum and water, I laid down in 


204 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


my bear-skin and blanket, and did not awake till 
twelve the next day. But that I may not fatigue 
you as much as IJ then felt myself, or make you fall 
asleep, I shall conclude with subscribing myself, 
Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 205 


febat to R XXXL. 


Camp at Skenesborough, Fuly 14, 1777 
MY DEAR FRIEND, 


FE are still encamped at this place, waiting 

the arrival of provisions, datteaux, and many 
other incumbrances, armies in general are but very 
seldom troubled with, and is a hindrance which that 
to the southward has not to encounter, for what- 
ever want of water carriage they meet with, the 
navy can always act in co-operation with them. 
I mention this, that you may not be surprized at 
our not making such rapid marches, and over-run- 
ning the country, as they in all probability will. 

The army are all assembled at this place, and in 
a few days the advanced corps march to Fort Ed- 
ward. You would like to learn the movements of 
the other part of the army, after we got possession 
of Ticonderoga; I was not with them, but you shall 
know what I have been able to collect. 

After a passage had been made, with great diffi- 
culty, but with much expedition, for the gun-boats 
and vessels to pass the bridge of communica- 
tion, between Ticonderoga and Fort Independence, 
(which had cost the Americans much labor and ex- 
pence in constructing) the main body of the army 
pursued the enemy by South Bay, within three 
miles of this place, where they were posted in a 
stockaded fort, with their armed gallies. The first 
brigade was disembarked with an intention of cut- 


206 — INTERIOR TRAVELS 


ting off the enemy’s retreat, but their hasty flight 
rendered that manceuvre useless. The gun-boats 
and frigates pursued the armed vessels, and when 
the enemy arrived at the falls of this place, they 
made a defence for some time, after which. they 
blew up three of their vessels, and the other two 
struck. 

On the enemy’s retreat they set fire to the fort, 
dwelling-house, saw-mill, iron-works, and all the 
building on this plantation, destroyed the datteaux 
and retired to Fort Edward. 

An officer who came up at the time of the confla- 
gration, assured me he never saw so tremendous a 
sight; for exclusive of the shipping, building, &c. 
the trees all up the side of the hanging rock, had 
caught fire, as well as at the top of a very lofty hill. 
The element appeared to threaten universal de- 
struction. 

The gth regiment was sent to take post at Fort 
Ann, to observe the motion of the enemy, as well as 
to dislodge them: but intelligence having been re- 
ceived that they had been greatly reinforced, Colo- 
nel Hill sent word to General Burgoyne, that he 
should not retire with his regiment but maintain his 
ground; the other two regiments of the brigade, 
with two pieces of artillery, were ordered to support. 
them, with General Phillips, who took the com- 
mand; but a violent storm of rain, which lasted the 
whole day, prevented their getting to their relief so 
soon as was intended, which gave the gth regiment 
an opportunity of distinguishing themselves, in a 


THROUGH AMERICA 207 


most gallant and signal manner, by repulsing an at- 
tack of six times their number, and the enemy not 
being able to force them in front, endeavored to 
turn their flank, which from their great superiority 
was much to be feared; when Colonel Hill thought 
it necessary to change his position in the very height 
of the action, which was executed with great steadi- 
ness and bravery. In this manner the fight was car- 
ried on for a considerable length of time, the British 
troops maintaining their ground, and the enemy 
gradually retiring, were at last totally repulsed, and 
fled to Fort Edward, setting fire to Fort Ann, but 
left a saw-mill and block-house standing, which 
was immediately taken possession of by a party of 
the gth regiment. 

After we had abandoned this block-house and 
saw mills, and proceeded to Fort Edward, the en- 
emy returned and set fire to it; and as you desire 
me to send you a few drawings of such things as I 
might think best worth taking a sketch of, I have 
sent a representation of the block-house and saw 
mill, as being a very romantic view. 

The gth regiment have acquired great honor in 
this action; though it lasted so long, and was fought 
under such disadvantages, they have sustained 
very little loss. Captain Montgomery (brother-in- 
law to Lord Townshend) a very gallant officer, was 
wounded early in the action, and taken prisoner, 
with the Surgeon, as he was dressing his wound, 
which happened as the regiment was changing its” 
position. 


208 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


During this action, that pleasant Hibernian ac- 
quaintance of ours, M , of the same regiment, 
was slightly wounded, and conveyed into the house 
with the rest of the wounded, which had been at- 
tacked, as part of the regiment had thrown them- 
selves into it, for better defence during the action. 
Our friend M——., in endeavoring to comfort his 
fellow-sufferers, in a blunt manner, exclaimed, “By 
“heavens, my good lads, you need not think so 
“‘much of being wounded, for by Jasus God there’s 
“a bullet in the beam.” 

As to the other part of the army, some remained 
behind at Ticonderoga, some employed in bringing 
up the datteaux, &c. but the whole are now assem- 
bled, and collected at this place. 

From the various accounts we have been able to 
collect of the Americans, relative to their abandon-. 
ing Ticonderoga, it seemed that upon our gaining 
possession of Sugar-Hill, a post which they were 
certainly very negligent and imprudent in not se- 
curing, they were greatly dismayed, and seeing the 
preparations we were making to open a battery, 
which I before observed had the command of all 
their works, they called a council of their principal 
officers, when it was pointed out to them by General 
Sinclair, who commanded the garrison, that their 
force was very deficient in numbers to man their 
works, and that it was impossible to make any 
effectual defence, observing to them that places, 
however strong, without a sufficient number of 
troops, must surrender, and that in all probability 








THROUGH AMERICA 209, 


the place would be surrounded in less than four and 
twenty hours. In this situation of affairs, the Gen- 
eral saw the ruin of his army, and it was his opinion 
that the fort ought to be abandoned to save the 
troops; that the baggage and artillery stores were 
to be sent to Skenesborough by water, and the 
troops were to march by land, by the way of Huber- 
ton, to that place. These proposals being fully ap- 
proved of by the council, was the reason of their 
evacuating it that night, and hazarding the under- 
taking. 

General Burgoyne foreseeing the great difficulties 
of conveying even provisions, setting apart bag- 
gage, has issued out the following orders: 

“Tt is observed, that the injunction given before 
“the army took the field, relative to the baggage of 
“officers, has not been complied with, and that the 
“regiments in general are incumbered with much 
“more baggage than they can possibly be supplied 
“with means of conveying, when they quit the 
“lake and rivers: warning is therefore given again 
“to the officers, to convey by the datteaux which 
“will soon return to Ticonderoga, the baggage that 
“is not indispensibly necessary to them, or upon 
“the first sudden movement, it must inevitably be 
“left on the ground. Such gentlemen as served in 
“America last war may remember, that the officers 
“took up with soldiers tents, and often confined 
“their baggage to a knapsack, for months to- 
gether: 

Fortunately for me, my horse has come safe 


ae INTERIOR TRAVELS 


round the lakes, which will enable me to keep the 
little baggage I brought with me. 

The Indians, animated with our success, have 
acquired more confidence and courage, as great 
numbers have joiried the army, and are daily con- 
tinuing so to do. 

Unexpected orders being just given out, that 
Captain Gardner departs to-morrow for England, 
and having several more letters to write, I am 


obliged to leave you. Adieu. 
Yours, &c. 





THROUGH AMERICA 211 


Peeler Rox X XV 


Camp at Skenesborough, Fuly 17, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


OU will no doubt be surprized, that in my ac- 

count of the proceedings of the army, every 
circumstance of which seems to add glory and con- 
quest to the British arms, that I never made men- 
tion of the savages, in our pursuit of the enemy 
from Ticonderoga; they could not, in any respect 
whatever, be drawn away from the plunder of that 
place, and I am afraid this is not the only instance 
in which the General has found their assistance 
little more than a name. 

Those who have the management and conduct of 
them are, from interested motives, obliged to in- 
dulge them in all their caprices and humors, and, 
like spoiled children, are more unreasonable and 
importunate upon every new indulgence granted 
them: but there is no remedy; were they left to 
themselves, they would be guilty of enormities too 
horrid to think of, for guilty and innocent, women 
and infants, would be their common prey. 

This is too much the case of the lower Canadian 
Indians, which are the only ones who have joined 
our army; but we understand, within two days 
march, the Outawas, and some remoter nations, are 
on the road to join us, more brave, and more tract- 
able, who profess war, and not pillage. They are 
under the direction of a Monsieur St. Luc, and one 


202 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Langdale, both of whom were great partizans of the 
French last war; the latter was the person who 
planned and executed, with the nations he is now 
escorting, the defeat of General Braddock. 

If these Indians correspond with the character 
given of them, some good may be derived from 
their assistance; little is to be expected from those 
with the army at present, but plundering. 

As I hinted to you in a former letter, the General’s 
manifesto has not had the desired effect, as intelli- 
gence is brought in that the committees are using 
their utmost endeavors to counteract it, by watch- | 
ing and imprisoning all persons they suspect, com- 
pelling the people to take arms, to drive their cattle 
and burn their corn, under the penalty of immedi- 
ate death; and, sorry am I to add, that numbers of 
well-disposed ‘persons to the success of our arms, 
have already undergone that fate! History, I think, 
cannot furnish an instance, where a war was ever 
carried on with so much rancor, not only with those 
who seem inclined to oppose them, but equally to 
those who would remain neuter. 

Numbers have joined the army since we have 
penetrated into this place, professing themselves 
loyalists, wishing to serve, some to the end of the 
war, some only the campaign, a third part of the 
number have arms, and till arms arrive for the re- 
mainder, they are employed in clearing the roads 
and repairing the bridges, in which the Americans 
are very expert. 

We are obliged to wait some time in our present 


THROUGH AMERICA 213 


position, till the roads are cleared of the trees which 
the Americans felled after their retreat. You would 
think it almost impossible, but every ten or twelve 
yards great trees are laid across the road, exclusive 
of smaller ones, especially when it is considered 
what a hasty retreat they made of it. Repairing 
the bridges is a work of some labor, added to which, 
a stock of provisions must be brought up previous 
to our marching to Fort Edward. We lie under 
many disadvantages in prosecuting this war, from 
the impediments I have stated, and we cannot fol- 
low this great military maxim, ‘“‘in good success 
“push the advantage as far as you can.” 

While this part of the army is thus employed, the 
remainder are conveying the gun-boats, batteaux 
and provision vessels into Lake George, to scour 
that lake, and secure the future route of our maga- 
zines; when that force is ready to move down the 
lake, the army will proceed to possess Fort Edward, 
by which means the enemy, if they do not abandon 
Fort George, must inevitably be caught, as they 
will be enclosed by the two armies. During these 
movements General Riedesel is to make a diversion 
into Connecticut, and reconnoitre the country, and 
by that feint to draw the attention of the Ameri- 
cans to almost every quarter. 

Our successes, no doubt, must have operated 
strongly on the minds of the enemy, and they will 
be equally as anxious to adopt measures for stop- 
ping the progress of our army, as to prevent the im- 
minent danger the northern colonies are exposed to. 


214 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


On Sunday last a thanksgiving sermon was 
preached, for the success of our arms, after which 
there was a feu de joie fired by the whole army, 
with artillery and small arms; the sermon was 
preached by the clergyman whom I have made men- 
tion of, and an exceeding good one it was, for a par- 
ish church, but not in the least applicable to the 
occasion. 

By the best intelligence that can be gained, we are 
informed, that General Schuyler is at Fort Edward, 
collecting the militia from the adjacent countries, 
which, with the remains of their broken army, is 
to form a sufficient body for making a stand at 
this place. Their shattered army have suffered in- 
credible hardships from the want of provisions, and 
the necessaries to cover them, from the incessant 
rains that have fell of late, as they were compelled 
to make a week’s circuit through the woods, 
before they could reach Fort Edward, in order to 
avoid the various strong detachments that we had 
in different parts, on the Connecticut side. 

I omitted to mention to you, that your old friend 
Captain H——, was wounded at the battle of 
Huberton, early in the action, when the grenadiers 
formed to support the light infantry. I could not 
pass by him as he lay under a tree, where he had 
scrambled upon his hands and knees, to protect him 
from the scattering shot, without going up to see 
what assistance could be afforded him, and learn if 
he was severely wounded. You who know his ready 
turn for wit, will not be surprized to hear, though in 





THROUGH AMERICA  —_—_ ars 


extreme agony, that with an arch look, and clap- 
ping his hand behind him, he told me, if I wanted 
to be satisfied, I must ask that, as the ball had en- 
tered at his hip, and passed through a certain part 
adjoining: he is now at Ticonderoga, and, from the 
last account, is recovering fast. 

We march to-morrow, and on our arrival at Fort 
Edward you may depend upon hearing from, 


Yours, &c. 


216 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LET TER: XR 


Camp at Fort Edward, August 6, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


E are arrived at this place, in which it was 
thought the enemy would have made a 
stand, but upon intelligence of our advancing, they 
precipitately abandoned it, as they did the garrison 
of Ticonderoga. Very fortunately for the garrison 
of Fort George, they had passed this place about 
an hour before our arrival; had they been that 
much later, they must have been inevitably cut off. 
The country between our late encampment at 
Skenesborough and this place, was a continuation 
of woods and creeks, interspersed with deep mo- 
rasses; and to add to these natural impediments, 
the enemy had very industriously augmented them, 
by felling immense trees, and various other modes, 
that it was with the utmost pains and fatigue we 
could work our way through them. Exclusive of 
these, the watery grounds and marshes were so nu- 
merous, that we were under the necessity of con- 
structing no less than forty bridges to pass them, 
and over one morass there was a bridge of near two 
miles in length. 

In our march through this wilderness, as it may 
with propriety be called, we met with very little 
difficulty from the Americans. They sometimes, 
when our people were removing the obstructions we 
had continually to encounter, would attack them, 


THROUGH AMERICA a17 


but as they were only straggling parties, they were 
easily repulsed. The distance from our late encamp- 
ment to this place was small, but the many obsta- 
cles the enemy had thrown in our way, made it a 
matter of astonishment, considering the laborious 
march we had undergone, that we should arrive so 
soon. 

On our way, we marched across the Pine-plains, 
which derive their name from an extensive space of 
level country, on which grows nothing but very 
lofty pine-trees. On these plains we frequently met 
with the enemy’s encampment, and about the cen- 
ter of them, upon some rising ground, there were 
exceeding strong works, defended by an immense 
abbatis, where it was thought they would wait our 
approach. But this position was not suited to the 
Americans, for if their lines were forced, their rear 
was an open extent of country. It is a general ob- 
servation, that they never make a stand but upon 
an eminence, almost inaccessible, and a wood to 
cover their retreat. 

At this encampment the expected Indians te 
joined us; they seem to possess more bravery, and 
much more humanity, than those who accompa- 
nied us across Lake Champlain, as the following 
little anecdote will convince you: 

A few days since several of them fell in with a 
scouting party of the Americans, and after a little 
skirmish, the enemy fled to their datteaux, and 
rowed across the river. The Indians fired at, but 
could not reach them, and being greatly exasper- 


218 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


ated at their making their escape, perceiving a hog- 
trough, they put their fire-arms into it, stripped 
and swam across the river, pushing the hog-trough 
before them. . The Indians gained the shore lower 
down than the Americans, surprized and took them 
prisoners, and brought them back in the batteaux 
across the river. 

One of the Americans, a very brave fellow, was 
wounded in the skirmish, and unable to walk, when 
the Indians brought him upon their backs for near 
three miles, with as much care and attention as if 
he had been one of their own people. 

As the Indians approached the camp, we were all 
apprized of their bringing in some prisoners, by 
their setting up the war whoop; but every one was 
astonished, and as equally pleased at their human- 
ity, in beholding an Indian bringing on his back the 
chief of the party. He was taken before General 
Fraser, but would give no answer to any question, 
and behaved in the most undaunted manner. The 
General imagining that by shewing him attention 
he might gain some information from him, ordered 
him some refreshment, and when the Surgeon had 
examined his wound, told him he must immediately 
undergo an amputation, which being performed, he 
was requested to keep himself still and quiet, or a 
locked jaw would inevitably ensue; to this he re- 
plied with great firmness, ‘‘then I shall have the 
“pleasure of dying in a good cause, that of gaining 
“independence to the American Colonies.”’ I men- 
tion this circumstance, to shew how chearfully © 


Ee 


THROUGH AMERICA 219 


‘some of them will sacrifice their lives in pursuit of 


this favorite idol. Such was the man’s restless dis- 
position, that he actually died the next morning. 
This death was generally regretted, as one among 
the very few who act from principle; had he sur- 
vived, a different statement of the case might have 
rendered him as strenuous a loyalist, as great a 
hero, as he was a stubborn rebel. 

To those who have been averse to our employing 
Indians, a melancholy instance was lately afforded, 
that will afresh sharpen their arguments against 
the maxim, and as the matter will certainly be 
greatly exaggerated, when the accounts of it arrive 
in England, I shall relate to you the circumstance, 
as it really happened, and clearly point out the mis- 
fortune not to be the effect of their natural barbar- 
ity, but a disputed point of war. 

_A young lady, whose parents being well affected 
to Government, had abandoned their habitation to 
avoid the ill treatment of the Americans, and left 
their child alone in it, who, upon the approach of 
our army, was determined to leave her father’s 


house and join it, as a young man, to whom she was 


on the point of being married, was an officer in the 
provincial troops. Some Indians, who were out 
upon a scout, by chance met with her in the woods; 
they at first treated her with every mark of civility 
they are capable of, and were conducting her into 
camp; when within a mile of it, a dispute arose be- 
tween the two Indians, whose prisoner she was, and 
words growing very high, one of them, who was 


220 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


fearful of losing the reward for bringing her safe into 
camp, most inhumanly struck his tomahawk into 
her skull, and she instantly expired. 

The situation of the General, whose humanity 
was much shocked at such an instance of barbarity, 
was very distressing and critical; for however 1n- 
clined he might be to punish the offender, still it 
was hazarding the revenge of the Indians, whose 
friendship he had to court, rather than to seek 
their enmity. } 

The Chief of the tribe to which the Indian be- 
longed, readily consented to his being delivered up 
to the General, to act with him as he thought 
proper; but at the same time said, it was the rules 
of their war, that if two of them at the same in- 
stant seized a prisoner, and seemed to have an equal 
claim, in case any dispute arose between them, 
they soon decided the contest, for the unhappy 
cause was sure to become a victim to their conten- 
tion. 

Thus fell a poor unfortunate young lady, whose 
death must be universally lamented. I am afraid 
you will accuse me of great apathy, and conclude 
the scenes of war to have hardened my feelings, 
when I say, that this circumstance, put in competi- 
tion with all the horrors attendant on this unfortu- 
nate contest, and which, in all probability, are likely 
to increase hourly, is but of little moment. 

The General shewed great resentment to the In- 
dians upon this occasion, and laid restraints upon 
their dispositions to commit other enormities. He 





THROUGH AMERICA 225 


was the more exasperated, as they were Indians of 
the remoter tribes who had been guilty of this of- 
fence, and whom he had been taught to look upon 
as more warlike. I believe, however, he has found 
equal depravity of principle reigns throughout the 
whole of them, and the only pre-eminence of the 
remoter tribes consists in their ferocity. 

From this time there was an apparent change in 
their tempers; their ill humor and mutinous disposi- 
tion strongly manifested itself, when they found 
the plunder of the country was controuled; their 
interpreters, who had a douceur in the rapacity, be- 
ing likewise debarred from those emoluments, were 
profligate enough to promote dissention, desertion 
and revolt. 

In this instance, however, Monsieur St. Luc is to 
be acquitted of these factions, though I believe he 
was but too sensible of their pining after the accus- 
tomed horrors, and that they were become as 1m- 
patient of his controul as of all other: however, thro’ 
the pride and interest of authority, and at the same 
time the affectionate love he bore to his old assoct- 
ates, he was induced to cover the real cause under 
frivolous pretences of complaint. 

On the 4th instant, at the pressing instance of the 
above gentleman, a council was called, when, to the 
General’s great astonishment, those nations he had 
the direction of, declared their intention of return- 
ing home, at the same time demanding the General 
to concur with and assist them. This event was ex- 
tremely embarrassing, as it was giving up part of 


222 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the force which had been obtained at a great ex- 
pence to Government, and from whose assistance 
so much was looked for: on the other hand, if a cor- 
dial reconciliation was made with them, it must be 
by an indulgence in all their excesses of blood and 
rapine. Nevertheless the General was to give an im- 
mediate answer; he firmly refused their proposal, 
insisted upon their adherence to the restraints that 
had been established, and at the same time, in a 
temperate manner, represented to them their ties of 
faith, of generosity and honor, adding many other 
persuasive arguments, to encourage them in con- 
tinuing their services. 

This answer seemed to have some weight with 
them, as many of the tribes nearest home only 
begged, that some part of them might be permitted 
to return to their harvest, which was granted. Some 
of the remote tribes seemed to retract from their 
proposal, professing great zeal for the service. 

Notwithstanding this, to the astonishment of the 
General, and every one belonging to the army, the 
desertion took place the next day, when they went 
away by scores, loaded with such plunder as they 
had collected, and have continued to do so daily, till 
scarce one of those that Joined us at Skenesborough 
is left. 

It is with great pleasure I acquaint you that 
Major Ackland is so far recovered, as to assume his 
command of the grenadiers; he arrived at the camp 
yesterday, accompanied by the amiable Lady Har- 
riet, who, in the opening of the campaign, was re- 





THROUGH AMERICA 223 


strained, by the positive injunction of her husband, 
from sharing the fatigue and hazard that was 
expected before Ticonderoga. But she no sooner 
heard that the Major was wounded, than she 
crossed Lake Champlain to join him, determined to 
follow his fortunes the remainder of the campaign. 

That your partner in the connubial state, should 
you be induced to change your situation, may prove 
as affectionate, and evince as tender an anxiety for 
your welfare, as Lady Harriet, on all occasions 
shews for that of the Major, is the ardent wish of 

Yours, &c. 


224 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LE ETB ROX Xe 


Camp at Fort Edward, Aug. 8, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

FE still remain at this encampment, till pro- 

visions are brought up to enable us to move 
forward, and notwithstanding these delays in our 
convoys and stores, it will certainly be thought we 
remain too long for an army whose business is to 
act offensively, and whose first motion, according to 
the maxims of war, should contribute, as soon as 
possible, to the execution of the intended expedi- 
tion. 

I know it will be the general observation in Eng- 
land, that we ought, after we had penetrated thus 
far, to have made our way to Albany by rapid 
marches, it being no more than fifty miles distant 
from this place. In this instance it is to be consid- 
ered, how the troops are to pass two great rivers, 
the Hudson and the Mohawk, without datteaux; to 
form a bridge, or water-raft, to convey large bodies 
at once, even admitting the contrivance of a bridge 
of rafts to pass the Hudson, and trust to chance for 
the passage of the Mohawk, or in case of a disap- 
pointment, recourse to be had to the fords at 
Schenectady, which are fifteen miles from the mouth 
of the river, and are fordable, except after heavy 
rains: removing all these impediments, for a rapid 
march the soldier must of course be exempted from 
all personal incumbrances, and represented as just 





THROUGH AMERICA 226 


marching from a parade in England, for nothing 
can be more repugnant to the ideas of a rapid 
march, than the load a soldier generally carries dur- 
ing a campaign, consisting of a knapsack, a blanket, 
a haversack that contains his provision, a canteen 
for water, a hatchet, and a proportion of the equi- 
page belonging to his tent; these articles, (and for 
such a march there cannot be less than four days 
provision) added to his accoutrements, arms, and 
sixty rounds of ammunition, make an enormous 
bulk, weighing about sixty pounds. As the Ger- 
mans must be included in this rapid march, let me 
point out the incumbrance they are loaded with, 
exclusive of what I have already described, espe- 
cially their grenadiers, who have, in addition, a cap 
with a very heavy brass front, a sword of an enor- 
mous size, a canteen that cannot hold less than a 
gallon, and their coats very long skirted. Picture 
to yourself a man in this situation, and how ex- 
tremely well calculated he is for a rapid march. 

It may be urged, that the men might be relieved 
from a considerable part of this burthen, and that 
they might march free from knapsacks and camp 
equipage, being divested of which, they might have 
carried more provision. Admitting this it would not 
remedy the evil, it being with great difficulty you 
can prevail on a common soldier to husband his 
provision, in any exigency whatever. Even in a set- 
tled camp, a young soldier has very short fare on 
the fourth day after he receives his provision; and 
on a march, in bad weather and bad roads, when > 


226 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the weary foot slips back at every step, and a curse 
is provoked by the enormous weight that retards 
him, it must be a very patient veteran, who has ex- 
perienced much scarcity and hunger, that is not 
tempted to throw the whole contents of his haver- 
sack into the mire, instances of which I saw on sev- 
eral of our marches. When they thought they 
should get fresh provision at the next encampment, 
and that only when they were loaded with four 
days provision: the soldiers reason in this manner: 
the load is a grievous incumbrance — want but a 
little way off —and I have often heard them ex- 
claim, “Damn the provisions, we shall get more at. 
“the next encampment; the General won’t let his 
“soldiers starve.” 

Consistent with the idea of rapidity, it is neces- 
sary to carry forward more provision than for bare 
sustenance during the march, or how were the men 
to subsist when they arrived at Albany, where the 
Americans will certainly make a stand? but even 
supposing they should not, they will of course drive 
off all the cattle, and destroy the corn and corn- 
mills; this can only be effected by carts, which could 
not keep pace with the army, there being only one 
road from Albany for wheel-carriage, and in many ~ 
places there are deep and wide gullies, where the 
bridges are broken, and must necessarily be re- 
paired. This road is bounded on one side by the 
river, and on the other by perpendicular ascents, 
covered with wood, where the enemy might not only 
greatly annoy, but where, in one night, they could 





THROUGH AMERICA 227 


throw impediments in our way, that would take 
nearly the whole of the next day to remove, there- 
fore every idea of conveying more provision than 
the men could carry on their backs must cease, as 
the time and labor in removing these obstructions, 
and making new roads for the carts to pass, before 
they could reach the army, would inevitably be the 
cause of a famine, or the army must retreat. All 
notion of artillery is totally laid aside, as in the 
present state of the roads, not the smallest ammu- 
nition tumbril could be carried with the army. 

There are many who may be led away with the 
ideas of a rapid march, and say that artillery is use- 
less; but they can only form their opinion from the 
warmth of their wishes. It is impossible to judge, 
or form an opinion, unless upon the spot, for, speak- 
ing within compass, there are not less than a dozen 
strong passes, setting aside the passage of the Mo- 
hawk; where, if strengthened-with abbatis, which 
the Americans are expert in making, as they never 
encamped a single night without throwing up 
works of this sort in a few hours, five hundred of 
their militia would stop, for a time, ten times their 
number of the bravest troops in the world, who had 
not artillery to assist them. 

Having stated these objections to the principles 
and practicability of a rapid march, you cannot but 
be fully convinced how necessary it 1s to advance 
with a sufficient supply of stores, both of artillery 
and provisions; and in order to gain a great supply 

of the latter, as well as to provide some teams and 


2.28 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


oxen, a detachment is going to Bennington, to sur- 
prize a magazine of the enemy’s, which will enable 
the army to proceed without delay, and its Com- 
mander to prosecute the object of his expedition. 

Certainly the situation of the General is ex- 
tremely trying, however zealously he is inclined, 
and anxious in compleating the object of his com- 
mand. For one hour that he can devote in contem- 
plating how to fight his army, he must allot twenty 
to contrive how to feed it! This inconvenience the 
enemy have not to encounter, as their army is speed- 
ily and regularly supplied with every thing, by 
means of their navigable rivers, which communi- 
cate from province to province. An American Gen- 
eral has only to teach his men to fight, (that’s a 
pretty difficult task you'll say) he is never at a loss 
how to feed them. 

It is, from the various circumstances I have 
stated, greatly to be wished, that the minds of some 
men were more open to conviction, to form their 
opinions with the greater liberality of sentiment. 

A few days since I went from this to Fort George, 
relative to some artillery stores, at which place | 
had an opportunity of seeing Lake George, which, 
altho’ considerably smaller than Lake Champlain, 
in my opinion exceeds it far in point of beauty and 
diversity of scene. 

About the center of the lake there are two islands, 
on the largest of which, called Diamond Island, are 
encamped two companies of the 47th regiment, un- 
der the command of Captain Aubrey, for the pur- 





. — = ts or, eae a a 





THROUGH AMERICA 229 


pose of forwarding the provisions across the lake. 
This island, as well as the one that is close to it, 
formerly was so over-run with rattle-snakes, that 
persons when they passed the lake seldom or ever 
ventured on them. A datteaux in sailing up it, over- 
set near Diamond Island, and among other things 
it contained several hogs, which swam to the shore, 
as did the Canadians who were rowing it up: the 
latter, in apprehension of the rattle-snakes, climbed 
up trees for the night, and the next morning ob- 
serving a batteaux, they hailed the people in it, who 
took them in and conveyed them to Fort George. 

Some time after the man who owned the hogs, 
being unwilling to lose them, returned down the 
lake, and with some comrades ventured a search. 
After traversing the island a considerable time, they 
at last found them, but so prodigiously fat, that 
they could scarcely move, and in their search only 
met with one rattle-snake, which greatly surprized 
them, as the island was reported to abound. Their 
wonder, however, was not of long duration, for be- 
ing short of provisions, they killed one of the hogs, 
the stomach of which was filled with rattle-snakes, 
and from this circumstance it was natural to con- 
clude the hogs had devoured them since their 
landing. 3 

This was related to me by a person on whose ve- 
racity I can depend, and several of the inhabitants 
have informed me since, that if a hog happens to 
meet a rattle-snake, it will immediately attack and 
devour it. 


230 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


As I am on the subject of rattle-snakes, and this 
country greatly abounding with them, permit me to 
describe to you those reptiles, which I am the bet- 
ter enabled to do, having seen one killed yesterday. 
It was about a yard long, and about three inches in 
circumference, in its thickest part; it had seven rat- 
tles at the end of its tail, and according to the num- 
ber of these rattles, its age is ascertained, every 
year producing an additional one, fixed by a small 
ligament within the other, and being hollow, the 
quick motion of the tail occasions a noise so pecul- 
iar to itself, that I cannot mention any thing sim- 
ilar to it. The scales of these rattle-snakes are 
of variegated colors, and extremely beautiful, the 
head is small, with a very quick and piercing eye; 
their flesh, notwithstanding the venom they are 
possessed of, is very delicious, far superior to that 
of an eel, and produces a very rich soup. 

The bite of these reptiles is certain death, unless 
proper remedies are applied. Providence has been 
so attentive to our preservation (a pretty remark 
you'll say this, to come from‘a soldier, who is con- 
tributing daily his assistance to the destroying and 
maiming hundreds), that near to where these rep- 
tiles resort, there grows a plant, with a large broad 
leaf, called p/aintain, which being bruised and ap- 
plied to the wound, is a sure antidote to the ill ef- 
fects of its venom. The virtues of this plant were 
discovered by a negro in Virginia, for which he ob- 
tained his liberty and a pension for life. | 

This discovery, like many others equally surpriz- 


' THROUGH AMERICA 231 


ing, was the mere effect of chance. This poor negro 
having been bit by one of these snakes, in the leg, it 
swelled in an instant to such a degree, that he was 
unable to walk; lying down on the grass in great an- 
guish, he gathered some of this plant, and chewing 
it, applied it to the wound, imagining it would cool 
the inflammation; this giving him instant relief, he 
renewed the application several times, and the 
swelling abated, so as to enable him to walk home 
to his master’s plantation; after repeating the same 
for the space of two or three days, he was perfectly 
recovered. 

But however surrounded I may be with venom- 
ous reptiles, the clank of arms, and horrors of war, 
rest assured that neither distance, time, nor place, 
can erase the idea of friendship, nor the sweet 
thoughts of what is left behind ever be lessened in 
the breast of 7 
Yours, &c. 


232 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LETTER XXX Vas 


Camp at Batten Kill, August 24, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 
T is with the utmost concern I tell you the ex- 
pedition to Bennington has failed, and great 
numbers made prisoners: This no doubt will be a- 
matter of great exultation to the Americans, and 
divest them of those fears they had entertained of 
the German troops, especially as they have been 
defeated by a set of raw militia. In this enterprize 
the General left nothing for chance to do, but 
planned every thing his wisdom could suggest to 
effect it, and the project would have answered 
many desirable ends, had the execution of it 
proved as fortunate as the plan was judicious. 
In some former letter I laid much stress against 
a rapid movement, and endeavored to point out to 
you the total impracticability of it. I need only add 
another argument to impress you fully with the 
same sentiments. The army could no more proceed 
without hospital stores, than it could without pro- 
visions, for depend upon it, the General who carries 
troops into fire, without precautions to alleviate 
the certain consequences, is sure to alienate their 
affections, and damp their ardor; it is exacting 
more than human spirit is able to sustain. It is not 
necessary for you to be accustomed to fields of bat- 
tle, to be convinced of truth; let your mind only 
rest fora moment on the objects that present them- 


THROUGH AMERICA 233 


selves after an action, and then reflect, there is not 
a mattrass for broken bones, nor a cordial for agony 
and faintness. Those whose ideas are continually 
marching with a much greater rapidity than ever 
an army did, suppose no opposition, and no suffer- 
ing from wounds. The many helpless and in ago- 
nies, who must be cruelly abandoned (supposing the 
rest could be prevailed on to abandon those whose 
case might the next day be their own) make no con- 
sideration with men of precipitate imagination. I 
shall close this subject with observing, that in my 
opinion, a General is responsible to God and his 
country for the armies he conducts, and that he 
cannot easily overlook these objects; however anx- 
ious he may be, he must be patient till a few hun- 
dred beds, and a proper proportion of medicine and 
chirurgical materials, can be brought up for troops 
that are to fight as well as march. 

In order to take advantage of the success that 
was expected from the expedition to Bennington, 
the army moved to the east side of Hudson’s river, 
and on the 14th, a bridge of rafts was constructed, 
over which the advanced corps passed, and en- 
camped on the heights at Saratoga. 

Whatever was the cause of the failure of the ex- 
pedition to Bennington, of which many appear, the 
principal one seems to have been the delay of the 
reinforcement that was sent to support the first de- 
tatchment, which was from eight o’clock in the 
morning to four o’clock in the afternoon of next 
day, marching two and twenty miles; the advanced 


234 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


corps, not only at the time the Germans were sent, 
but at the failure of it, felt themselves much hurt, 
thinking it was a duty they ought to have been em- 
ployed on, and it was not till after its failure, that 
impression was erased from their minds, by being 
informed they were reserved for more important 
services; for in case that expedition had proved suc- 
cessful, the advanced corps were to have pushed 
forward to the heights of Still-Water, and in- 
trenched there till the army and provisions could 
have joined; by this means the whole country on 
the west side of the river to the banks of the Mo- 
hawk, would have been in our possession. 

A few days after we had encamped at the heights 
of Saratoga, the bridge of rafts was carried away by 
the torrents occasioned by the late heavy fall of 
rain, and our communication cut off from the main 
body. If the enemy after the late successes, in our 
present situation, had been induced to attack us, 
the General would have found himself in a very bad 
position, and unable to take a better, as the ad- 
vanced corps could not besupported by the line; the 
only means of retreat would have been under the 
cover of our artillery, therefore our corps were re- 
called, after the action at Bennington, and were 
obliged to cross the river in boats and scowls, and 
take up our old encampment at this place. 

The Mohawk nation, which are called Sir Wil- 
_ liam Johnson’s Indians, as having their village near 
his plantation, and who, in his life-time, was con- 
tinually amongst them, were driven from their vil- 


THROUGH AMERICA 235 


lage by the Americans, and have joined our army: 
they have come with their sguaws, children, cattle, 
horses and sheep, and are encamped at the creek 
from whence this place takes its name; when the 
army cross the river, the sguaws and children are to 
go to Canada, and the men to remain. 

Upon their arrival I visited them at their en- 
campment, and had an opportunity of observing 
the mode they adopt in training up their children. 
They are in a manner amphibious; there were sev- 
eral of the men bathing in the creek; and a number 
of little children, the eldest could not be more than 
six years old, and these little creatures had got into 
the middle of the creek upon planks, which they 
paddled along, sometimes sitting, then standing on 
them, and if they overbalance the plank, and slip 
off with a dexterity almost incredible, they get on it 
again; as to diving, they will keep a considerable 
time under water, nearly two or three minutes. 

The mode of confining their young infants, is by 
binding them flat on their backs to a board, and as 
they are swaddled up to their head, it makes them 
resemble living mummies; this method of binding 
their young, I am led to imagine, is the cause of 
that perfect symmetry among the men. A de- 
formed Indian is rare to be met with; the women 
would be equally as perfect, but as they grow up, 
they acquire a habit, it being deemed an ornament, 
of so turning in the feet, that their toes almost 
meet; the sguaws, after they have suckled their in- 
fants, if they fall asleep, lay them on the ground, if 


236 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


not they hang the board they are swaddled to on 
the branch of a tree, and swing them till they do; 
upon a march, they tie these boards, with their in- 
fants, on their backs. 

As the river is subject to continual torrents 
and increase of water, a bridge of boats is now con- 
structing, to preserve a communication with both 
sides of the river, which when compleated, the ad- 
vanced corps are to pass over, and encamp at Sara- 
toga. 

I am interrupted by the cries of some Indians 
who are setting up the war whoop, on their bringing 
in prisoners. 

When they arrive, as they imagine, in hearing of 
the camp, they set up the war whoop, as many times 
as they have number of prisoners. It is difficult to 
describe it to you, and the best idea that I can con- 
vey is, that it consists in the sound of whoo, whoo, 
whoop! which is continued till the breath is almost 
exhausted, and then broke off with a sudden eleva- 
tion of voice; some of them modulate it into notes, 
by placing the hand before the mouth, but both are 
heard at a great distance. 

Whenever they scalp, they seize the head of the 
disabled or dead enemy, and placing one of their 
feet on the neck, twist their left hand in the hair, by 
which means they extend the skin that covers the 
top of the head, and with the other hand draw their 
scalping knife from their breast, which is always 
kept in good order, for this cruel purpose, a few dex- 
trous strokes of which takes off the part that is 


THROUGH AMERICA | 237 


termed the scalp; they are so exceedingly expedi- 
tious in doing this, that it scarcely exceeds a minute. 
If the hair is short, and they have no purchase with 
their hand, they stoop, and with their teeth strip it 
off; when they have performed this part of their 
‘martial virtue, as soon as time permits, they tie 
with bark or deer’s sinews their speaking trophies 
of blood in a small hoop, to preserve it from putre- 
faction, painting part of the scalp and the hoop 
all round with red. These they preserve as monu- 
ments of their prowess, and at the same time as 
proofs of the vengeance they have inflicted on their 
enemies. 

At one of the Indian encampments, I saw several 
scalps hanging upon poles, in front of their wig- 
wams; one of them had remarkably fine long hair 
hanging to it. An officer that was with me wanted 
to purchase it, at which the Indian seemed highly 
offended, nor would he part with this barbarous 
trophy, although he was offered so strong a tempta- 
tion as a bottle of rum. 

The appearance of a dead body, you must allow, 
is not a pleasing spectacle, but when scalped it 1s 
shocking; two, in this situation, we met with, in 
our march from Skenesborough to Fort Edward. 
After so cruel an operation, you could hardly sup- 
pose any one could survive, but when we took pos- 
session of Ticonderoga, we found two poor fellows 
who lay wounded, that had been scalped in the 
skirmish the day before the Americans abandoned 
it, and who are in a fair way of recovery. I have 


238 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


seen a person who had been scalped, and was as 
hearty as ever, but his hair never grew again. 

Should I at any time be unfortunate enough to 
‘get wounded, and the Indians come across me, with 
an intention to scalp, it would be my wish to re- 
ceive at once a coup de grace with their tomahawk, 
which in most instances they mercifully allow. 

This instrument they make great use of in war, 
for in pursuing an enemy, if they find it impossible 
to come up with them, they with the utmost dex- 
terity throw, and seldom fail striking it into the 
skull or back of those they pursue, by that means 
arresting them in flight. The tomahawk is nothing 
more than a small hatchet, having either a sharp 
spike, or a cup for tobacco, affixed opposite to the 
part that is intended for cutting, but they are 
mostly made to answer two purposes, that of a pipe 
and a hatchet. When they purchase them of the 
traders, they take off the wooden handle, and sub- 
stitute in its stead a hollow cane one, which they 
do in a curious manner. 

I make no doubt but it will afford you great pleas- 
ure, knowing how much you are interested in my 
welfare, when I inform you that I have had some 
promotion, and it is the more satisfactory to my- 
self, as I am not removed out of the advanced 
corps, it being into the 24th regiment. If I escape 
this campaign, either through interest or purchase, 
there are hopes of obtaining a company. With my 
best wishes for your health and happiness, I am 

Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 239 


Peete LE ROX XX VPI 


Camp at Freeman’s Farm, Sept. 24, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


HE bridge of boats was soon constructed, and 
thirty days provision brought up for the 
whole army. On the 13th instant, we passed Hud- 
son’s river, and encamped in the plains of Saratoga, 
at which place there is a handsome and commodi- 
ous dwelling-house, with outhouses, an exceeding 
fine saw and grist-mill, and at a small distance a 
very neat church, with several houses round it, all 
of which are the property of General Schuyler. 
This beautiful spot was quite deserted, not a living 
creature on it. On the grounds were great quantities 
of fine wheat, as also Indian corn; the former was in- 
stantly cut down, threshed, carried to the mill to be 
ground, and delivered to the men to save our provi- 
sions; the latter was cut for forage for the horses. 
Thus a plantation, with large crops of several 
sorts of grain, thriving and beautiful in the morn- 
ing, was before night reduced to a scene of distress 
and poverty! What havoc and devastation is at- 
tendant on war! Your coffee-house acquaintance, 
who fight battles over a bottle of wine, and dictate 
what armies should do, were danger only to shew 
itself upon your coast, and threaten an invasion, 
would instantly, like the possessors of this delight- 
ful spot, be flying to the most interior parts of the 
kingdom. 


240 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


On the 15th the whole army made a move- 
ment forward, and encamped at a place called 
Dovacote. 

I omitted to mention a sad accident that hap- 
pened to that amiable woman, Lady Harriet Ack- 
land, a little before we passed Hudson’s river, 
which neither has altered her resolution nor her 
chearfulness, but she continues her progress, par- 
taking the fatigues of the advanced corps. 

Our situation, as being the advanced post of the 
army, was frequently so very alert, that we seldom 
slept out of our cloaths. In one of these situations a 
tent, in which Major Ackland and Lady Harriet 
were asleep, suddenly caught fire; the Major’s or- 
derly serjeant, with great danger of suffocation, 
dragged out the first person he got hold of, which 
was the Major. It providentially happened, that in 
the same instant Lady Harriet, without knowing 
what she did, and perhaps not perfectly awake, 
made her escape, by creeping under the walls in 
the back part of the tent, and upon recovering 
her senses, conceive what her feelings must be, 
when the first object she beheld was the Major, in 
the midst of the flames, in search of her! The ser- 
jeant again saved him, but the Major’s face and 
body was burnt in a very severe manner: every 
thing they had with them in the tent was consumed. 
This accident was occasioned by a favorite New- 
foundland dog, who being very restless, overset a 
table on which a candle was burning, (the Major al- 
ways had a light in his tent during the night, when 


THROUGH AMERICA 241 


our situation required it) and it rolling to the walls 
of the tent, instantly set them on fire. 

On the 17th the army renewed their march, re- 
pairing a great number of bridges, and encamped 
on a very advantageous ground, at the distance of 
about four miles from the enemy, who are strongly 
posted at Still-Water. 

At our last encampment a circumstance oc- 
curred, which though trifling in itself, marks how 
provident nature has been to the younger part of 
the brute creation. It is the custom in camp to 
picket the horses in the rear of the tents: in the 
night I was awaked with a great rustling of my tent 
cords, and a squeaking noise; on getting up, I found 
it was a little colt that my mare had foaled. When 
we resumed our march the next day, I was much 
embarrassed what to do with the colt, fearful it 
would weaken my mare, and render her unable to 
convey my baggage, but I would not have it de- 
stroyed; and, believe me, this little creature, only 
dropped the night before, though in a journey of 
such a distance as seventeen miles, through thick 
woods and bad roads, was as gay and chearful, 
when we arrived at our encampment, as if it had 
been in a meadow, after which, you may be sure, 
I could not find in my heart to make away 
with it. | 

On the 18th, the enemy appeared in force, to ob- 
struct the men who were repairing the bridges, and 
it was imagined they had a design of drawing us to 
action, in a spot where artillery could not be em- 


242 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


ployed; a small loss was sustained in skirmishing, 
and the repair of the bridges was effected. 

At this encampment a number of men got into a 
potatoe-field, and whilst gathering them, a scout- 
ing party of the enemy came across and fired on 
them, killing and wounding near thirty, when they 
might with ease have surrounded the whole party, 
and taken them prisoners. Such cruel and unjusti- 
fiable conduct can have no good tendency, while it 
serves greatly to increase hatred, and a thirst for 
revenge. 

On the 19th, the army marched to meet the 
enemy, in three divisions, the German line flanked 
the artillery and baggage, pursuing the course of 
the river through the meadows; the British line 
marched parallel to it at some distance, through 
the woods, forming the center division; whilst the 
advanced corps, with the grenadiers and light in- 
fantry of the Germans made a large circuit through 
the woods, and composed the right hand division; 
on our right there were flanking parties of Indians, 
Canadians and Provincials. 

The signal guns for all the columns to advance 
were fired between one and two o’clock, and after 
an hour’s march, the advanced party, consisting of 
the picquets of the center column, under the com- 
mand of Major Forbes, fell in with a considerable 
body of the enemy, posted in a house and behind 
fences, which they attacked, and after much firing, 
nearly drove in the body of the Americans, but the 
woods being filled with men, much annoyed the 


THROUGH AMERICA 243 


picquets, who were very fortunately supported by 
two companies of the 24th regiment, one of which 
happened to be our company, and a piece of artil- 
lery, which General Fraser had detached, on hear- 
ing the fire of Major Forbes’s party, and we came 
up just as the enemy fled. 

In this skirmish, a bat-man of General Fraser’s 
rescued from the Indians an officer of the Ameri- 
cans, one Captain Van Swearingham, of Colonel 
Morgan’s Virginia rifle-men; they were on the 
point of stripping him, which the man prevented, 
and recovered his pocket-book from them, contain- 
ing all his papers of consequence and his commis- 
sion. He offered the soldier all his paper dollars, 
and lamented he had no dard ones to reward him 
with. 7 

The bat-man brought him up to General Fraser 
(who now had come up to the two companies he 
had detached) when he interrogated him concern- 
ing the enemy, but could obtain no other answer, 
than that their army was commanded by Generals 
Gates and Arnold. General Fraser, exceedingly 
provoked that he could gain no intelligence, told 
him if he did not immediately inform him as to the 
exact situation of the enemy, he would hang him up 
directly; the officer, with the most undaunted firm- 
ness, replied, ‘“You may, if you please.” The 
General perceiving he could make nothing of him, 
rode off, leaving him in the custody of Lieutenant 
Dunbar, of the artillery. 

My servant, just at this period, arrived with my 


244 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


canteen, which was rather fortunate, as we stood in 
need of somerefreshment after our march through 
the woods, and this little skirmish. I requested 
Dunbar, with his prisoner, to partake of it, and sit- 
ting down upon a tree, we asked this Captain a va- 
riety of questions, to which he always gave evasive 
answers, and we both observed he was in great spir- 
its: at last I said to him, “Captain, do you think 
““we shall have any more work upon our hands to 
“day?” to which he replied, “ Yes, yes, you’ll have 
“business enough, for there are many hundreds all 
“round you now.” He had hardly spoke the words, 
than from a-wood a little way in our front there 
came an excessive heavy fire. Dunbar ran to his 
guns, saying A » you must take charge of the 
Captain. There being only one officer, besides my- 
self, with the company, I committed him to the 
custody of a serjeant, to convey him to the house 
where the rest of the prisoners were, with partic- 
ular orders, as the General had desired, that he 
should not be ill treated; I then hastened to my 
company, on joining of which I met a number of the 
men who were retiring wounded, and by this time 
the firing of the enemy was suppressed by the artil- 
lery. 

Shortly after this we heard a most tremendous 
firing upon our left, where we were attacked in 
great force, and the very first fire, your old friend, 
Lieutenant Don, of the 21st regiment, received a 
ball through his heart. I am sure it will never 
be erased from my memory; for when he was 





THROUGH AMERICA 246 


wounded, he sprung from the ground, nearly as 
high as a man. The party that had attacked us 
were again drove in by our cannon, but the fire 
raged most furiously on our left, and the enemy 
were marching to turn their right flank, when they 
met the advanced corps, posted in a wood, who re- 
pulsed them. From that time, which was about 
three o’clock, till after sun-set, the enemy, who 
were continually supplied with fresh troops, most 
vigorously attacked the British line: the stress lay 
upon the 20th, 21st, and 62d regiments, most part 
of which were engaged for near four hours, without 
intermission. The grenadiers and 24th regiment, 
as well as part of the light infantry, were at times 
engaged. In the conflict the advanced corps could 
only act partially and occasionally, as it was 
deemed unadviseable to evacuate the heights where 
they were advantageously posted. 

General Phillips, at a very critical period, when 
the British line was hard pressed, by a great supe- 
riority of fire, brought up four pieces of artillery, 
which restored the action, and gallantly led up to 
the 2oth regiment, at the utmost hazard of his 
person. 

General Riedesel exerted himself, brought up the 
Germans, and arrived in time to charge the enemy 
with great bravery. 

Just as the evening closed in, the enemy gave 
way on all sides and left us masters of the field, 
but darkness prevented a pursuit. 

The troops lay that night upon their arms, and 


246 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


the next day took a position nearly within cannon- 
shot of the enemy; we have fortified our right, and 
our left extends to the brow of the heights, so 
as to cover the meadows, by the river side, where 
the Jatteaux and hospitals are placed. The 47th 
regiment, with the regiments of Hesse Hanau, 
are encamped in the meadows, as a farther se- 
curity. 

The great valor displayed by the British troops 
encountering many obstructions, and such a power- 
ful enemy, as, from the account of the prisoners, 
they had nearly treble our numbers in the field, 
and the great advantage of receiving instant rein- 
forcements, must, in the eyes of. those who judge 
impartially, reflect the highest honor. 

Notwithstanding the glory of the day remains on 
our side, I am fearful the real advantages resulting 
from this hard-fought battle, will rest on that of 
the Americans, our army being so much weakened 
by this engagement, as not to be of sufficient 
strength to venture forth and improve the victory, 
which may, in the end, put a stop to our intended 
expedition; the only apparent benefit gained, is 
that we keep possession of the ground where the 
engagement began. | 

This severe-fought battle, and the consequences 
resulting from it, will fully confirm the arguments I 
pointed out to you relative to a rapid march. The 
victory must inevitably have been on the side of 
the Americans, without our artillery, and what a 
wretched state must the many brave soldiers be in, 


THROUGH AMERICA 247 


without any comfort, or an hospital to remove 
them to! 

The courage and obstinacy with which the Amer- 
icans fought, were the astonishment of every one, 
and we now become fully convinced, they are not 
that contemptible enemy we had hitherto imag- 
ined them, incapable of standing a regular engage- 
ment, and that they would only fight behind strong 
and powerful works. 

We have lost many brave men, and among that 
number is to be lamented Captain Jones, of the 
artillery, who was killed at his brigade of guns. The 
artillery of the army distinguished themselves 
greatly, but this brigade in particular, the officers 
and men stationed at those guns being all killed 
and wounded, except Lieutenant Hadden, who had 
a very narrow escape, his cap being shot away as 
he was spiking up the cannon. 

Having just received orders to attend a working- 
party, to throw up a redoubt, I am obliged to defer 
a further account of this engagement till my next. 
It will no doubt afford you much pleasure to hear, 
that in this severe action I have escaped unhurt. 

Yours, &c. 


248 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LETTER XXXIX 


Camp at Freeman’s Farm, Oct. 6, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

E have gained little more by our victory 

than honor, the Americans working with 
incessant labor to strengthen their left; their right 
is already unattackable. Instead of a disheartened 
and flying enemy, we have to encounter a numer- 
ous, and, as we lately experienced, a resolute one, 
equally disposed to maintain their ground as our- 
selves, and commanded by Generals whose activity 
leave no advantages unimproved. 

The day after our late engagement, I had as un- 
pleasant a duty as can fall to the lot of an officer, 
the command of the party sent out to bury the 
dead and bring in the wounded, and as we en- 
camped on the spot where the three British regi- 
ments had been engaged, they were very numerous. 
In a former letter I described to you the sensations 
both before and after a battle, but in such an em- 
ployment as this, the feelings are roused to the ut- 
most pitch. You that are pleased to compliment 
me on my humanity, will think what I must have 
felt, on seeing fifteen, sixteen, and twenty buried in 
one hole. I however observed a little more decency 
than some parties had done, who left heads, legs 
and arms above ground. No other distinction is 
paid to officer or soldier, than that the officers are 


THROUGH AMERICA 249 


put in a hole by themselves. Our army abounded 
with young officers, in the subaltern line, and in the 
course of this unpleasant duty, three of the 20th 
regiment were interred together, the age of the eld- 
est not exceeding seventeen. This friendly office to 
the dead, though it greatly affects the feelings, was 
nothing to the scene in bringing in the wounded; 
the one were past all pain, the other in the most ex- 
cruciating torments, sending forth dreadful groans. 
They had remained out all night, and from the loss 
of blood and want of nourishment, were upon the 
point of expiring with faintness: some of them 
begged they might lay and die, others again were 
insensible, some upon the least movement were put 
in the most horrid tortures, and all had near a mile 
to be conveyed to the hospitals; others at their last 
gasp, who for want of our timely assistance must 
have inevitably expired. These poor creatures, per- 
ishing with cold and weltering in their blood, dis- 
played such a scene, it must be a heart of adamant 
that could not be affected at it, even to a degree of 
weakness. | 

In the course of the last action, Lieutenant Her- 
vey, of the 62d, a youth of sixteen, and nephew to 
the Adjutant-General of the same name, received 
several wounds, and was repeatedly ordered off the 
field by Colonel Anstruther; but his heroic ardor 
would not allow him to quit the battle, while he 
could stand and see his brave lads fighting beside 
him. A ball striking one of his legs, his removal 
became absolutely necessary, and while they were 


250 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


conveying him away, another wounded him mor- 
tally. In this situation the Surgeon recommended 
him to take a powerful dose of opium, to avoid a 
seven or eight hours life of most exquisite torture: 
this he immediately consented to, and when the 
Colonel entered the tent with Major Harnage, who 
‘were both wounded, they asked whether he had 
any affairs they could settle for him? his reply was, 
“that being a minor, every thing was already ad- 
“justed;”’ but he had one request, which he had 
just’ life enough to utter, “Tell my uncle I died 
“like a soldier!”? Where. will you find in ancient 
Rome heroism superior! 

Beyond the ground where we defeated our en- 
emy, all is hostile and dangerous in an alarming de- 
gree; it should seem as if we had conquered only to 
preserve our reputation, for we have reaped little 
advantage from our invincible efforts; the only sat- 
isfaction resulting on our part is, the consciousness 
of having acquitted ourselves like men, with a deter- 
mination that the honor and renown of the Brit- 
ish arms should remain unsullied. The nature of 
the country is peculiarly unfavorable in respect to 
military operations, it being difficult to reconnoitre 
the enemy, and to obtain any intelligence to be re- 
lied on: the roads, the situation of the enemy, the 
grounds for procuring forage, of which the army is 
in great want, and all parties are in quest of, are 
often attended with the utmost danger, and re- 
quire great bodies to cover them. 


The expectation of plunder which had induced 


THROUGH AMERICA 251 


the Indians that remained to accompany us thus 
far, beginning now to fail, and seeing they have 
nothing but hardships and warfare, they are daily 
decreasing. They were of vast service in foraging 
and scouting parties, it being suited to their man- 
ner; they will not stand a regular engagement, 
either through the motives I formerly assigned, or 
from fear, but I am led to imagine the latter is the 
case, from the observation I have made of them in 
our late encounter with the enemy. The Indians 
were running from wood to wood, and just as our 
regiment had formed in the skirts of one, several 
of them came up, and by their signs were convers- 
ing about the severe fire on our right. Soon after 
the enemy attacked us, and the very first fire the 
Indians run off through the wood. 

As to the Canadians, little was to be depended on 
their adherence, being easily dispirited, with an in- 
clination to quit as soon as there was an appear- 
ance of danger; nor was the fidelity of the Provin- 
cials to be relied on who had Joined our army, as 
they withdrew on perceiving the resistance of the 
Americans would be more formidable than had 
been expected. 

The desertion of the Indians, Canadians, and 
Provincials, at a time when their services were most 
required, was exceedingly mortifying; and however 
it may prove, this instance, will shew future com- 
manders what little dependence is to be placed on 
such auxiliaries. 

You will readily allow that it is the highest test 


a52 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


of affection in a woman, to share with her husband 
the toils and hardships of the campaign, especially 
such an one as the present. What a trial of forti- 
tude the late action must have been, through a dis- 
tressing interval of long suspence! The ladies fol- 
lowed the route of the artillery and baggage, and 
when the action began, the Baroness Riedesel, 
Lady Harriet Ackland, and the wives of Major 
Harnage and Lieutenant Reynell, of the 62d regi- 
ment, entered a small uninhabited hut, but when 
the action became general and bloody, the Sur- 
geons took possession of it, being the most conven- 
ient for the first care of the wounded; in this situa- 
tion were these ladies four hours together, when 
the comfort they afforded each other was broke in 
upon, by Major Harnage being brought in to the 
Surgeons deeply wounded! What a blow must the 
next intelligence be, that informed them Lieutenant 
Reynell was killed! Madame de Riedesel and Lady 
Harriet could afford but little consolation to their 
companions, through an anxiousness they knew not 
how to smother, lest it might be soon, very soon, 
their own situation. The fears of Lady Harriet 
were doubly increased, having every apprehension, 
not only for her husband but her brother. 
Surrounded by the dead and the dying for four 
long hours, the groans of the wounded, the dis- 
charge of the musquetry, and all the bustle of arms 
— my God!— what a state for women of suscep- 
tibility! — uncertain how the battle would termi- 
nate, and whether each should clasp again the ob- 


THROUGH AMERICA 253 


ject of her dearest hopes, for whose sake had she 
traversed dreary regions, encountered hunger and 
weariness, and witnessed all the carnage of a long- 
disputed field — unanimated by the tumult, and 
without sharing the glory. 

A long war teaches the most unwarlike nation 
the use of arms, and very frequently puts them in a 
condition to repair in the end, the losses they sus- 
tained in the beginning. Such is the present state 
of the enemy, who not only now, but before the 
late action, were strongly recruited, as powerful 
armies of militia spring up in every province. What 
a striking advantage there was on the side of the 
Americans, in the last engagement; but the defect 
of numbers in our little army, was amply made up 
by the courage of the soldiers, the valor and con- 
duct of our Generals. 

The officers who have been killed and wounded 
in the late action, are much greater in proportion 
than that of the soldiers, which must be attributed 
to the great execution of the rifle-men, who directed 
their fire against them in particular; in every inter- 
val of smoke, they were sure to take off some, as the 
-rifle-men had posted themselves in high trees. 
Some of the prisoners who were taken late in the 
day, said, it was firmly believed in the enemy’s 
camp, that General Burgoyne was killed, which 
mistake was occasioned by an Aid-de-Camp of 
General Phillips, a Captain Green, who, having 
the furniture to his saddle laced and embroidered, 
and being wounded, fell from his horse, the rifle- 


264 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


man that wounded him, from that circumstance, 
affirmed it to be General Burgoyne. 

You would be led to imagine, that the Indians 
and Canadians would have been of great utility 
against this mode of fighting, but the few who re- 
mained of the former, could not be brought within 
sound of a rifle-shot; and the latter, who formerly 
were very expert in this service, either from a great 
change in their military character, or a damp 
that was thrown upon them by the loss of their 
best officers, who were under the necessity of ex- 
posing themselves more than was requisite, in 
order to bring them at all into action, were of 
little use. Some of the Provincial troops were serv- 
iceable, but the only men we had really to op- 
pose them were the German chasseurs, but their 
number was very inferior to the rifle-men of the 
enemy. ; 

Our present situation is far from being an inac-. 
tive one, the armies being so near, that not a night 
passes but there is firing, and continual attacks 
upon the advanced picquets, especially those of 
the Germans. It seems to be the plan of the enemy 
to harrass us by constant attacks, which they are 
enabled to do, without fatiguing their army, from 
the great superiority of their numbers. 

We are now become so habituated to fire, that 
the soldiers seem to be indifferent to it, and eat and 
sleep when it is very near them; the officers rest in 
their cloaths, and the field officers are up frequently 
in the night. The enemy, in front of our quarter- 


THROUGH AMERICA Dae 


guard, within hearing, are cutting trees and making 
works, and when I have had this guard, I have been 
visited by most of the field officers, to listen to 
them. You would scarcely believe it, but the en- 
emy had the assurance to bring down a small piece 
of cannon, to fire as their morning gun, so near to 
our quarter-guard, that the wadding rebounded 
against the works. 

We have within these few evenings, exclusive of 
other alarms, been under arms most of the night, as 
there has been a great noise, like the howling of 
dogs, upon the right of our encampment; it was 
imagined the enemy set it up to deceive us, while 
they were meditating some attack. The two first 
nights this noise was heard, General Fraser thought 
it to have been the dogs belonging to the officers, 
and an order was given for the dogs to be confined 
within the tents; any that were seen running about, 
the Prevost had orders to hang them. The next 
night the noise was much greater, when a detach- 
ment of Canadians and Provincials were sent out to 
reconnoitre, and it proved to have arisen from large 
droves of wolves that came after the dead bodies: 
they were similar to a pack of hounds, for one set- 
ting up a cry, they all joined, and when they ap- 
proached a corpse, their noise was hideous till they 
had scratched it up. 

I have sent you a view of the encampment of our 
hospital tents, park of artillery, &c. from a redoubt 
we have on the opposite side of the river, by which 
you may be able to form some idea of the country 


256 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


we are at present encamped on. This view was 
taken by Sir Francis Clerke, one of General Bur- 
goyne’s Aid-de-Camps, who has favored me with 


a copy. 
Yours, &c. 


THROUGH AMERICA 267 


Pate le toh Rex: L 


Cambridge, in New England, Nov. 10, 1777 
My DEAR FRIEND, 


HE dispatches sent by Lord Petersham, rela- 

tive to our misfortunes, will have reached 
England long before this comes to hand. Your sur- 
prize, then, will cease at receiving a letter dated 
from this place. As every little circumstance rela- 
tive to a campaign, cannot be given in an official 
account to be laid before the public, I shall relate 
the transactions of the army till the convention 
took place. 

The day after the date of my last letter, a detach- 
ment of 1§00 regular troops, with two twelve- 
pounders, two howitzers, and six six-pounders, 
went out between eleven and twelve o’clock. 
The reason, no doubt, for the General’s march- 
ing at this time, rather than earlier in the morn- 
ing, was, that in case we should not prove victo- 
rious, he had the night to favor his retreat. 

The intention of this detachment was to make a 
movement to the enemy’s left, not only to discover 
whether there was a possibility of forcing a passage, 
if necessary to advance, or dislodge the enemy, in 
order to favor a retreat, but likewise to cover the 
forage of the army, through the scarcity of which 
we were in great distress. This being a project of 
much importance, General Burgoyne took with him 


268 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


Generals Phillips, Riedesel and Fraser, as officers 
best qualified, and with whose assistance he had 
every hope the plan would succeed. The guard of 
the camp upon the heights was left to the command 
of Brigadier Generals Hamilton and Specht, and 
the redoubts and plain to Brigadier General Gall. 

This day having the quarter-guard of the regi- 
ment, I of course remained in camp, and therefore 
can give you no information as to the various posi- 
tions that were taken; after the detachment had 
been out some time, we heard a very heavy firing 
with the artillery, and some little skirmishing with 
small arms. 

At this time Major Campbell, of the 29th regi- 
ment, the Field-officer of the day, came to my 
guard, and desired me to go with a serjeant and 
some men, to reconnoitre across two ravines, in 
front of the guard, to listen if I could hear the en- 
emy marching that way; all was quiet in that 
quarter, but as the firing began to be very heavy on 
the left, I returned to the guard. In this little cir- 
cuit I was convinced how much the Americans were 
pushed in our late action, on the 19th of Septem- 
ber, for I met with several dead bodies belonging to 
the enemy, and amongst them were laying close to 
each other, two men and a woman, the latter of 
whom had her arms extended, and her hands grasp- 
ing cartridges. : 

Soon after my return to the guard, the firing ap- 
peared to become general on both sides, and very 
heavy indeed. Much about this time the bat-men 


THROUGH AMERICA 259 


of the army, who went out for forage, came gallop- 
ing into camp, having thrown off their forage to 
save their own horses and themselves by flight. 
The gallant behaviour of an old soldier, of the 20th 
regiment, deserves to be remembered; he had been 
wounded at the battle of Minden, and as he lay on 
the ground a French dragoon rode over him, and 
the horse’s feet rested on his breast; after having re- 
covered from this accident, he thought himself in- 
vulnerable, and held the Americans in great con- 
tempt: when they attacked the foraging party, the 
hardy old veteran, sitting upon the forage which he 
had got on the horse, kept loading and firing his 
piece at the enemy, and in this manner he brought 
his forage into camp. Upon his arrival, his master 
reprimanded him for the danger he had exposed 
both himself and his horses to, (when he said) 
“May it please your honor, I could not throw away 
“my forage, I’d sooner lose my life, than my poor 
‘horses should starve.” | 

You must allow this defeat of the bat-men, and a 
number of wounded men coming into camp, was no 
very favorable omen of success; nor can you con- 
ceive the sorrow visible on General Fraser’s being 
brought in wounded, your old friends Campbell and 
Johnston, of our regiment, on each side of his horse, 
supporting him. I cannot describe to you the 
scene; it was such that the imagination must help 
to paint. — The officers, all anxious and eagerly 
enquiring as to his wound — the down-cast look 
and melancholy that was visible to every one, as to 


- 260 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


his situation, and all the answer he could make to 
the many enquiries, was a shake of his head, expres- 
sive that it was all over with him. — So much was 
he beloved, that not only officers and soldiers, but 
all the women flocked round, solicitous for his fate. 

When he had reached his tent, and was recovered 
a little from the faintness occasioned by loss of 
blood, he told those around him, that he saw the 
man who shot him, he was a rifle-man, and up in 
a tree; the ball entered a little below his breast, and 
penetrated just below the back bone. After the 
Surgeon had dressed his wound, he said to him very 
composedly, “‘Tell me, Sone, to the best of your 
“skill and judgment, if you think my wound is 
“mortal.” When he replied, ‘“‘I am sorry, Sir, to in- 
“form you, that it is, and that you cannot possibly 
“live four and twenty hours.” He then called for 
pen and ink, and after making his will, and dis- 
tributing a few little tokens of regard to the officers 
of his suite, desired that he might be removed to 
the general hospital. 

In camp, and not in personal danger, as the nina 
is left to reflection, it is impossible to describe how 
much it is affected in beholding the wounded con- 
tinually coming in, amid an incessant roar of cannon 
and musquetry, where perhaps many brave fellows 
are dying for their country — perhaps too in an un- 
successful battle! I can never consent to be left in 
camp again. 

After many hours impatient anxiety, towards 
the close of the evening, the grand stroke came. I 


THROUGH AMERICA 261 


had little hope to become a partaker in the action; 
but about that time the troops came pouring into 
camp as fast as they could, and shortly after Gen- 
erals Burgoyne, Phillips and Riedesel. It is impos- 
sible to describe the anxiousness depicted in the 
countenance of General Burgoyne, who immedi- 
ately rode up to the quarter-guards, and when he 
came to that of our regiment, I was across a ravine, 
posting a serjeant’s guard. Upon enquiring eagerly 
for the officer, I came to him. “‘Sir,” said the General, 
“you must defend this post to the very last man.” 
You may easily conceive, upon receiving those or- 
ders, I judged every thing to be in a dangerous sit- 
uation. There was not a moment for thought, for 
the Americans stormed with great fury the post of 
the light-infantry, under the command of Lord 
Balcarres, rushing close to the lines, under a severe 
fire of grape-shot and small arms. This post was 
defended with great spirit, and the enemy, led on 
by General Arnold, as gallantly assaulted the 
works; but on the General’s being wounded, the en- 
emy were repulsed, which was not till after dark. 
In this attack, I was but an observer, as our quar- 
ter-guard was some distance from the lines, but not 
sufficiently so as to be out of danger, as the balls 
were continually dropping down amongst us. In 
order that you may form some idea with what ob- 
stinacy the enemy assaulted the lines, from the 
commencement, at which time it was dark, till 
they were repulsed, there was a continual sheet of 
fire along the lines, and in this attack we were fully 


262 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


convinced of what essential service our artillery 
was. 

During the time the enemy were so vigorously 
attacking our lines, a party assaulted those of the 
Germans, commanded by Colonel Breyman, but 
either for want of courage, or presence of mind, 
they, upon the first attack of the enemy, were 
struck with such a terror, that instead of gallantly 
sustaining their lines, they looked on all as lost, and 
after firing one volley, hastily abandoned them; 
that brave officer, Colonel Breyman, in endeavour- 
ing to rally his soldiers, was unfortunately killed. 
By the enemy’s obtaining possession of the Ger- 
man lines, they gained an opening upon our right 
and rear. 

In this engagement we lost many brave officers, 
to add to the fate of General Fraser, General Bur- 
goyne’s Aid-de-Camp, Sir Francis Clerke, was 
killed, Colonel Ackland wounded and a prisoner, 
Major Williams, Captain Blomfield, and Lieuten- 
ant Howarth, of the artillery, were likewise prison- 
ers, the latter wounded; Major Blomfield’s wound 
was very remarkable, a shot passing through both 
cheeks, without hurting the inside of his mouth, 
Your friend Howarth’s wound I hear, is in his knee; — 
it is very singular, but he was prepossessed with an 
idea of being wounded, for when the orders came 
for the detachment’s going out, he was playing pic- 
quet with me, and after reading the orders, and 
that his brigade of guns were to go, he said to me, 
“God bless you A——, fare well, for I know not 


THROUGH AMERICA 263 


“how it is, but I have strange presentiment that I 
“shall either be killed or wounded.” I was rather 
surprized at such an expression, as he is of a gay 
and chearful disposition, and cannot but say, that 
during the little time I could bestow in reflection 
that day, I continually dwelt upon his remark, but 
he is now happily in a fair way of recovery. 

After Major Ackland was wounded, when he ob- 
served the army were retreating, he requested Cap- 
tain Simpson, of the 31st regiment, who was an in- 
timate friend, to help him into camp, upon which, 
being a very stout man, he conveyed the Major on 
his back a considerable way, when the enemy pur- 
suing so rapidly, he was obliged to leave him be- 
hind to save himself. As the Major lay on the 
ground, he cried out to the men who were running 
by him, that he would give fifty guineas to any sol- 
dier who would convey him into camp. A stout 
grenadier instantly took him on his back, and was 
hastening into camp, when they were overtaken by 
the enemy and made prisoners. Here you must 
naturally conceive what were the feelings of Lady 
Harriet, who, after hearing the whole of the action, 
at last received the shock of her individual misfor- 
tune, mixed with the general calamity of the defeat. 

Whatever favorable opinion the General had en- 
tertained of our late encampment, after this attack 
he thought our flank liable to be turned, and it 
would be impossible to accomplish an honorable re- 
treat, fearing the only security of the army would 
consist in an ignominious flight, as our works would 


264 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


by no means resist cannon-shot. Before we quitted 
them, we heard the enemy bringing up their artil- 
lery, no doubt with a view to attack us at day- 
break; therefore, laboring under these apparent 
disadvantages, we had orders to quit our present 
situation during the night, and take post upon the 
heights, above the hospital; by this movement the 
whole of the army were now assembled upon the 
heights and plain, of which you have a view in 
the drawing I sent you. 

Our late movement, which was effected without 
any loss, occasioned the enemy to make a new dis- 
position, and on the 8th of October, the baggage 
and incumbrances of the army being removed, we 
offered battle, anxious for a conflict in a plain, 
where we could discern our enemy, as hitherto all 
our actions had been in the woods, where it is im- 
possible exactly to prescribe to an army, or sepa- 
rate body, how to govern itself; every different mo- 
tion of the enemy, and the various accounts a Gen- 
eral receives of them, ought to make him alter his 
measures, and there is no laying down to a com- 
manding officer of any corps, other than general 
rules, the rest depending on his own conduct, and 
the behaviour of his troops. , 

At one time we fully imagined it was the inten- 
tion of the enemy to have attacked us, as a very 
large body, consisting of several brigades, drew up 
in line of battle, with artillery; and began to can- 
nonade us. In return, an howitzer was fired, and, 
as was intended, the shell fell short, upon which 


THROUGH AMERICA 265 


the enemy setting up a great shout, were very much 
encouraged, and kept on cannonading. The next 
time the howitzer was so elevated, that the shell 
fell into the very center of a large column, and im- 
mediately burst, which so dismayed them, that 
they fled off into the woods, and shewed no other 
intentions of an attack; indeed their cautious con- 
duct during the whole day strongly marked a disin- 
clination to a general action. 

Early on this morning General Fraser breathed 
his last, and at his particular request, was buried, 
without any parade, in the great redoubt, by the 
soldiers of his own corps. About sun-set, the corpse 
was carried up the hill; the procession was in view 
of both armies; as it passed by Generals Burgoyne, 
Phillips and Riedesel, they were struck at the plain 
simplicity of the parade, being only attended by 
the officers of his suite; but lest the army, not being 
acquainted with the privacy that was desired, 
should construe it into neglect, and urged by a 
natural wish to pay the last honors to him, in 
the eyes of the whole army, they joined the pro- 
cession. 

The enemy, with an inhumanity peculiar to 
Americans, cannonaded the procession as it passed, 
and during the service over the grave. The ac- 
count given me by your friend Lieut. Freeman was, 
that there appeared an expressive mixture of sen- 
sibility and indignation upon every countenance — 
the scene must have been affecting. 

In the evening intelligence was brought that the 


266 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


enemy were marching to turn our right; we could 
prevent this by no other means than retreating to- 
wards Saratoga. A retreat is a matter of the highest 
consequence, and requires the greatest conduct in a 
General, as well as resolution in both officers and 
soldiers, for the least mismanagement puts all into 
confusion. A good retreat is looked on as the chef 
d euvre of a Commander. Every one of the ad- 
vanced corps felt severely the loss of General Fra- 
ser, as he used frequently to say, that if the army 
had the misfortune to retreat, he would ensure, 
with the advanced corps, to bring it off in safety; 
this was a piece of Generalship he was not a little 
vain of, for during the war in Germany, he made 
good his retreat with five hundred chasseurs, in 
sight of the French army. But as covering the 
retreat of the army was of the utmost consequence, 
General Phillips took the command of the rear- 
guard, which consisted of the advanced corps. 
At nine o’clock at night the army began to move, 
General Riedesel commanding the van-guard. Our 
retreat was made within musquet-shot of the en- 
emy, and though greatly encumbered with bag- 
gage, without a single loss. It was near eleven 
o’clock before the rear-guard marched, and for 
near an hour, we every moment expected to be 
attacked, for the enemy had formed on the same 
spot as in the morning; we could discern this by 
the lanterns that the officers had in their hands, 
and their riding about in the front of their line, but 
though the Americans put their army in motion 


THROUGH AMERICA 267 


that night, they did not pursue us, in our retreat, 
till late the next day. Deferring the sequel of our 
misfortunes till another opportunity, and willing to 
embrace a very favorable one that now presents 
itself of sending this, I remain, 

Yours, &c. 


268 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


LE TOLER gx 


Cambridge, in New England, Nov. 15, 1777 

My DEAR FRIEND, 

FTER a march, in which we were liable to be 

attacked in front, flank and rear, the army, 
on the gth, at daybreak, reached an advantageous 
ground, and took a position very desirable to have 
received the enemy; we halted to refresh the troops, 
and to give time for the datteaux to come abreast of 
the army. A few days provision was delivered out, 
and it was apprehended it might be the last, for 
though the movement of the army kept pace with 
the datteaux, still there were many parts of the 
river where they might have been attacked to great 
advantage, and where the army could afford them 
little protection. 

After the troops had been refreshed, and the dat- 
teaux came up, the army proceeded forward, in 
very severe weather, and thro’ exceeding bad 
roads, and late at night arrived at Saratoga, in such 
a state of fatigue, that the men had not strength or 
inclination to cut wood and make fires, but rather 
sought sleep in their wet cloaths and on the wet 
ground, under a heavy rain that still continued, 
and which began to fall when we first retreated. 

The incessant rain during our retreat was rather 
a favorable circumstance, for though it impeded 
the army in their march, and increased its difficul- 


THROUGH AMERICA 269 


ties, it served at the same time to retard, and in a 
great measure prevented, the pursuit of the enemy; 
it however occasioned one very unhappy necessity, 
that of abandoning our hospitals with the sick and 
wounded: but great praise is due to the humanity of 
General Gates, for upon the very first intelligence 
of it, he immediately sent forward a few light horse, 
to protect them from insult and plunder. 

The heavy rain afforded another consolation to 
the men during the march, which was, in case the 
enemy had attacked us, the fate of the day would 
have rested solely upon the bayonet: this idea pre- 
vailed so strongly in the minds of the men, that 
notwithstanding they were acquainted with the su- 
periority of the enemy, an attack seemed to be the 
wish of every soldier. 

When the army were about to move after we 
halted, the cares and anxieties with which the Gen- 
eral, no doubt, must have been surrounded, were 
greatly increased by a circumstance of private dis- 
tress, for at this time a message was delivered to 
him from that amiable woman, Lady Harriet Ack- 
land, expressing an earnest desire, if it did not mili- 
tate against the General’s wishes, of passing to the 
camp of the enemy, and requesting General Gates’s 
permission to attend her husband, at the same time 
submitting it entirely to the General’s opinion. 

The General, although he had been fully con- 
vinced of the patience and fortitude with which she 
had already encountered the many trying situa- 
tions that had befallen her, could not but express 


270 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


his astonishment at this proposal, as it appeared an 
effort beyond human nature, that a woman of such 
a tender and delicate frame as her’s, should be ca- 
pable of such an undertaking as that of delivering 
herself to the enemy — probably in the night, and 
uncertain of what hands she might fall into — es- 
pecially after so long an agitation of the spirits, not 
only exhausted by want of rest, but absolutely | 
want of food, and drenched in rains for near twelve 
hours — and this at a time too, when far advanced 
in a state where every tender care and precaution 
becomes absolutely requisite! — In the harrassed 
and fatigued situation she was in, it was no little 
chagrin to the General, that he could afford her no 
assistance to cheer up her spirits for such an under- 
taking; he had not even a cup of wine to offer her 
— but from a soldier’s wife she obtained a little 
rum and dirty water! With this poor refreshment 
she set out in an open boat, which was furnished by 
the General, with a few lines of recommendation to 
General Gates, for his protection. The Chaplain 
that officiated at General Fraser’s funeral under- 
took to accompany her, and with her waiting-maid, 
and the Major’s valet de chambre (who then had a 
ball in his shoulder, which he received in the late 
action, in searching for the Major after he was 
wounded) she rowed down the river to meet the 
enemy. — But to return to the army. 

It was not till after day-light, on the morning 
of the roth, that the artillery and the last of the 
troops passed the Fish-Kill, and took position upon 


THROUGH AMERICA 271 


the heights and in the redoubts we had formerly 
constructed. On our arrival at Saratoga, a corps of 
the enemy, between five and six hundred, were dis- 
covered throwing up intrenchments on the heights, 
but upon our approach retired over the ford of the 
Hudson’s river, and joined a body posted to oppose 
our passage there. 

A detachment of artificers, under a strong escort, 
were sent to repair bridges, and open a road on the 
west sideof theriver to Fort Edward; but theenemy 
being strongly posted on the heights of the Fish- 
Kill, and making a disposition to give us battle, 
that escort was recalled. The Provincials who were 
left to cover the artificers, upon a very slight attack 
ran away, leaving them to escape as they could, 
without a possibility of their performing any work. 

While these different movements were carrying 
on, the datteaux with provisions were frequently 
fired upon from the opposite side of the river, some 

of them were lost, and several men killed and 
wounded in those that remained. 

On the 11th the enemy continued the attacks 
upon the datteaux, several were taken and retaken, 
but their situation being nearer to the main force of 
the enemy than to ours, it was judged necessary 
to land the provisions, and send them up the hill, 
as it was impossible to secure them by any other 
means: this was effected under a heavy fire, and 
with the greatest difficulty. 

The intentions of the enemy became now very 
apparent, and no doubt General Gates thought he 


272 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


should be able to gain more advantage from the sit- 
uation and circumstances of our army, by cutting 
off our provisions, and otherwise harrassing and 
distressing us, by the galling fire of the riflemen, 
who were every where placed about in the woods, 
than by giving us battle, and running the chance of 
a victory. 

The possible means of farther retreat were con- 
sidered in a council of war, composed of the Gen- 
eral officers; and the only one that seemed expedi- 
ent, or in the least practicable, was attended with 
such danger, as afforded little hopes of success, but 
nevertheless the resolve was it should be attempted. 
This was by a night march to Fort Edward, the 
troops carrying their provisions on their backs, 
leaving artillery, baggage, and other incumbrances - 
behind, and to force a passage at the ford, either 
above or below that fort. 

While the army were preparing for this bold and 
resolute undertaking, some scouts returned with 
intelligence, that the enemy were strongly in- 
trenched opposite those fords, and possessed a 
camp in force on the high grounds, between Fort 
Edward and Fort George, with cannon; exclusive 
of which, they had parties down the whole shore to 
watch our motions, and some posts so near us, on 
our side of the water, that it was impossible the 
army could make the least motion without being 
discovered. 

Notwithstanding the number of the Americans, 
which was hourly increasing, General Gates acted 


THROUGH AMERICA 273 


with as much precaution as if the superiority was 
on our side, as the ground where he encamped was, 
from its nature and the works he Nes thrown up, 
inattackable. 

Our march to Fort Edward being eh prevented, 
the army was posted as well as the ground would 
admit of, fortifying our camp, and preparing for 
any attempt that the enemy, from our reduced 
state, might be induced to make. 

The state and situation of our army was truly 
calamitous! — Worn down by a series of incessant 
toils and stubborn actions; abandoned in our ut- 
most distress by the Indians; weakened by the de- 
sertion, and disappointed as to the efficacy of the 
Canadians and Provincials, by their timidity; the 
regular troops reduced, by the late heavy losses of 
many of our best men and distinguished officers, to 
only 3500 effective men, of which number there 
were not quite 2000 British: — in this state of weak- 
ness, no possibility of retreat, our provisions nearly 
exhausted, and invested by an army of four times 
our number, that almost encircled us, who would 
not attack us from a knowledge of our situation, 
and whose works could not be assaulted in any part. 
In this perilous situation the men lay continually 
upon their arms, the enemy incessantly cannonad- 
ing us, and their rifle and cannon shot reaching 
every part of our camp. 

True courage submits with great difficulty to de- 
spair, and in the midst of all those dangers and ar- 
duous trials, the valor and constancy of the British 


274 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


troops were astonishing: they still retained their 
spirits, in hopes that either the long-expected relief 
would arrive from New-York, which the army im- 
plicitly believed, from an order that had been given 
out at our camp at Still-Water, stating that power- 
ful armies were to act in co-operation with ours, or 
that the enemy would attack us, which was most 
fervently wished for, as it would have given us an 
opportunity of dying gallantly, or extricating our- 
selves with honor. 

After waiting the whole of the 13th day of Octo- 
ber, in anxious expectation of what it would pro- 
duce, and to which time it had been resolved to 
endure all extremities in maintaining our ground 
against the enemy — no prospect of assistance ap- 
pearing, and no rational ground of hope remaining, 
it was thought proper, in the evening, to take an ex- 
act account of the provisions left, which amounted 
to no more than three days short allowance. 

In this state of distress, a council of war was 
called, to which all the Generals, Field-officers, 
and commanding-officers of corps were summoned, 
when it was unanimously agreed, that in the pres- 
ent circumstances we could do no other than treat 
with the enemy. 

Overtures were accordingly proposed to General 
Gates, who harshly rejected them, reminding us 
of our enervated state, from a toilsome campaign, 
diminished numbers, scanty subsistence, and the 
impossibility of fresh supply. These reasons were 
urged on the spur of the moment, minute consider- 


THROUGH AMERICA 276 


ation denied, and a decisive answer required. We 
felt their force, but compliance was never thought 
of, it would have too severely wounded the dignity 
of our military character. 

The refusal of our overtures was mortifying in 
the extreme, yet instead of depressing, it raised our 
magnanimity; the interval of suspence, indeed, dis- 
turbed our repose; anxiety was awake to conse- 
quences — still we adhered to our purpose with 
manly firmness. A state of suspence, to a reflecting 
mind, is worse than death; that was our state till 
the convention was finally adjusted. | 

The obstacles to the accomplishment of the con- 
vention at first appeared insurmountable, for Gen- 
eral Gates conceived that our complicated embar- 
rassments sufficiently justified him, according to 
the rules of war, in insisting on an unconditional 
surrender of the army: they were disdainfully re- 
jected, and he was peremptorily informed, that 
notwithstanding our reduced numbers, if he still 
persisted, our final appeal should be to the sword, 
as the British troops would rush upon the enemy, 
determined to give no quarter. 

General Gates, from having been once in our serv- 
ice, was fully convinced of what exertions British 
troops were capable, in any dangerous emergency; 
he was therefore quickly sensible of the impolicy of 
coercion, and with very great prudence declined 
hazarding a fresh conflict with men who preferred 
death to a disgraceful submission. Awed by our 
firmness, he retracted his demands, and honorable 


276 INTERIOR TRAVELS 


terms were granted; the particulars, as they are 
undoubtedly in the Gazette, I shall of course pass 
over. , 3 
To a reverse of fortune we yielded with becoming 
dignity, but our honor was safe, and equanimity of 
temper marked our character, even in adversity. 
General Burgoyne has done every thing in this 
convention for the good of the troops, consistent 
with the service of his King and country: all that 
wisdom, valor, and a’strict sense of honor could 
suggest. Confident, no doubt, of having exerted 
himself with indefatigable spirit in their service, he 
will despise popular clamor, truly sensible that no 
perfect and unbiassed judge of actual service can 
condemn him. Addison has somewhere observed, 


“°Tis not in mortals to command success!” 


And as the populace, in this versatile age startle 
at untoward events, so our General is liable to be 
exposed to public censure. Ample justice must 
raise him in the mind of every liberal man who will 
judge with caution, acquit him with honor, and 
take him to his heart as the soldier’s friend — as a 
man of cool judgment, but ardent for glory — as 
courageous but unfortunate! 


END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 











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